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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've recently had the following new parts fitted to my 1993 LWB, which is now on 180k - four Monroe shocks, Monroe steering damper, new front wheel bearings, new swivel seals and new front ARB links. Before this, it drove very well but was a bit crashy over bumps - the new shocks have improved the ride, but it has now developed the dreaded steering wobble over certain combinations of bumps at speed. Shocks aside, everything is factory-stock and it's still on air.

It seems that something must have been disturbed during the fitting of the new parts - any suggestions as what to check? Everything obvious appears tight, nothing is obviously worn out and there's no noticeable bearing play.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Alignment not done (and it drives perfectly straight, no pulling - as previously) - I was wondering if the swivel preload may have been altered in the process of changing the large swivel seals (they were put in whole, not by cuitting them).
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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You should check the swivel preload, but make sure you check the RAVE for your MY specs.


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I chased this problem around on my RR until I realised although I could feel the shake through the steering there was really no oscillations coming to the steering wheel.
Then had a really bad shake induced by a bump in the road and during this realised it was the front axle virtually jack hammering up and down. I did absolutely nothing but change the front shocks for some Bilstiens I had and the shake disappeared completely, not even a trace left, nothing.
You can now drive it at any speed with nothing but perfect smooth ride and steering.
 

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New shocks only mask an issue, not repair it. It's like the folks that swear their new steering damper tightened up their entire suspension... it has never happened. Time to closely inspect bushings, drop link, steering box, steering shaft etc... along with the previously mentioned preload.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm assuming it's preload as it didn't happen before with old shocks, bearings and links - surprised it (whatever "it" is) causes such strong steering shake.
 

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Another from the great re-paster. hope it helps you.

DIY: alignment swivel pin bearing preload? posted by Victor Vassiliev on 04/11/2004 19:43:50:
I use a tape measure with the vehicle pointing straight ahead to do the alignment. I set it at 1/8" or so of tow in. (Distance between the front tires is 1/8 shorter than rears). be sure to pick the same lug on the tire and this is only to get you close. I would pay someone to do it if I were you.
Anyway, preload has been discussed quite a bit on the board but I assuming you already tried a search and had no luck.
This is just the basics so be sure to refer to the manual for clarity.
Preorder an assortment of preload shims and swivel grease (or gear oil)from RN.
Jack up front.Remove tires, Remove tie rod ends from swivel housing.The swivel will probably be loose now. Using a scale (fishing scale), put the hook in the hole where the tie rod was. Pull the swivel to measure the resistance. You are looking for about 12-16 pounds after the initial inertia. Its probably lower if your vibbing. Using a oil pan to catch the oil, remove the two bolts that are holding the swivel pin on top of the housing. Remove a shim or two and tighten it back up snug. Remeasure. Add/Remove shims until you get in the ballpark. If you cant get 12lbs and you have removed all the shims, then you probably need to replace the swivel bearings and rebuild the swivels too. (I could only get one to 5lbs after removing all the shims. Im running it but I know it is on borrowed time) At any rate, get them as close as you can on both sides. If it is too tight it will not center correctly. Also I would toss a OME stablizer on it to help matters in the future. Well worth the money in my opinion. Make sure to fill the swivels too! Anyway, it is not that bad. Gordo.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the above.

Thinking out loud - the swivel seals were changed by removing each swivel ball complete with its hub/disc/swivel housing/driveshafts, then slotting the lot back in. What could this affect that could cause the steering shake?
 

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So the steering shake, is the steering wheel actually wobbling back and forth? Or is there vibration in the wheel? If it's vibration, but the rig steers straight, I'd check your front prop shaft, both u-joints and slip yoke. I had been chasing sim issues in my 95, but didn't inspect the prop shaft carefully. My u-joint exploded on me, but after removing the prop shaft, I discovered the slip yoke was frozen. You should be able to move this by hand. If it doesn't, you need to fix or replace right away.

With the front prop off, there was absolutely no vibration anymore, it was silky smooth. I just wish I hadn't been so lazy not to inspect the slip joint, though I did check for play in the u joints, which had no play at all. Check this vid for details, https://youtu.be/hWGM7fnMV9g

I guess in principle, you should not have pre load issues, but having gone through the hassle of removing the swivels from the axle, why didn't you tear down completely and rebuild as necessary, unless they had been overhauled recently?

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Discussion Starter #11
It's a high-frequency shake through the steering wheel, in the plane of wheel movement, only apparent over certain bumps at higher speeds.

Didn't change anything else as nothing appeared to be worn - there was a small amount of play in one bearing which could have been adjusted but I elected to change both for new. There's a very small amount of movement in one steering balljoint (which will be changed), but that hasn't just happened.

Hubs will be coming off again soon as I have some new discs to go on - what else should be renewed whilst it's in bits?
 

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Sounds like you may have a balljoint issue. Jack the car up so that one front tire is off the ground. Grab the tire @ 3 & 9, if you have play, you need new ball joints. Grab the tire @ 6 & 12, if you have play, you have swivel pin issues. Repeat on other side.


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