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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Good Afternnon,

I am in the process of getting my 1993 LWB in tip top shape. It has been setting idle for 6 months or more. The local Mechanic says I need a new fuel pump based on the fact that it runs shortly then cuts off as well as the fuel gauge does work (it hasn't since I've owned it 9 years). Anything else I might look for, the fuel relay under the drivers side seat (how do I reset it?)
Any advise will be appreciated. And I will post photos shortly.

Thanks
Gary Ritter
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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44 Posts
Hey Gary. I'm pretty sure the fuel pump relay and fuse are under the passengers seat, and I don't think it something that can be reset. I've had that happen to me on two different 93 LWBs, and the cause was the same both times. In my cases, it was the wiring both times... and in the same spot. The wiring for the pump and the gauge runs over the top of the tank to the drivers side, and down to the frame rail. My wires became brittle, then corroded, right where the wiring goes vertical. I'm not saying this is your problem, but it's something to consider.
"Runs shortly then cuts off" could be a few things, including a weak pump that can't satisfy the fuel pressure switch linked to the ignition. How long is shortly? 5 seconds or 5 minutes?
"Fuel gauge doesn't work" could be as simple as a bad install of pump/float, or something more problematic like bad wiring or a cluster failure.
As much as the fuel pumps have come down in price over the last two decades, I would definitely replace it.

*Here's a discovery I made when I lost a fuel pump outside of Tensleep Wyoming.. which is roughly a gazillion miles from a rover dealer, or an overnight delivery. A fuel pump from a '93 V8 ford explorer has the exact same specs and design as our rovers. The only difference is the size of the electrical connector spade at the pump motor, which can easily be changed. You have to separate the pump assembly to get to the pump motor, but with some care, it can be done without damaging the assembly.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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321 Posts
Is it also really difficult to start? If so, then I agree that you should look into a new fuel pump. With the symptom you provided: "runs shortly then cuts off " , I'd look more towards the idle air bypass valve, MAF, and TPS

The gauge not working is directly related to either wiring or the sending unit.. maybe you're just low on fuel? :)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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1,413 Posts
Good Afternnon,

I am in the process of getting my 1993 LWB in tip top shape. It has been setting idle for 6 months or more. The local Mechanic says I need a new fuel pump based on the fact that it runs shortly then cuts off as well as the fuel gauge does work (it hasn't since I've owned it 9 years). Anything else I might look for, the fuel relay under the drivers side seat (how do I reset it?)
Any advise will be appreciated. And I will post photos shortly.

Thanks
Gary Ritter
has your mechanic plumbed a fuel pressure gauge for a proper diagnosis? relay cannot be reset. when was the last time you replaced the fuel filter?
 

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If it IS the fuel pump, I just went thru this replacement and asked a few questions here on this forum earlier this year. Mine displayed the classic symptoms, first cutting out at high rpm, then lower rpm, then I could barely drive across the yard, and it just sounded/felt fuel-starved. Relying on what a mechanic says who has no real skin in the game can be dicey when deciding what is actually wrong.

But regarding the pump, filter, and relay: Mine is a '93 LWB also, and I bought a new relay, filter, and pump. My filter may havebeen original, and my pump DEFINITELY was the original with 175k miles on it. Idiscovered that the original pump plug configuration was no longer available,and the new pump needed a jumper harness from the vehicle harness to the new pump.The thing that caused my days/weeks of delay was that the new pump/harness hadno place for the old grounding jumper to go….and I looked on-line and searchedendlessly to find a write-up of what to do with this loose ground wire.

The truck would NOT START with the new pump, relay, andfilter installed. I checked the relay, and was almost going to buy a used ECU,thinking that was what was causing the whole problem, until I actually found awiring diagram and began checking continuity of wires to the pump.
It turned out that the “jumper harness” was WIRED WRONG formy truck. It had power from the truck’s harness going to the guage lead on thepump, and guage power going to the pump motor or some un-workable variation. SoI had to cut the jumper harness and re-attach the wires to their correct lead,and VOILA! The truck ran again.
The relay was always good, and the filter might have beengood, but now it’s ALL GOOD.
The extra grounding jumper? It merely ran to the frame abovethe driver’s rear wheel (stupid place to put a ground), and was not even usedwith the new pump.
 
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