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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1995 Range Rover County 3.9 and I want to fit a new distributor. Do I try and find an original or is there a good aftermarket one that can be recommended?

The ignition module is remote.

Thanks
 

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Got to Atlantic British website
Look up distributor for the 95 etc
It will give you the part number
Go from there
 

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Thats 95 rrc
 

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Err5209
Not as easy to find as I thought
I found it on ebay
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you. I was wondering about a couple of the Lucas 35D replacements and if anyone has any experience of the them. Do you know if anything changed on the 1995 model year, the ERR5209 is the Discovery version and different to the one in the Range Rover parts manual though i can not see why it should be any different to the unit in the Range Rover.
 

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Thank you. I was wondering about a couple of the Lucas 35D replacements and if anyone has any experience of the them. Do you know if anything changed on the 1995 model year, the ERR5209 is the Discovery version and different to the one in the Range Rover parts manual though i can not see why it should be any different to the unit in the Range Rover.
main difference between 95 and prior years is that in 95 the ignition module was relocated away from distributor to the left side of the radiator on quarter support panel.
err5209 will physically fit but because of the fitting of the ignition module it will not work. the proper dizzy for the 95 only model has not been available for a while, there are other options for replacement but you need to do your research.
what make you think you need a distributor?, Davis Unified Ignition is an excellent unit, mallory is another great contender or you could go distributor less coil conversion.
 

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Apart from connections etc the unit should be pretty much the same. There is the question about the advance curves etc, but in reality I am not sure how much of a difference this makes. The available documentation from LR is a little course and sketchy which is to be expected of a mechanical devise.

There are a lot of aftermarket replacements out there which are identical to the original Lucas unit. What I did (for my 1984) was to get a period correct used ebay item and overhaul with bits I had from cheap replacement units. I got the impression from measuring that the original Lucas unit provided more speed advance, but in reality I have not seen any difference in fuel consumption or response.

The DUI distributor suggested by classiconly4me is the American answer to unreliable ignition systems from the 70s and 80s which was drop in and reliable and power as well. I am sure it works great and I assume they tune it to your engine (weights and springs), but from looking at it you would need to buy a new lead set as well since the connections look different.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have ordered the Powerspark Distributor from the UK with the remote module kit. The distributor that came off the RR was the ERR5209, i am assuming it was the original as the build date was 01/95.

I will update the thread once it has arrived and is installed. This is the only part of the ignition that has not recently been replaced which was the only reason i didnt take the distributor-less systems. The car had recently randomly refused to start, it turns over really well but refuses to start. The first time this happened it started when we jumped started it but this time nothing seems to solve it. We have redone the leak down tests, it has new spark plugs, leads, ignition module, rotor arm, distributor cap and idle air control valve, all of the parts are genuine so not cheap. I found a few threads of people with exactly the same issues but only one person who posted their final solution that didn't involved a tank of fuel and a match! Their issue turned out to be the plate inside the distributor which is about the same cost as a new distributor.
 

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the dizzy has been the same since the first electronic ignition V8s

some 95s have the IAM under the coil and others on the dizzy
 

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That DUI replacement does looks good doesn't it.

I know the feeling generally about original Lucas kit but have never had anything else to work with. I feel they need to have resistance leads on them to work effectively as opposed to having the lowest resistance rating given by some HT choices.

Out of interest on the non start, presumably you do have observable spark getting to plugs?

If you do, then try it by pulling the fuel pump fuse, cranking it with throttle held wide open and see if you get any response. If you get a couple of sputters, then put fuse back in and crank it without touching throttle.

If the plugs are wetted, it'll give you hours of fun with non starting.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The new distributor was fitted today and....nothing! The car will still not start. There is a spark from the coil to the distributor but nothing there after. The original cap and rotor was then put back on, nothing. Tried a different coil lead and nothing. In the morning we are checking the timing once more. The distributor cap, rotor, leads and plugs were all changed when the ignition module was changed a few months ago. Interestingly when I ordered all those parts after the module failed whilst driving along I ordered all genuine parts, when the module was switched for the one that came with the new distributor today it was noted the one 'genuine' from Atlantic British did have Lucas on it as the new one today has.

The car will simple not start. It ran, parked it now nothing.
 

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If you have a spark from the coil, then the ignition is definitely working in regard to triggering and switching the coil.

If it only gets as far as the distributor cap, then it must be going to earth there. Obvious suspect is the rotor, there's been many problems with these reported on here, so worth not discounting. You can have a handful of them all inoperable as the quality appears to vary hugely with some currently produced.

As a double check, connect one of the plug leads to the coil directly and see what spark you get from testing it with one of the plugs taken from the engine. This'll take into account the circuit resistance from cap onwards.

As a rough and ready test, crank it when it's really dark and just look around all the HT leads to see if anything obvious is sparking.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
We reset the timing today and now it starts. The lead from the coil (the HT leads are only a few months old and expensive) was broken on the connection so we changed it back to the old Bosch cable. The idle air valve was stuffed to, put in a GM equivalent and now it works!

The car feels way more responsive than before, at least it does at the moment. Give it time and something else will stop the car!

The distributor was a good unit, well worth it.
 
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