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Discussion Starter #1
Its probably too soon to make a judgement call on which way to proceed...

I picked up a 94 today. Been sitting for 10 years in a driveway. Engine is locked up and I found extensive rust in the passenger floorboard and some in the passenger footwell. The passenger side was wet under the carpet, so I removed the insulation so it could dry out. All the wood trim is cracked/delaminated and peels of in large chunks. The vehicle has approximately 145K miles and supposedly has a bad steering unit for which it has sat for so long.

The paint is pretty much gone but the body is in good condition. There is some rust on the upper tailgate window and may be okay. The lower tailgate looks to be in good shape. As far as the engine, it won't turn over with a new battery, so I'm going to remove the spark plugs and squirt some oil in there and see if it will loosen up.

I don't know a single thing about Range Rovers. Its my first one for which I paid a princely sum of $200 USD. Cost me another $60 to get it towed to my home and $100 for a new battery. So far, I'm into this project for a total of $350USD.

I'm going to need help, although I don't know with what just quite yet as I've only spent a couple of hours inspecting it once I got it home. I need to remove the console so I can remove all of the carpet and insulation to determine the scope of the rust damage. This will probably be the deciding factor.

The engine being locked up doesn't bother me. I've built several engines so I'm not bothered by this one.

This is my 1st post, so I don't know if I have to have a certain number of posts before I can put up pictures, but as soon as I can I will.
 

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Well if you do keep it and get it running
You will have something awsome to drive on those great north Alabama mountains
Once upon a time I spent lots of time around the scottsboro area
Good luck with your Rover
 

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Welcone to the forum.

Sat me as you with the engine, plugs out, release oil of favourite type into bores and see if you can get it to turn. You could try a big strap wrench on front crank pully and put your foot against it sticking out below vehicle and guage response.

Steering box (main unit) is not hard to remove/refit but they are costly to replace. So you're looking for one pulled from a wreck to control costs. Faults are initially leaking oil, more significant is to get someone to rock steering wheel and put your finger next to input and successively the output arm to check for bearing movement. I

Judging the body. Start by looking at ALL the mount points that locate it to the chassis. It's where the sheet metal mount interfaces with the body shell that will cause you problems. If many or all are corroded it may give you terminal decision to that body shell. That's the most critical with trunk floor, rear arches internal, and as you've described, the front footwells falling into line after that. Decent assessment of this will tell you pretty soon which way the decision is pointing.

Brakes we'll get to after the above.
Have fun.
 

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Between locked up engine and rust and inevitable other issues (not mentioning cosmetics) this will not be a budget rebuild. Unlike 'domestic' cars parts are not as readily available in the US or in general. If you enjoy the journey of restoration go for it, if your patience and finances are stretched think again.

The locked engine is particularly a concern. I have been restoring RRC that sat for 20 years in a garage, the low mileage engine was free but there was some inevitable condensation in the bores. I rehoned the surface and installed new rings, but some black scoring and pitting was still visible in the bores. Although the engine runs fine with good compression my oil consumption is not great, not really a problem as I only do about 3000-5000 miles a year. Engines are delicate things and if you are looking at adding some significant miles a stuck engine is not a greatest start of your journey.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the concern guys! Appreciate it. I've got a long way to go and plenty of time to explore. 1st order of business is to remove the console and seats so I can get the carpet up and inspect the rust situation.

Wish me luck!
 

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I got mine from a farm field where it had been sitting intermittently for ~6 years with occasional starting and driving just to keep it semi fresh. The rust was bad in the footwells, but if you are handy with a welder you can do a lot. You can buy just about every repair panel you need.
For parts, getting them from UK suppliers is significantly cheaper than buying stateside.
It sounds like you are mechanically competent. It wont be an easy task, but its feasible. Very rewarding bringing something back from the dead in my opinion. If the interior is really bad, you can chop the roof and make a nice little convertible or pickup/ute.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I started pulling the plugs on the motor to determine why its locked up. I used a borescope on the passenger side. The tops of the pistons look okay as far as I can tell. The drivers side is a different story. The 1st plug on the driver side is badly corroded and the top of the piston is heavily corroded. This may account for the engine seizing problem. I still have to remove the remaining plug on the driver's side to ascertain cylinder bore/piston damage.

Still trying to remove front seats and console to determine extent of rust situation. Seats don't move with a new battery. Could be fuses, but I don't have a manual to look these things up, yet. I believe there is a reference online so I need to check on that. It is looking more and more like this could be a part out. I don't want to be premature yet, but its not looking good...
 

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The enthusiast in me says fix it because I hate to see these end up in the junkyard. The pragmatist in me knows that many parts are expensive or hard to find and can really add up fast.

I would also consider the mileage, wheelbase, and interior other than the wood in the decision. While expensive, the wood is actually one of the easier items to fix as it can be re-veneered even if it is in really bad shape.
 

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I would base it on the extent of the rust & if you have good welding skills. Everything else is more or less easily fixed or replaced.
For rust, check the sills, rear crossmember, rear wheel arches, and all body mount points... also rear cargo area.

There is a sticky with a link to the manuals. I do not think there is a specific one for 94 but the others will be close enough for now.

Good luck!
 

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To move the seats
Unplug seat from under seat
Long blue plug
Apply 12 volt. + / - to the pins across from each other to move the motors in one direction
Reverse + / - to make motors go in opposite
Direction
If you don’t have the rave here are some clues
 

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The 94 fuses and relays are a little different
But Mostly the same
You can google it and find them also
With the soft dash is probably has more in common with the discovery
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Mikieman - Appreciate the help and the references! Just what I needed. Thanks to you ALL! I will report on how things look in the coming day or two. Once I get past my 3 post count, it won't take so long to reply to this thread as I am still under the moderators control...


Hey, look at that! I'm no longer under the mods control! Great! Now I can update with pictures..:p
 

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I will also just say one thing
I grew up with shade tree back yard mechanics
They would get a car truck motorcycle
With locked motors
They would pull the plugs and add some kind of penetrating oil
Usual of there own concoction
But it would loosen the motor
And they would drive theses thing for years
So if the motor is screwed they had nothing to loose
Just my two cents
This is a penetrating oil I use
It at Lowe’s
I would try it before I pulled the motor apart like I was a part of power nation
Good luck with your treasure
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Engine is no longer seized. It took its toll on a new battery, so its back on the charger again. I pulled all the plugs and sprayed generous amounts of penetrating lubricant in each bore over a period of 3 days. Each time I tried it, it would move about 10 degrees. Finally it began to turn over with the rear drivers side throwing out alot a rust concoction. I suspect there may be a coolant breach, but too soon to know for sure at this point.

I will need to check the gas tank and remove any gas in there as what is in there is at least 10 years old. Then I have to buy some new plugs and see if it will start. Not holding out much hope at this point, though...
 

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Bringing this beast back to life will be very rewarding. Breaking is such a shame and only really the way forward if the chassis is shot. Anything else is relatively easy if you have the time and tools.

I had a similar purchase 4 years ago. Instead of messing around I chose to completely strip the vehicle insides all out except the lower dash and steering col. Out went seats, carpets, sound insulation, trunk floor (shot), and door cards etc. Stripped off all lights bumpers and external trims. Headlining out. Nothing thrown away. This gave me a total view of what I was really dealing with. It also allowed multiple jobs to be done on one go instead of 'discovering' new jobs as I went. Underneath took out gearbox (stuck in third) and sourced a replacement for £300.00. Axles were fine. Hub seals and brake pads / discs all round. Ancillaries all stripped out of the engine bay and refurbed / replaced over time on a learn as you go basis. Luckily I had a non abs non air con last of the hard dash. New ignition system with remote located amplifier. New sensors except lambdas which I can't get out of the exhaust and appear ok anyway. Luckily I had a running engine with good compression so no real issues with the heads etc. New brake servo due to diaphram leak. did my own brake lines (never done before but so easy).

Retimed and puuring like a pussy cat.

Resprayed her myself - got some orange peel so will need to 2000grit that out at some point. Refurbed the wheels myself. None of the tarting up pretty stuff is rocket science.

Without a doubt the best thing for me was having a good sized garage - without somewhere warm and dry I just would not have bothered.

A random selection of photos from my journey in no particular order.

IMG_2819.jpg IMG_3744.jpg View attachment DSC_0011.jpg View attachment DSC_0009.jpg View attachment DSC_0010.jpg IMG_3576.jpg IMG_3026.jpg IMG_3575.jpg

Good luck Sir.
 

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If you need a rewarding project and have the time and resources do it. I happen to think 94 with a regular wheelbase is the best rangey ever made. But I'm partial.... and always looking for a parts car ;). I agree with RRLondon.... check the integrity of all metal first to decide... unless you are going to make a frankenstein crawler or similar. Whatever you do, make sure it's fueled by fun.
 

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Gentleman - I have sold this vehicle to someone that can fully appreciate the vehicle and bring it back to life. He picked it up yesterday and is genuinely excited to get it running as he has wanted one since before he was old enough to have one. Before I let it go, I believe I got it to a point to where he can hopefully get it running with not too much trouble. After freeing up the engine, I pulled the fuel pump, which had mostly disintegrated due to sitting in a couple gallons of gas for the past 10 years. I emptied out most of the old gasoline (yuck), so it needs a final cleaning and a new pump as well as a new filter and a thorough cleaning of the fuel system and injectors before the new owner can try to get it started.

I eventually came to my senses and quickly realized that I wouldn't be able to leave well enough alone. I would have stripped the interior and pulled the body off the chassis and turned this in to a multi year project and I simply didn't want to invest that kind of time and effort into it. So, the decision to part with it now made the most sense to me and like I said, it went to someone that is genuinely happy and interested in getting it back onto the road. I want to thank all of you for your input, help, and encouragement. I am confident that as the new owner comes online here that you will show him the same camaraderie you have shown me.
 

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There's certainly many different points at which you'd wish to be involved with one of these, as you say though, once started they probably drag you in further than initially appreciated.

At least you've rescued this one, set it on it's way to recommissioned status, and sounds like you've found an "employee" for it to enjoy its future. That's a good story.

Warning, that itch will probably be back at some point as you look around and see others using them, you've not got away from ownership just yet ;)
 
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