[greddm]

Previous owner put in a new stereo but it’s unusable due to the loud hum which seems to plague aftermarket systems. I used to install stereos in a past life so I thought it would be a piece of cake to pull it out and check grounds, etc. I was very wrong, the wiring is a complete mess!

I’ve searched a bunch of threads and I still can’t find a wiring diagram for the factory stereo. Even some pics would be great. If I was starting with a stock system this wouldn’t be a problem but since it’s hacked up I need a starting point.

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[rangerovering]

The grey cable is for the speakers, on the factory setup it would run to an amplifier in the boot on top of the subwoofer. Perhaps this hasn’t been bypassed and a high level signal is going through the map which is designed for low level signals?

There will be a black cable with I think a black and a red/yellow cable which is the subwoofer signal

The rest should be for the power supply. All this lot would have been fitted with standard iso plugs at one time, the speakers and sub were on a 10 pin iso plug


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[greddm]

Thanks! The amp is still intact, so between that and the information you provided, I should be able to get everything sorted out.


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[rangerovering]

While I remember the sub has an amp as well, the little silver box Next to the bigger black one, in case you are trying to wire it back in as well


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[95classiclwb]

contact crutchfield, they have the adaptor needed, I have installed aftermarket head units on all my rovers, 95 classic, 00 d2 and 00 p38. no noises at all using this adaptor.

 

[greddm]

I’ve got the adapter on the way. I was just thrown off because the harness had been cut off the gray bundle. That’s not to say I’m not going to have a load of questions when I piece it back together!


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[RRToadHall]

The 95 RAVE has pretty comprehensive schematic for the end of run Diversity system with CD amp and subwoofer. It also has connector pin outs drawings.

 

[greddm]

The 95 RAVE has pretty comprehensive schematic for the end of run Diversity system with CD amp and subwoofer. It also has connector pin outs drawings.

I have the manual in PDF format. Is that the same thing as the RAVE? I don’t see any schematics in the PDF.


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[RRToadHall]

You must have an abbreviated version then. Does yours include the electrical trouble shooting manual? If not there is a stickie at the top of this forum for RAVE download. Pick the first link.

 

[greddm]

RRToadHall, I’m still not seeing that diagram. I downloaded the RAVE again and as far as I can see it’s the same PDF I already have. Any way you could post a screenshot?


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[greddm]

I found the 1995 RRC Electrical Troubleshoot Guide, but in looking at the stereo diagrams it doesn't match up with what i'm seeing in the car. There are 3 trim levels diagramed - low, mid, high. I have the high level. For one, it shows that only the subs are driven by the amplifier, but the amp in my truck clearly has the 4 inputs from the head unit (with the common ground), and then standard speaker/ground pair wire going out to each of the speakers. Which brings me to the next discrepancy which is that the speaker wire colors also do not match what is in the guide. Were there changes in the very late 1995 models that is not being represented by this guide?

 

[greddm]

Ugh. I wish I was able to delete posts. I realized the section I was looking at was the wrong one - I needed the NAS/Japan section (label is confusing to me).

 

[RRToadHall]

Were there changes in the very late 1995 models that is not being represented by this guide?

No. The "1995 on" manual is the last of the changes made to production Classics for the NAS market. What is the production date for your classic?

 

[grnole]

Hi - i know the hum you are battling very well. It will come and go depending on what components you add to the system, what components you subtract, and how you handle the grounding and powering of the speakers. I hate to say it but in many cases the crutch field adapter may not get rid of the hum.

To try to give you a little bit of exp from my turns - ill give you a little background, on how i handed my 95.

Truck came to me with pop-out clarion unit installed, looked like a best buy install. Speakers were pretty much shot, original amp still in place, and factory subwoofer was installed. Whoever did the install cut into the factory wiring and wired in RCAs into the factory wiring to plug into the clarion.

Iteration 1 - i changed out the speakers... had a dramatic improvement in sound, but now subwoofer was really shot.
Iteration 2 - I added in a self contained amplified sub off the clarion and removed factory sub, kept factory amp. Heres where the Hum came back and did not leave, even when disconnecting the new sub, hum still there. The ONLY way to stop it was to add a 4 channel isolator... i got it off a company called monoprice. Worked like a charm!
Iteration 3 - I hated the clarion. decided to remove it clean up the rats nest of wiring, and i wanted apple car play so I added in a pioneer flip out. Now even the isolator did not stop the hum, i ran all new power and ground wires directly to the HU and still no luck. I finally broke down and said F it, i eliminated the factory 20+ year old harmon kardon amp and ran direct speaker wire to the doors and rear. Problem solved, hum gone.

I really like the clear sound of new updated components. Unfortunately my center dash did not survive, had to make one work from a D2 and a dremmel. Its fine... good enough for me. Be careful with yours.

 

[greddm]

Great information, thanks! I'm currently weighing these exact options. I have some equipment I pulled out of my last car, but I just don't know if it's worth the effort for this truck. They don't seem conducive to good audio due to how loud they are on the interior (mine at least is very noisy). I think at this point I will replace the trashed factory speakers and then see how the sound stacks up from there. I'll also add in the noise isolators, which seems like it should take care of the problem.

As for the common ground leads that run from the stereo to the amplifier (yellow, red, blue, green) - Do you know which ones are front left, front right, back left, back right? I'm looking at the electrical guide and it doesn't seem to say.

 

[greddm]

Also a before and after of the wire harness after I cleaned it up. Still waiting for the noise filters to finish the rest.

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[grnole]

As for the common ground leads that run from the stereo to the amplifier (yellow, red, blue, green) - Do you know which ones are front left, front right, back left, back right? I'm looking at the electrical guide and it doesn't seem to say.

So, from the radio to the amp, there are no leads that go to the speakers. the wiring to the speakers comes from the amplifier in the rear of the truck. Which is why I chose to rewire it.

 

[RRToadHall]

What you describe is the top of the line system for 1995. The head unit is for picking stations or another source. It has the controls for balance and fade, treble, bass and sub and of course balance. All of this is input to the amplifier that sends signals to the various speakers and sub. It was considered too complex by BMW when they purchased Land Rover from British Aerospace in 1994. The design was scrapped for a more basic system with amps in doors and an amp for the sub. CD was an option in most markets. Of course BMW then start using the end of run 95 sound system in their cars. After car phones and GPS navigation became more common a new generation of the central amp was reintroduced it back into Range Rovers as the DSP system.

 

[greddm]

So, from the radio to the amp, there are no leads that go to the speakers. the wiring to the speakers comes from the amplifier in the rear of the truck. Which is why I chose to rewire it.

I get that, but in order for balance and fade to work the leads to the amp would need to output a signal for each quadrant. Same as using RCAs with a regular amp. So it would make sense that those 4 wires would be that signal.


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[greddm]

What you describe is the top of the line system for 1995. The head unit is for picking stations or another source. It has the controls for balance and fade, treble, bass and sub and of course balance. All of this is input to the amplifier that sends signals to the various speakers and sub. It was considered too complex by BMW when they purchased Land Rover from British Aerospace in 1994. The design was scrapped for a more basic system with amps in doors and an amp for the sub. CD was an option in most markets. Of course BMW then start using the end of run 95 sound system in their cars. After car phones and GPS navigation became more common a new generation of the central amp was reintroduced it back into Range Rovers as the DSP system.

Interesting details, but I don’t see how it applies here?


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