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I've got a 1995 LWB that I've been trying to get running well enough to use as mu commuter in the winter when the Defender heating just doesn't do the job.

The vehicle does this: Start from cold, drives for about 3 miles when the temp is just coming up to normal, if this happens while you pull to a stop, the vehicle will die and won't start. It will crank like out of gas for 5 to 15 minutes, then it will crank and come alive. It seemed to me like the computer must be getting bad signals and that it doesn't know what to do when the vehicle comes up to operating temps. That transition seems to be freaking it out.

So I drove it for two weeks by first letting it warm up to full operating temps in the driveway, then it runs like normal.

But then it started dying even when I did that. It would drive 6-8 miles, then die, not come back to life, just crank, then start.

By the way, this is after new coil, plugs, leads, and distributor have been installed to try to address this issue. Including three new ignition modules, and a fuel pump that is working.

So I borrowed a known-to-be-working 14CUX to try to swap in this weekend. But just before I did that someone mentioned that their vehicle had been doing the same thing until they replaced the coolant temp sender for the CPU. To test this theory, I unplugged the sender unit and started driving the vehicle as normal, without any warmup. This seems to have done the trick! I'm happy! Until.........

Because I have this 14CUX computer sitting here that I can borrow for a few days, I decided to just see what would happen if... But... wait..... there is no CPU installed. The plug connector under the right hand seat is not connected to anything. The 14CUX black box that I expected to be there is not installed at all on this vehicle. What is also strange is that I'm actually getting a code on the diagnostics display that shows that I have a bad temp sender. Well, yeah, it's disconnected.

Call me baffled. The car runs fine. In fact, I'm going to do one more test run today, then I'll do another tomorrow. This will be my fifth run from cold start since unplugging the temp sender.

Baffled.
 

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That's because your 14cux ECM is not below the seat. On the 1995 RRC it is located behind the RH footwell kick panel, higher up toward the glovebox.

283976
 

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I thought it was somewhere else
Just wasn’t sure where to say it was
Cool
 

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Just something else to look at. I had a very similar experience with my 95 LWB. Went through all ignition components, fuel pump, injectors, fuel pressure regulator and ECU. What ended up being the issue was the distributor rotor. I had a riveted type rotor installed. The conductor element that transmits the current from the center coil terminal to the individual cylinder terminals is sometimes attached to the plastic rotor assembly with a rivet. When the rivet is installed it can cause micro cracking in the plastic rotor assembly and allow a path for the electricity to flow through the distributor shaft and ground through the engine. The issue is usually exacerbated when the engine warms up and the plastic rotor expands and those cracks widen and allow the electricity to flow. This is further supported by your experience of waiting 5-15 minutes which allows the rotor to cool and those cracks to close. There is a bonded type Genuine Parts rotor that you need and can usually be sourced through reputable parts suppliers such as Rovers North. It is worth a call to their customer service to have them confirm they have bonded type rotors in stock. After I installed this rotor the truck ran perfect. I spent several hundred dollars troubleshooting my truck which in the end led me to a $25 part. Something to consider if you haven't already.
 
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