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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks!
I've always had a soft spot or rangies so when this one showed up on Craigslist an hour away, I couldn't help myself. Kinda like your first girlfriend. Even years later, you know you shouldn't but you just can't resist.
So its got a few issues I'm hoping you can help me with. I'm pretty handy but I haven't spoken the rover language in a few years.

It takes several seconds of cranking to start when cold. Seems to get better if I pump the gas a few times?

Once it starts, the idle seems to shoot up and drop down. Kinda like a coolant temp sensor problem? Dunno.

Ugh, the tailgate...

Passenger side windows don't work. Are switches usually the culprit?

Fuel gauge will work and then show empty. Back and forth every few minutes.

Anyone here ever hang a headliner? I have the backing out with no material on it.

Ok, so I know I can search a lot of this up but I'm working from home, teaching 2 kids elementary school and could use some interaction...even if its through a forum.

Thanks!!
0326201827_Film4.jpg
 

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Get a copy of the rave manual... if you don’t already...free download...
Or get a manual on eBay...
At some point you are going to have to replace the plugs.. plug wires ... cap and rotor... why wait ... start new ...
if the 89 had a code reader it will be located on the passenger seat... if it’s there it will help you ...
rather than pump the gas try turning on the switch for a few seconds then try cranking ..
I would think the idle shooting up and down may have something to do with the tps... or the MAF ... try cleaning the MAF and the inside of the plenum.. there is cleaner for these...
The tailgate....you got one ...good start..
Window ... could be switch...
You can change them out with a working one to find that out...
If it the motor .. remove the door card and you can test that easily...
Very easy to remove and replace..
the relays are in the cubby
Under the box...
Headliner ... there are several post here and there about this... otherwise use your imagination...
nice looking rover you got there
Be patient with it and it will be your friend...
good luck with the kids...
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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341 Posts
fuel sender is your culprit for sure. 89 is the last year to have an aluminum rear floor. either you drop the tank or drill out the rivets for the floor and replace it from the top.

stumbling idle is ICV (Delco 217-437), throttle pot sensor or MAF related.
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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The windows could be switches or just frozen motors/gearboxes. I had power to all my windows but one wouldn't move at all, I took it apart and the motor/gearbox was frozen solid. Some cleaning and lubricating got it spinning free and it works like a charm now. If it is electrical, it could be bad grounds, which these cars are notorious for. I have traced countless gremlins down to corroded or broken ground wires. If there's power to the switch but its less than 12V, that might be your issue. My sunroof didn't work, there was only 3V at the motor when the switch was pressed, cleaned up the ground wire and voila, 12V, and it started working immediately.

The long crank is potentially fuel related, O'Reilly will rent fuel pressure testers (for free) and you can use it to see if the pump is putting out the required pressure (it won't tell you anything about the regulator on the fuel rail, but one step at a time). The fuel line runs along the rear passenger wheel well into the filter, (I'd replace that too, they can get clogged and they're dirt cheap) where you can disconnect the fuel line and connect it to the pressure tester. Turn the key and the pump should put out around 40 psi if I remember correctly.

Also definitely get the RAVE manual, crazy useful.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys! Very helpful indeed! Someone spent a ton on this thing with suspension, running gear and maintenance. I'm gonna get after the fuel sender and the stumbling idle.
So, what are the main culprits for the EFI light?
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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Unfortunately for an '89 its a mystery, as there's no diagnostic. It could be the MAF, the Temp Sender, the Fuel Temp sender, the O2's, the IAV, a couple other things, or in my case something as incredibly stupid as the park/neutral safety switch. Here's a list of al the potential problems that could cause the EFI light to go on.


What I did on my '89 to get around the diagnostic issue was finding a 14CUX computer from a later RRC (there's plenty on eBay) and switching it out. The wiring harness to the computer has a white plug with a loopback wire hanging off the side, which is the diagnostic port (yes it's there on 89's even though they have no diagnostic ability). There is a piece of software called RoverGauge which can communicate with the computers via a custom USB to Serial cable with the appropriate connector (available online). If you're interested in this avenue I suggest perusing some of the links below.



 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok so a couple of updates:
The windows are all working now. The motors were frozen. I pulled them out and put power to them with the power probe and they're good to go. Those little plastic brackets for the door lock knobs didn't survive the ordeal...

It seems to be running better the more i drive and use it. I fogged the snot out of it with seafoam and that helped. Less surging and a more stable idle.

I pulled the mass air flow to clean it and i found a little dried muddy water. Not good. Is there a way to test one of these or should I just buy a new one?

Which sensor is the coolant temp sensor? There seems to be 3 in the vicinity of the thermostat housing. One on the housing itself, one on the drivers side of the housing and one on the passenger side (with only one lead - for the guage?)

Ugh...the tailgate...
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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if you think your coolant temp sensor is busted connect plug into the fuel temp sensor on the rail. see if it runs better
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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Ok so a couple of updates:
The windows are all working now. The motors were frozen. I pulled them out and put power to them with the power probe and they're good to go. Those little plastic brackets for the door lock knobs didn't survive the ordeal...

It seems to be running better the more i drive and use it. I fogged the snot out of it with seafoam and that helped. Less surging and a more stable idle.

I pulled the mass air flow to clean it and i found a little dried muddy water. Not good. Is there a way to test one of these or should I just buy a new one?

Which sensor is the coolant temp sensor? There seems to be 3 in the vicinity of the thermostat housing. One on the housing itself, one on the drivers side of the housing and one on the passenger side (with only one lead - for the guage?)

Ugh...the tailgate...
So since this confused me a while as well, here's the story on the temp sensors, yes there are 3. The 2 wire sensor on the removable thermostat housing/water neck is the AC fan override sensor. All it does is override the AC fans on to full blast if the temp reaches too high, to try to protect from overheating. It's just a simple switch, on and off, that goes to a relay. The one-wire sensor on the front of the engine below and to the left of the thermostat housing is the sensor for the gauge on the dash ONLY. The third sensor, which goes into the top of the manifold to the right and behind (closer to the driver) the thermostat housing (it's a bit hidden) and has the same type of connector as the fuel injectors is the ECU temperature sensor. That's the only one that connects to the EFI computer and the only one that would affect how it runs.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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For the headliner I would check out Famous Four. They make a two piece that’s easy to work with and install.

 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Hello,
Hope this helps.

few seconds of cranking issue:
i usually turn the key to the 1st notch and listen for the fuel pump to turn on (1-2sec running) when it stops, then i turn the key to START, in my experience with my '89 RRC, if starts within the 1-2 seconds. i think by letting the fuel pump turn on, it allows the fuel pump and line to build up pressure, (i can be wrong, but that works for me everytime)

idle surging issue
i had the same issue with the idling, i pulled off the IAV or IAC (it looks like a big black NUT) on the back of the engine. and cleaned it out, the Seaform helped in the beginning, but after cleaning the IAV or IAC it stopped the idle surging.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi everyone. The advice has been great and I have gotten a lot of the problems sorted on this baby.
2 more questions:

1) The tank and skid plate have recently been replaced. Still have stickers on em. Assuming (i know, I know) that the sender is good and everything above the tank is good, what else would cause the fuel gauge to not work and low fuel light to remain on? Is there anything else it could be or do I have to drop the tank?

2) How do we feel about the OEM mudflaps? The rig did not come with them but I installed the rear ones because I like to keep the elements off (and out of) the truck but I'm not feeling great about the looks. Do we have a collective opinion on mudflaps?

Thanks as always,
Andy
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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Hi everyone. The advice has been great and I have gotten a lot of the problems sorted on this baby.
2 more questions:

1) The tank and skid plate have recently been replaced. Still have stickers on em. Assuming (i know, I know) that the sender is good and everything above the tank is good, what else would cause the fuel gauge to not work and low fuel light to remain on? Is there anything else it could be or do I have to drop the tank?

2) How do we feel about the OEM mudflaps? The rig did not come with them but I installed the rear ones because I like to keep the elements off (and out of) the truck but I'm not feeling great about the looks. Do we have a collective opinion on mudflaps?

Thanks as always,
Andy
It could be a loose connection somewhere other than the sender, but that may be hard to trace down. I haven't had that problem yet so I haven't delved too deeply into the fuel gauge wiring. (I know that's not super helpful)

In regards to mudflaps, I in no way intend to speak for the collective majority, however I personally believe the big elephant ear mudflaps are an iconic part of the range rover classic look. Mine were rotted off when I got it, and I immediately put them back, but it does need all four to be balanced. It's a cool and slightly quirky detail that makes these trucks stand apart. Also when going down the road they trail back like little superhero capes, which I think just looks cool.
 

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I agree - definitely complete the look. Rovers North usually has them on a clearance sale once or twice a year.
 
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