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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #1
When I pull on/let off the handbrake on my truck, both the 'Brake' and what appears to be the 'Coolant OverTemp' warning lights come on/go out together. Is there a wiring problem, or is this normal? The Battery and Oil Pressure lights are acting normally. I've noticed that the Coolant Level Switch in the Cap of the Coolant Overflow Reservoir appears to be stuck. But then the Coolant Overtemp warning light would stay on all the time, no?

Thanks,
Wil
 

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You have a a wire crossed somewhere.

When you pull the handbrake, only the "brake" light should illuminate. That same light will also engage when the pressure in the brake system is charging or low.

The coolant temperature light should only engage when the connector on the top of the reservoir are broken, or if the level is low, or if there is a legitimate cooling issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Found out more interesting stuff. The Low Coolant Switch is stuck in the open position, which according to my ETM means the Low Coolant Warning Lamp should always be on. When I pull the 2-terminal connector off the Low Coolant Switch, yet another light starts flashing (see photo). The Low Coolant Switch should be on all the time, but it isn't. Wondering if someone deliberately messed up the Low Coolant warning circuit so that the light isn't on all the time. But that seems silly because the bulb could have been pulled instead, or better yet just buy a new Low Coolant Switch, which I shall do. Also, will jumper the Low Coolant Switch Connector Plug Terminals together and see what we get. Interesting conundrum...

Another thought--I don't think the handbrake turning on the Low Coolant Switch Warning Lamp is a bulb-check of said Lamp, it's some other cause...
 

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When I pull on/let off the handbrake on my truck, both the 'Brake' and what appears to be the 'Coolant OverTemp' warning lights come on/go out together. Is there a wiring problem, or is this normal? The Battery and Oil Pressure lights are acting normally. I've noticed that the Coolant Level Switch in the Cap of the Coolant Overflow Reservoir appears to be stuck. But then the Coolant Overtemp warning light would stay on all the time, no?

Thanks,
Wil
The light that appears to be "coolant overtemp" warning is actually the gearbox overheating warning. My '91 RoW with manual transmission does the same when pulling the handbrake. The manual does not have a sensor for gearbox temperature however. From memory, according to the owners manual, it should not be on when pulling the handbrake, but as many things with Land Rovers, it's normal ;-)
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, thanks for that. I haven't acquired a RoW English OM for my 1991 truck yet, thus the mistake :???:. After consulting my ETM further, I found that warning light informs about overtemp on both the auto tranny and the transfer gearbox. I think you're right about the manual gearbox not having an overtemp sensor, but I will check both the manual and transfer gearboxes for overtemp sensors next time I get it on the lift. Now it's started with just the gearbox overtemp light coming on when I pull the handbrake--the handbrake warning light remains off. Jeesh. Gotta be a loose wire somewhere, I'll check the handbrake switch first.

The light that appears to be "coolant overtemp" warning is actually the gearbox overheating warning. My '91 RoW with manual transmission does the same when pulling the handbrake. The manual does not have a sensor for gearbox temperature however. From memory, according to the owners manual, it should not be on when pulling the handbrake, but as many things with Land Rovers, it's normal ;-)
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #6
The RoW OM I won on eBay UK finally came today. Here's the quote from it that definitively answers the OP question: "The (Transmission oil temperature) light will also illuminate while the handbrake is not fully disengaged with ignition on or engine running." Much ado about nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Final little note to add: if you are checking your Coolant Low Level Switch, it's an (inductively-coupled?) On/Off float switch, but when the contacts are closed (i.e., coolant level good, float in 'up' position), your ohmmeter will read ~680 ohms, not zero. So, if you have a non-autoranging ohmmeter on the x1 scale, it will deceive you into thinking the switch isn't working (don't ask...:-}).
 
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