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Discussion Starter #1
So, About 4 years ago I sold my Rovers to a a guy. He didn't take all that great of care of them and when they went down, he just let them sit.Eventually I ask what he was going to do with them and wound up buying them back.

To make a long story short, I have no fuel past the injectors. Now, I did swap the amplifier on the distributor from the 1993 to the 1990 which required swapping the plug on the harness. The amplifier Ohm's out as it should but that is the only component in the system that is not original. I have gone through the Rave manual's trouble shooting guide several times over and I can not find anything out of place, injectors Ohm out good on both banks, 12.7v on each side, engine and ECU grounds look good, sensors all read as they should aside from a faulty coolant temp sensor which I have bypassed with a 0.8k resistor pack for the moment. Fuel pressure sits right around 38 psi, plenty of volume out of the return line. Good hot blue spark and proper gap on the plugs. The engine will run if you feed a little gas into the intake, I just cannot seem to find the fault that is preventing the injectors from firing! I also tried swapping ECU's from the parts truck and it didnt make any difference, I did have two dead coolant sensors so maybe I have two dead ECU's as well, although the odds of that seem really slim.

If anyone has any pointers for me or maybe a spare ECU lying around they 'd part with please let me know. Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Gunnarson
 

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If you can put fuel or starter fluid in the intake
And it starts
It’s the fuel pump
I would check for ground at the pump
Electric connecton
On my 92
I just had to clean the connectiony
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The fuel pump was bad when I got the truck back, he had left the cap off and the tank was full of trash plus the pump had no sock filter on it so it was toast from the get go. I replaced it with a walbro with new sock filter and wiring as well as adding a ground on the frame rail beside where the fuel level sending unit and fuel pump wires join up in the harness just for good measure. My pressure at the rail is now 38 psi nominal. I'm thinking its the ECU thats had it and its not switching the ground to fire the injectors but I dont have a noid light set so I cant check the injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I tested that at the ECU and got a reading of ~9v and 6.8k ohms to ground which is what the fsm calls for. I also checked the connection at the coil, or at least the one that looked like the right wire. It pares off of the harness near the plug for the MAF correct?
 

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Correct – I think it is white wire with a green stripe from the coil? (I don’t currently have access to the truck)

The injectors batch fire (4 at a time) when grounded – it is a simple system.

I had an issue once where I had 12 volts to an injector, but no amperage which caused a misfire - this was down to a damaged wire in the harness.

There is also a ground wire that comes off the distributor that connects to the block - not sure if this would be related to your issue?

If you have 12 volts to the injectors and good fuel pressure – you are missing the ground pulse.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah... I definitely dont have a ground from the dizzy to the block on either truck! I'll check that when I get home this afternoon. I did see a significant voltage drop while cranking but that has always been the case with both trucks so I didnt pay it much attention. I wonder if the increased current has finally done something in...
 

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Correction: The wire from the coil is white with a black stripe and should be connected to the negative side of the coil.

Also, make certain you have not crossed the #1 injector connection with the engine temp sensor connection.

I would also confirm the timing is correct - TDC, with the dizzy pointed to #1

Another item to check is a common ground at the back of the left bank (drivers side US) of the motor where the woven strap from the bonnet is attached along with other wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
IIRC the timing is set to 6" base advance, I'll recheck it when I get home but the way it runs when I drip fuel in the intake tells me the timing must be pretty close.

I'll look at the temp sender again but I dont think mine has one on that side of the engine.

I just repaired the injector grounds and one of the TPS wires that run along the back of the engine and I did not see a ground out of the harness there, is it supposed to be in the harness or just from the block to the firewall?

BTW thanks for all the help guys , this thing has really got me on the ropes.
 

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Sorry – mine is a 95’ so it may be a bit different.

The common ground is on the back of the block. The bonnet strap and I think two additional wires are attached.

I agree – If it is running on starting fluid/fuel the timing is close enough. Is it running well enough to rule out a bad coil?

You make want to revisit the recent ground repairs?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hmm, I can only remember one braided ground and it is from the block on the left below exh. manifold to the left fender near the coil so maybe an additional one from the int. manifold to the chassis would get some results. I'll recheck those ground repairs and get back to you.

I have a 12 volt pump I use to fuel my model planes and if I run it at half speed the truck idles almost as smooth as it did with the injectors so I hink the coil is ok. Spark test gave me a nice strong blue spark.
 

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the injector pulse signal wire is white with black stripe and it is on the mass airflow harness next to the maf connector.
engine harness grounds are bolted to the back of one or both of the heads and sometimes to a stud on the intake manifold depending on model year.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You were right on the money with the ignition pulse wire, Lockettc. The ignition signal lead to the ECU was on the positive coil terminal instead of the negative (insert expletives here). Also it does have a temp sender on the manifold, I guess I had forgotten that one. It now runs and made it to the gas station for some fresh fuel and the car wash for a thorough scrub. Its not running very well though, kept trying to die on me once it got some temperature and I have lost 4th gear, tacho is intermittent and the speedo is dead...

Yours must be closer to mine 95Classic, I do have grounds on the rear of the left cylinder head, cleaned and sealed them while I was re-checking my repairs back there.

Good thing I'm a sucker for a hard luck case!

Thanks for the help guys, stay tuned for the next round of mishaps! I suspect this one is going to be a long project.
 

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It’s not running very well though, kept trying to die on me once it got some temperature:

Check for vacuum leaks

Clean/Replace the stepper motor – idle control valve

Confirm the ignition timing, and set baseline idle

Plugs, wires, cap and rotor?

I have lost 4th gear:

If the trans is shifting smoothly (and holding) in all other gears – adjust the kickdown cable. Increase the length.

Check and confirm fluid level and quality

Tach is intermittent:

Clean the connection, and isolate (protect) the tach sender wire form the ignition wires.

Note: this could be early signs of alternator diode failure.


The speedo is dead: Speed sensor p/u on the trans or, bad ground and possibly cluster issue?
 
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