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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've seen a similar thread but it was some time ago. I just came across a Range Rover with 192K miles on it on the original engine/transmission/ and shockingly one of the front bags is original. I have 100K miles on mine now but I've only owned it for 6K of those miles. (I love the Range Rover but it is a bit sad that 100K miles is an achievement as Honda is giving away new vehicles to all the owners that roll 1M on their cars and there have been quite a few in 2011)

Replaced: FSR, Sway Links, Dash Pixel Ribbon
 

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I got mine with about 30,000 on it, 2004 range back in 2007... It's at 93,000 miles now and let me think...

Sway end links
Both front struts
water pump
cooling hoses
expansion tank
battery
air suspension hose
brakes
ride height sensor
4 HID bulbs
abs sensor
rear bushings

then countless fixes that don't require parts, like for example my power seats stopped working (shorted wire behind the seat) I'm sure I'm forgetting at least 5 replacement items though.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I don't think 100K is an achievement at all, most just have not had time to get the mileage up. I've got 80K on mine, bought at 50K, and I have replaced all heater/coolant hoses/coolant tank ( just as a maint items, no failures), plugs, filters, oil every 5k, and changed trans fluid/ filter at 60K and just the fluid again at 70K. I'll do another trans fluid at 90K then a fluid/filter at 100K, then just every 50K, just to be safe. I plan on keeping mine.
 

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2010 SC 5.0 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I got mine with 62K and it has 67K .
This is a really nice machine, way better than the FJ60 i was driving

Replaced parts list....
Replaced main serpentine belt
Replaced AC belt
2 rear shocks RR was blown (not the bags)
2 front shocks and bags (new) Delphi
Used rear hatch latch
New expansion tank
RF headlight glass
New fuel filter
Replaced RR tail light (filled with water)
trans flush 11 qts and a filter
transfer case fluid change
oil change and filter
fitted 3M paint protectant film to the front end as well as the headlamps and fog lenses
painted F and R suspension arms with epoxy paint to stop rust
painted windshield cowl plastic
replaced all pressurized lift cylinders for the hatch and hood
Covered battery and harnesses with plastic sheeting to protect from water.
Removed battery tray and covered harnesses under the tray with plastic sheeting to protect from water
Drilled holes for water drainage in the battery box next to each mounting bolt, painted tray
Painted all the door handles with silver paint then clear coated.
Buffed and waxed the truck
Replaced the side vents 2 vent version with 3 vent parts also repainted to match door handles and clear coated
Covered rear audio and fuse panels with plastic sheeting to prevent water damage (similar to what the factory is now doing )
Added 3M paint film to all 4 door lower jamb edges adjacent to where the foot step panels are
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, I've done a lot of "upgrades" or replacements that weren't technically necessary but I have not had too many issues yet. I haven't heard of very many L322's with high mileage and by now there should be a lot over 100K. 192K is the highest I have seen or heard of. I'm working on restoring a vintage vehicle that will take ~1.5-2 years so I'm hoping to get ~150K out of mine.
 

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104k

Brakes all around
Tires
Water Pump
Alternator
Front Diff (Thankfully, argued my case with RRNA and they covered this one)
Battery (x2)
Window Regulator
Belt
Front Strut Assemblies (R&L)

And for the Pièce de résistance - The Engine! :doh:


Got a feeling we'll be seeing more of that last one.... The RR covered service interval for oil changes was set at 15k mi. :evil: Obviously this saved them tons at the dealerships for covered oil changes stretching it out that far and any issues would pop up way after the warranties have expired and they can wash their hands of it at that point and the damage is done. I have got pictures of the inside of my old engine that would make you puke! The sludge buildup is the worst I have ever seen. The entire inside of the engine was caked with it and clogged oil passages and starved the engine for oil,,,,, no more motor. :shock: I changed the oil (Mobil 1) every 6-7k mi since 70k but the damage was done. Never knew till it was too late.

Word of warning here folks. Take care of these M62's and they will last but if it was serviced by a dealer for several years with their 15k mi oil service interval I would be checking that engine for sludge buildup and changing the oil frequently. That is not a bite you want to take and 15k miles between oil changes is not something I would ever do to something I own, no matter what the claims are for synthetic oils.

Oil = cheap
Motor = Bend Over.......



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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That really sucks Ringo. When did your motor crap out? 15K miles for an oil change is absolutely ridiculous. There is no way that oil can last that long without breaking down unless they buy the oil from where jack bought his beanstalk beans. I hate to ask but what was the out the door expense for a motor replacement? The rest of your replacements seem to be in line with what I see here but surprisingly the FSR hasn't went yet.
 

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2016 HSE Td6
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957 Posts
I'm looking at an '03 with 105k and an '04 with 98k. Is either year theoretically better than the other?

I recall that if you add a small amount of diesel fuel to the oil, run it for 30 minutes and then change it (and filter), the diesel will remove the sludge buildup. My brother-in-law had an old chevy that the shop said was dead and needed a new motor. Just because he couldn't hurt things any worse than he thought it was already, he tried the diesel trick and it worked. Oil pressure went back up and he came the car for another 80k miles with no engine problems.

Has anyone else ever heard or done this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The 03' would be the first model year of the L322 and new model years tend to have more issues than a second year would but they are pretty much the same. If the 03' is a fair amount cheaper then personally I would go with it rather than pay more for one model year newer that is the same body style/motor. I almost always buy 1st year vehicles as they are usually significantly less expensive. This is assuming the condition of both is very similar.
 

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2016 HSE Td6
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The 03' would be the first model year of the L322 and new model years tend to have more issues than a second year would but they are pretty much the same. If the 03' is a fair amount cheaper then personally I would go with it rather than pay more for one model year newer that is the same body style/motor. I almost always buy 1st year vehicles as they are usually significantly less expensive. This is assuming the condition of both is very similar.
Yep, I'm aware that '03 was the first year for the model. Until the crash of my 95 LWB County Classic three years ago I was "into" RR. I looked at them last year but couldn't find one that was in reasonable shape for the price I wanted to pay. Bought a temp truck and waited a year. Sold it on ebay last week and now back looking at the RR.

The good news is that both trucks are at the same dealer and I've spoken with this guy before about RRs. He's very knowledgeable and used Vic (Rover Shoppe) for years (as I did with my Classic). So, when I look at the pics (haven't gone in person to look as it's 50+ city miles to see them) one possible difference (unless they just didn't take the pic of the '03) is AC vents for the back between the front seats. Should I expect these on the '03 HSE?

Thanks,
 

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1. My 03 has the AC vents, and also the rear seat heaters. I mention this because I've seen some 03 models WITHOUT the rear seat heat.

2. I would say that you're probably never going to know which is better - the 03 or the 04. The mileages are too similar. It depends on driving conditions and repairs / maintenance performed. The dealership is trying to sell you something, so even if they do know that one or both of them have had, or may have, 'issues', they are unlikely to tell you that. Without telling lies to you, they are perhaps going to be conservative with the truth.... And as we all know, the sticker price is simply the admission price to a potentially expensive club. Take a close look at the interior of both vehicles. Take a powerful flashlight with you, in order to look 'beyond' the shiny detailing job that the dealership has probably had done. The interior finish quality of all 03-06 models is notoriously bad. Almost every piece of black and silver trim is prone to scratching and pealing. I've taken most of the panels off and repainted them myself. Do the best research you can on both vehicles, then go with your gut feeling, and don't beat yourself up when it needs a $1500 repair the day after you buy it. Try to negotiate some sort of Warranty with teh dealership, and get tehm to put it in writing, as specific as possible. If they don't agree to a 3,000 mile, 30 day, Warranty, then consider walking away.

3. Engine condition. Timely discussion - I was discussing the engine-oil issue with my (highly trusted) mechanic the other day. We were specifically talking about the sludge he has scooped out of engines that had the 'recommended' 15,000 mile oil-changes. I have no idea when the oil changes were done before I got the vehicle at 95,000 miles, but I'm very nervous that it was something stupid like every 15,000 miles. I change mine myself every 6-7k. I would be very motivated to spend some time and money trying to figure out the condition of my engine, and attempt soem sort of pre-disaster maintenance. I'm intrigued by the diesel technique. I'm clueless with engines, so I guess this will be my next project. Maybe I can find a can of $20 miracle snake-oil to remove all teh possible sludge I have.....
 

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184,000 Miles. Doing right now VANOS Rebuild all hoses and gaskets. New Tensioners, and Pulleys. Two new O2 Sensors Plugs and also Lower timing chain cover as old one got punctured when Tensioner pulley gave way and snapped the casting. Will pull out All the Valves and replace the seals. Camshaft covers being re-powder coated. Induction system cleaned and put another PCV valve in. New Radiator and hoses. Fixed Power Steering with new Modulator solenoid. Flushing oil lines and doing full de-coke. Changed Factory Nav System with new Touch Screen Nav system that talks to factory Amps and Steering column controls. Front seat Leather replacement. Headliner Recover and new drain hoses for Sun roof. Front Air Struts replaced. EAS Solenoid Block replaced and also Tank pressure sensor. Did Transmission flush at 85K I will do again shortly. As well as drop oil pan and clean any crap I find inside.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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1. My 03 has the AC vents, and also the rear seat heaters. I mention this because I've seen some 03 models WITHOUT the rear seat heat.
The Bi-Xenon headlights and the Heated Accessories Package were options on the 2003 model year car.
 

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I, too, am about to roll over 100K (in about 175 miles). My rig has the LR extended warranty through 100K so hopefully if something big is going to pop, it goes this week `) because the warranty will be done by Friday given my daily commute...

Fortunately, the gentleman from whom I bought the truck kept meticulous records and gave everything to me in a three-ring binder with the records in clear sleeves. Being a Bentley owner, I understand that a vehicle must have 'provenance', and so I also do this very thing with records for all of my cars, and have continued filling the binder he gave me with records for what I have done to it which so far (I bought it with 97,100 on it) is;

-Synthetic lubrication service using Motul 8100 X-Cess 5W-40 (fortunately this truck saw 5K syn oil changes from new :tongue:)
-New Interstate battery
-Four new Bridgestone tires
-Valley pan re-seal (done by dealer under warranty)

And just before I got it, the dealer in NH (who sold it new and always serviced it) put in new cats, a new suspension compressor and a new radiator.

No mention of any EAS issues in the history, so we'll see what the future brings, but with Arnott's prices so reasonable, that'll be a minor annoyance at most.

Some of these engine issues are worrisome, however I think they're largely due to folks adhering to LR's recommended 15K service intervals, so fortunately my truck should have escaped that.
 

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2005 HSE Luxury, 119k, and now FOR SALE

Tires, brakes, battery, belts, plugs, etc. - all maintenance items.

Coolant reservoir - after an inconvenient blow up and overnight stay waiting on parts via UPS
Coolant hoses - after the top hose blew apart driving around town - always carry a set of hose clamps
Alternator, water cooled
Front springs/struts
Bluetooth module
PCV hoses - the ones around the top back of the engine tend to collapse and rupture
HID headlamp ($188 Nissan part is identical to $349 LR part)

I know I'm leaving things off, but these are the highlights SINCE 80k miles.

Currently, it only needs rear hatch struts and a prettier steering wheel, so I'm trying to get it sold before more bad things happen.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Just a curiosity, but would a 1 owner Range Rover be more appealing with no dealer visits in its vehicle history report(except for warranty repairs or similar) than one serviced by the dealer? One would expect an $80,000 vehicle to be well cared for, especially if the owner opted not to use the included dealer maintenance program.
 

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2016 HSE Td6
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Just a curiosity, but would a 1 owner Range Rover be more appealing with no dealer visits in its vehicle history report(except for warranty repairs or similar) than one serviced by the dealer? One would expect an $80,000 vehicle to be well cared for, especially if the owner opted not to use the included dealer maintenance program.
Assuming it's a 1-owner then you have a big upside possibility that it was maintained well. Naturally, if you're buying from the owner the question is "Where did you get all the work done?" If it's from a dealer, they should have the original owner's manual and additional booklets - most importantly the scheduled maintenance booklet. Why is this the most important? Because it has the name, address and phone number of the original purchaser. Viola! Someone to call and ask about the maintenance.

I just purchased a two-owner 04 and it still had the original manuals - with the name, address and phone number of the original purchaser. Very valuable!
 
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