If it's definitely coming out of the wading plug hole then I would say you are in trouble. The parts book shows two cup plugs on the back of the block. If these have something to do with the cooling system then that is likely your problem. Have you checked for more obvious things like a leaking heater hose dropping coolant on the bell housing which then drips off the bell housing at the wading plug? One way to find out is to fit the wading plug and see if the leaking stops. if it doesn't then it isn't coming out of the bell housing.
Thank you so much for your reply , I have taken off the back plate from the fly wheel housing and it would seem as if the water (coolent ) is coming from the top of the of the bell housing where the back plate meets the lower part of the engine then running in side the back plate and then coming out of the Wading plug hole !!. I am guessing it must be the two core / freeze plugs at the back of the engine, looks like i got some work to do on this one.
I have noticed ther are two other core / freeze plugs to replace due to old age! not me the engine !
Is taking the engine out the only way to fit new plugs?
Howard, you are thinking the worst possible problems. As Jonno42 said, it cold be the rubber hoses going to the heater core, or the very short one from the water pump that seldom gets replaced, because it is a pain. The coolant could be just running thru the valley gasket back to the engine,where you see it, simple fix rather than engine out. If the freeze plugs are the ones, the coolant should be going out without the engine running?
Think the simple things first.
Hi Thank you for your time in responding, I will have a look at the heater hoses tomorrow and fingers crossed it is that, the frezze plugs on both sides of the block do need to be changed but i see that as a far easer task than the heater hoses.
The car has been in a garage for the passed 12 years , but bin remarcably good nick for its age.
Hi , Well after a lot of invesegation it looks as if it is the back of the block , I disconnected the heater hoses filled the radator and the water was still poring out from the back of the block / flywheel . I think it must ne the core plugs at the back of the block so will proceed to take out the cross member , transfure box ,drive shafts and then the auto box , i think this is a better option than taking out the engine ?
it not the wadeing plug hole where the water is coming from its just running that way and must have been able to get behind the flywheel back plate !
Let me have your thoughts when you have time .:x photo attached
Another possibility is intake manifold the coolant is there also. Is it tight? Try to use food coloring in the radiator or leak detector or infra red powder. I may be overcomplicating things, but better than removing transmission or engine. If the truck was parked for a while, I would suspect more seals and gaskets the freezer plug, unless of course it froze without enough winter mix in it. Shooting in the dark here.
I have just recently stripped and rebuilt the top of the engine , but only the injectors and the v shaped part of the top of the engine I think it is called the intake Manifold but have looked and felt around that area and its all dry , so i think it can only come from somwhere in between the block and the bell housing ?
at a loss , feeling like the only way is to strip it down and have a good rot round !
thank you once again for you suggestions and your time
Ok thank you I will have to further strip the diner block down and investigate from inside , I was going to start to take take out the transfer box from the the RRC with the problem but maybe I should wait to have a look at the diner block first , as I might be jumping the gun a bit ? But I really cannot see any other reason the water is coming out where it is ? Not hoses and the back of the engine is dry so it must be further down at the back of the block , and ther core plugs pictured are the only other explanation .
Of course the only problem I have is I am doing it on my own and the transfer box is very heavy , as is all the parts on the RRC. It's built like a tank !!!
You might want to look a bit deeper - it might be that a previous owner has been running it without antifreeze/corrosion inhibitor and there is corrosion elsewhere in the motor which will be a problem later.
Hi , thank you for the advice , after taking out the plugs I have inspected inside as far as I can see and I does look a bit corroded, I will give it a good wash through to try to get as much rubbish out as I can , once I have replaced to core plugs can I refill the coolest and run the engine to test the plugs before rebuilding the transmission and transfer box ? Back on the engine , just enough to get the coolant hot and under pressure.
On another point would you recommend using any sealant on the plugs when putting them back in? I did notice the old ones did have a red ring around then so it would seem as if they did at the factory.
For future coolant what would you recommend ?
Thank you for taking the time to reply
I have not installed cup plugs. I would follow the instructions that (hopefully) come with them. I did some quick internet research and it seemed to suggest that you need a special tool to belt them in with and that you can use a sealant, and if you don't you will at least need a lubricant to get them in.
The correct coolant is 50% ethyl glycol and it's important to run it, not water as it acts as a corrosion inhibitor.
I think what you suggest is best. Replace the plugs, and then run the motor. I think you should be able to run the motor with the gearbox out, but you might have to support the back end somehow. Again I've not done this.
When you run the motor, you need to let it get hot and run for a while. A sure sign of trouble is steam coming out of the exhaust. Other problems might be milky coloured oil, bubbles in the radiator, or the radiator hose from the pump goes rock hard from being pressurised. Any of these things would point to a crack somewhere in the water jacket.
A crack in the head should be easy to repair - get it welded up and remachine the head. Something in the block would likely be a bigger problem.
Hi again , thank you for the reply ,I need to source the plugs in Hungary , that may be a problem as the classic Range Rover is not big here .
Will let you know how I get on , loads of rebuilding to do , but taking the Gear box out and the transfer box ,as well as the exhaust system and all the mounts has given me the opportunity to clean up the chassis and the gearbox well etc.
Hi well with the help of a load of blocks of wood , and two jacks one is a floor jack on wheels ( not sure of the correct name ) it took abowut 4 hours , all the linkage take a lot of the time , and and bagging up all the bolts and ensuring all the bolts are out before trying to lift it off. I am lucky I have a pit , but without it there is no way I could have done it alone. Photographs are a good idea so you can check the when puting it back together , also marking up so things go back the way they came off , I think the more you do the easer it is takin it apart is easy anyone can do that but putting it cacb together is the hard part.
Good luck if you attempt it
BTW four new plugs back in this morning engine fill with normal water for testing !!! And fingers crossed, need to do a bit of rebuilding before I can test it, exhaust , and starter flywheel ? Wish me luck