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Howdy. I've just come back from a test drive with a 1993 RangeRover Classic and want to begin my due diligence before purchase. Here is a list of the known issues with this RRC. In no particular order:

Sunroof: does not work/leaks in heavy rain. If I understand things right, the leak is common if the drain has become clogged. The motor may need new bushings or replacement, but the owner assures me that it was working fine until it stopped (not hanging as though there were a physical fault with the retraction gears, etc).

Clonks (right spelling?) when shifting into drive in high (didn't hear anything in low). This I also understand to be a common issue with the truck. How hard is it to fix?

Heater Core leaked: On this year model, how big a deal is it to get into the dash and fix this. I may jury rig something to defrost the windshield until I can get in there if Its a big job. If so, and you've done same, please advise.

No AC: boo hoo? I'm living in NC and not planning to take a trip to the Mojave, but could this be a symptom of something more serious if the AC is totally dead? Just trying to be thorough here.

Right side exhaust Manifold gasket leaks: oil is your friend, but not when it sprays. I've priced one of these over $70 and would like to know what parts stores you guys use when finding stuff yourselves. That seems...a little high to me.

Loud tick in the engine: we assume it is the exhaust manifold, but it could be valves. Please advise.

Running on 7 cylinders: This, and the ticking that is probably a part of it, is my biggest concern. Could be spark plug, could be oil on said spark plug keeping it from firing, could be...a lot of things, actually. Is there a common issue where this engine would be skipping; where would I start troubleshooting?

I have been unable to find a replacement 318 Buick engine for this truck. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I would like to price such an option at least. I'm leaning towards repair, but I want an engine swap option to remain open rather than inheriting someone elses' rebuild problems. If replacement of with original is not possible or feasible, is there a common conversion that people do for these trucks? I'm not buying a show car here; I don't mind if its got a Toyo under the hood if it gets me where I'm going.

Electrical on a vehicle like this is going to be an...ongoing restoration project, shall we say? Are there any common issues that I should be aware of to hit with a little preventative maintenance?

Any other information you wish to throw my way would be greatly appreciated. Until we get the noise from the engine cleared, that's all I could tell. If I decide to grab this thing, I'll repost (and probably add a few pics) with more information.

Thanks in advance.

"-"
 

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how much for the rangie? miles? color? tires wearing evenly? freeway shimmy? interior in good shape? ie headliner? parts are not cheap for these vehicles but there isnt anything too complicated that it can not be fixed. motor noise sucks though... could just be a lifter, rocker arm, or worse case scenario a burnt valve... let us know what else you find out...
 

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miles: less than 175K, don't remember the exact number. We know the owner so trust him not to have tinkered with the odo.

No noticeable shimmy at 55; thats as high as I got it on backroads and to be honest I was paying more attention to the engine. Interesting note; it has springs. Steering was tighter than I expected, and responsive in cornering.

Interior is in bad shape in some places. Back seats and front passenger look good if a little dirty, as is carpet and trunk space. headliner fabric has had it, foam feels good, however(will probably just tack it up for now and replace it myself; scrape off the poly and put in all new). driver's side upholstery is cracked and under a seat cover, seat itself was comfortable otherwise. Dash has no cracks :dance: . Wood trim is in a rough state but I can strip it down and refinish it. All doors open and close well, all windows work (except sunroof). Driver's side door has new handle. Radio does not work.

Rust free where I could inspect it (besides the walkaround and checking doors/hinges I got under it too).

Tires are good/like new, tread is even. They're not stock, a little fat. Will probably swap to skinnies when able.

Price is 900USD. Its green.

I think, with a new/rebuilt engine, it would be solid. Rebuilding it is not my preference; my experience is that once they're shot, they're shot. With it being the biggest, most immediate problem, I am hoping a swap is feasible.
 

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G'day, welcome to the forum.

Clonks (right spelling?) when shifting into drive in high (didn't hear anything in low). This I also understand to be a common issue with the truck. How hard is it to fix?
Could possibly be a loose/worn transfer chain. Mine has always done it, probably always will.


Heater Core leaked: On this year model, how big a deal is it to get into the dash and fix this. I may jury rig something to defrost the windshield until I can get in there if Its a big job. If so, and you've done same, please advise.
Never done it, dash is different to mine. Quite time consuming by other peoples accounts (ie; "Rover designed the heater core and then went on to finish the rest of the vehicle around it...").


No AC: boo hoo? I'm living in NC and not planning to take a trip to the Mojave, but could this be a symptom of something more serious if the AC is totally dead? Just trying to be thorough here.
Can't help really. Could be any number of things, we do have a A/C specialist on here so you might get more sense from him. If not, a normal A/C specialist would be the go.


Right side exhaust Manifold gasket leaks: oil is your friend, but not when it sprays. I've priced one of these over $70 and would like to know what parts stores you guys use when finding stuff yourselves. That seems...a little high to me.

Loud tick in the engine: we assume it is the exhaust manifold, but it could be valves. Please advise.

Running on 7 cylinders: This, and the ticking that is probably a part of it, is my biggest concern. Could be spark plug, could be oil on said spark plug keeping it from firing, could be...a lot of things, actually. Is there a common issue where this engine would be skipping; where would I start troubleshooting?
This is obviously the main issue(s). If you could give us some more exact details if you know them. Is the plug actually fouling with oil or is it just firing on 7 with a tick? Exhaust manifold could be cracked or it could just need new gaskets and bolts tightening.
The engine missing on a cylinder is more of a concern. As you are doing, budgeting for replacing or rebuilding is wise. From what i have found Rover/Buick rebuit/remanufactured engines seem quite expensive, relatively speaking.
The most common conversion seems to be Chev V8, but other people might know of others.

I can't comment on the price. It's a bargain compared to over here, but totally different market and all
 
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93 classics are, to my mind, the pinnacle of Rover off road vehicles.

Heater Core leaked: On this year model, how big a deal is it to get into the dash and fix this. I may jury rig something to defrost the windshield until I can get in there if Its a big job. If so, and you've done same, please advise.
Deal killer #1. You must completely remove the dash, requiring a complete teardown of the front passenger area. Not a small job by any measure.

AC is totally dead?
Probably not, just in disrepair.

Right side exhaust Manifold gasket leaks: oil is your friend, but not when it sprays. I've priced one of these over $70 and would like to know what parts stores you guys use when finding stuff yourselves. That seems...a little high to me.
Use the stainless steel sandwich type. There are two per side. I think they are about 10 bucks each. Rovers North, Atlantic British, DAP, etc.

Loud tick in the engine: we assume it is the exhaust manifold, but it could be valves. Please advise.
Deal killer #2. If it is a rod knock, the engine is a total write off. Install a ten buck gasket first and see what happens.

Running on 7 cylinders: This, and the ticking that is probably a part of it, is my biggest concern. Could be spark plug, could be oil on said spark plug keeping it from firing, could be...a lot of things, actually. Is there a common issue where this engine would be skipping; where would I start troubleshooting?
Deal killer #3 Engine should be very smooth with good power. Hope it's just a bad plug, injector or plug wire. 4.2L innards are impossible to find. Really. Best plan is a replacement 4.6 from a later P38.

I have been unable to find a replacement 318 Buick engine for this truck. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I would like to price such an option at least. I'm leaning towards repair, but I want an engine swap option to remain open rather than inheriting someone elses' rebuild problems. If replacement of with original is not possible or feasible, is there a common conversion that people do for these trucks? I'm not buying a show car here; I don't mind if its got a Toyo under the hood if it gets me where I'm going.
Since there ain't no Buick 318 it'll be hard to find one. You may be thinking Buick 215, but that's such a different animal that it will not work in the RR. As mentioned, best alternative is a later Rover 4.6.

Electrical on a vehicle like this is going to be an...ongoing restoration project, shall we say? Are there any common issues that I should be aware of to hit with a little preventative maintenance?
Issue #1 is rust. If there is any it is deal killer #4. One it gets in, it is impossible to undo it. Electrical issues are frequent and often troublesome to overcome. Be warned.
Old Rovers are money pits, no question. Your purchase price merely gets you in the door. From here on there will be one ting after another and each thing will be costly. Hope you do your own work since shops will really ream you on work on older Rovers. Other major issues are the cooling system, the suspension bushings, air suspension if fitted, rusting tailgate, drooping headliner, leaking steering box, CV joints in font axle, and those darned bumper end caps.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, I had a friend do a carfax report for me; other than an accident on the right side about 15 years ago, nothing jumps out.

Back to the deal breaker I know of: I'll install the $10 gasket and see if that removes the knock first. I live smack in the middle of Chevy Country so finding a smallblock V8 will not be a problem. Glad to hear (frankly) that they mate well enough for conversion consideration. More information on this would be appreciated; 327 small blocks are a dime a dozen down here but I'd like to get the one that mates the best. Is there a conversion kit for one or am I going to be spending my Sunday's bent over a grinder for the next couple months?

Rust: other than some spots on the front where paint has chipped off, I saw none. I understand there is an issue where steel meets aluminum, but I couldn't see any spots when I got under there, which surprised the heck outa me.

Remove the dash to get at the heater core = PITA. But doable. It can't be harder than spending six hours upside down and twisted over a 924S driver's seat (half the time using the steering wheel as a handhold to draw myself up in an upsidedown pullup) to get at the bolts holding the brake booster. Now THAT is something they made first and built the rest of the car around!
 
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Small block Chevy will not fit. There is an adapter kit out there, but the engineering of the motor mounts, exhaust, etc makes it far too much trouble. A Rover 4.6L is the absolute best way to go. You can find them in Discovery 2, P38 Range Rovers.

The adapter Rufant mentions is sold in OZ, not in the USA, and getting one will be a pain. IF you can get hold of one, you still have to reengineer everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Very interesting alternative...and right here at RR.net:

http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/e ... assic.html

I'd love a diesel 4x4. dunno about isuzu engines though, never owned one.

Finally found a few RR engines that aren't trying to devour my wallet whole:

http://www.roverlandparts.com/range-rov ... plete.aspx

$1,900 for a used 3.9 litre. They have some 4.6l's in the 3k range too.

And knowing that I can get a replacement at a reasonable price, say hello to a new range rover classic owner.
 

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But if you're prepared to spend $900 buying it and another couple of thousand on an engine, why not just spend more on a better one? One that doesn't need a heater core and on which the A/C works?
 

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Danny said:
But if you're prepared to spend $900 buying it and another couple of thousand on an engine, why not just spend more on a better one? One that doesn't need a heater core and on which the A/C works?
a good question:

Why buy this range rover? Overriding factors for my final decision:

1: its local. this is a big factor in deciding to buy this range rover.

2: we know the owner and the circumstances under which it has spent the last several years of its life.

3: Its rust free. My research suggests that this is a "big deal' with these vehicles. Frankly, finding any rust free 16 year old AWD truck is a surprise. Finding one where aluminum and steel meet with regularity is providence.

4: Its loaded. its got some considerable factory extras (brush and lamp guards, trailer hitch, roof rack, cd changer, etc) that, used, would cost more than the value of the vehicle to put on there. All told, I could easily double the cost of the vehicle by searching and buying these extras.

5: And the eternal pragmatist comes out. Because these parts are selling (and remember 3--this fellow is rust free) for well over the asking price used on most parts sites I've searched, I can part it out for a profit :naughty:

If I blew 3k+ on a better range rover today, I'd be watching its value depreciate tomorrow. With this thing, I could actually put dollars in my pocket. This is, ofc, the worst case, project-went-down-in-flames scenario.

After a proper shakedown, I'll know if its worth putting 2 to 3 thousand more dollars into it. After a ten dollar gasket {thanks o2batsea} and some spark plugs, I'll know if I need to :thumb: Thanks to forums like this, I think this thing has a high probability of restoration
 
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the gaskets in question....http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ERR6733.cfm

If I blew 3k+ on a better range rover today, I'd be watching its value depreciate tomorrow. With this thing, I could actually put dollars in my pocket. This is, ofc, the worst case, project-went-down-in-flames scenario.
When gas gets back to four bucks a gallon you won't be able to give it away, even in parts.
 

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I tell people who want to buy one of mine a nice one should cost $3500-$5000 once complete, thats been my experiance, also its nice to have a parts car ,if possible. Used motors go for $700 with 100,000 mi., swap is 2 or 3 day job. Heater core, blower motor, resistor, takes 2 or 3 days also, full 90 page instructions are available on Atlantic British website, as you will see this job is extensive, you will remove entire dash, but can be done if you're patient. Clunking could also be rear differential or u-joints, both easy repairs. My thinking is if a Rover is rust free and not beat up or abused, and has been maintained its worth a $1000. If you like working on cars, this is the car for you.
 
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