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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked up a 1989 classic, it's got a few problems and I want to get a starting place for them, so any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. My idea is to build it for off roading and go 'splorin in the great pacific NW.
Here's just a few,

Turn signals don't work, the car recognizes the signals are on, but no lights go off, almost like every single light is burned out.
Automatic seats don't go backwards, found this out after girlfriend wanted to drive it, and messed with the seat.
Sounds like someone's shaking a box of rock under the car after it warms up.
Alternator is going bad, I'm pulling it out and getting that replaced or repaired this week.
Driver and rear driver windows don't roll down.

Eventually the tranny will need to get fixed, but I want to see what I'm up against first.

For 600 bucks, was this a terrible deal or is it do-able?

Thanks everyone in advance. I look forward to getting it started!
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Good Deal!

The seat-controls are easy to tear down. There's probably corrosion under the connectors. Be warned, it's a ball-bearing system so be careful when opening them.

Blinkers, check the relay on the drivers side kicker panel.

the "box of rocks" is most likely the cats on the exhaust. Not a big deal, just really, really annoying.

Alternators are all sorts of fun; Hang on to the resistors but get a new alternator. Advance has a refurb that will last a year and has a warranty. Check the belt too!

Luckily, parts for a RRC are affordable! You'll have a blast with the work!
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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310 Posts
I wouldn't take apart the seat controls just yet. Mine were both basically dead and a whole lot of electronics cleaner sprayed into them with a lot of "jiggling" back and forth rapidly brought theym back. Just pull off the large button things and spray into the holes. Also, welcome to alternator problems, at least in my experience.
 

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I wouldn't take apart the seat controls just yet. Mine were both basically dead and a whole lot of electronics cleaner sprayed into them with a lot of "jiggling" back and forth rapidly brought theym back. Just pull off the large button things and spray into the holes. Also, welcome to alternator problems, at least in my experience.
Not a recommended fix. Some cleaners can melt plastic. Others just push the glop around. Usually the reason for the switch to go bad is someone spilled something on it and it has stickied up the works. These are 100 percent mechanical switches with all kinds of tiny springs and ball bearings and rocker levers and stuff. Doesn't take much coffee to jack them up.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Not a recommended fix. Some cleaners can melt plastic.
Not if you use something designed for the job. A switch cleaner will clean the switches and not damage the plastic. Start bunging something like Acetone, brake cleaner or cellulose thinners in there and you could well have problems but proper switch or contact cleaner won't harm anything (and will clean the contacts better than something not formulated for the job).
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Not a recommended fix. Some cleaners can melt plastic. Others just push the glop around. Usually the reason for the switch to go bad is someone spilled something on it and it has stickied up the works. These are 100 percent mechanical switches with all kinds of tiny springs and ball bearings and rocker levers and stuff. Doesn't take much coffee to jack them up.
I used electronics cleaner, in 15 years of using the stuff, i've never seen it affect plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry I've been away, works been keeping me from this project. So I tried some of that cleaner, but no dice. Switches still stuck, maybe I should take the whole housing unit out and clean it? Also looks like the tachometer is dead too, so there's another issue. speedometer isn't working, driver side and driver passenger windows don't work, luckily they're up! Blinkers still don't work. Maybe I'm in over my head; is there a manual that'll tell me everything so I don't have to constantly keep asking? Haha. Anyone have any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I tried some of that cleaner, but no dice. Also looks like my tachometer is dead, along with the speedometer, and the front and rear driver side windows. Should I just take the whole seat switches out and clean them individually? And does anyone know where to find a manual on this stuff? Thanks!
 

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Tackle ONE problem at a time. Take your time. Have fun. Don't get "restoration burn-out" by having unrealistic expectations (i.e., diagnosing electrical problems takes as long as it takes, + 15 minutes) ;^) Get a good set of manuals.

I worked in avionics and aircraft electrical systems and the best tool is the one between your ears, so learn how to use it correctly. Hit the books and brush up on basic electrical theory if you need to, as even the best digital multi-meter in the world won't tell you anything if you don't know where to put the probes. Use a notebook and make drawings (that's always helped me on complex circuit issues). Ask "dumb" questions incessantly - that's what these forums are for, but learn to separate the "wheat from the chaff"....
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Is it a mechanical speedo or electronic? The way to find out is to look at the back of the binnacle and see if there is a cable there. If it is mechanical then chances are the cable is busted. Otherwise it picks up a signal from a transponder near the back of the transfer case, so then work your way through that.

The tacho gets its signal from the alternator so see if the wire is plugged in. You can get the colour of the wire from the wiring diagrams in RAVE.

The windows could be dead motors (or more likely the gearboxes on the motors) or else there is a controller box underneath the glove box in the centre console. If you hotwire them and they work then the problem is most likely the controller. Not sure where you get a spare, I pulled one out of a wrecker.

I would start with checking the indicator bulbs although usually they flicker if there is one dead bulb. The indicator stalk is a module and it is easy to remove and then check. Just got to get out the wiring diagram, study it and work your way down e.g. find the fuse, does it have power? If yes check if there is power at the switch, can't remember if there is a relay for the indicators but I think not.

Like the chap says, do one job at a time and work through it methodically. You would have no idea how many people here just replace parts willy nilly or hope to sprinkle pixy dust on problems rather than working through the system logically.
 

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Bet the window support brackets are rusted out mine were . Hell of job to replace need to remove window with the doorframe . Or motors , take them out & bench test both directions
 
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