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This may be basic, but I had to manually connect to the Autoplay Bluetooth the first time for it to start working. After that, it’s all good. Also, try forgetting your OEM Bluetooth.
Yeah, also tried removing the OEM bluetooth pairing entirely. Ray walked me through some troubleshooting steps and we even went so far as to do a factory reset on the entire unit, but still having the issue. Waiting to hear back from the supplier if there is a fix or if this might be a faulty unit.
 

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Android Auto just doesn't seem as nice Apple CarPlay.

I suggest that you guys go to your local Apple Store and purchase yourself an iPhone 11 Pro Max (unlocked and SIM free) and try it out for a few days. You can always return it for a full refund within 14 days if you don't like it.


Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
 

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It looks like you’re using the same wireless charging catchers mitt? Google that on amazon. I Frankensteined it to work with the catchers mitt.
Touch the image to zoom in

iBOLT ChargeDock USB-C Ultimate Magnetic Vehicle and Desktop Dock/Mount/Holder w/ 2m USB Certified Type C to USB-A Charging Cable. Works with All USB-C Phones (Samsung Note 9/8, S8 / S9 etc.)
by iBOLT
3.8 out of 5 stars 34 ratings
| 19 answered questions




Price:$39.95 & FREE Returns
CouponSave an extra 20% when you apply this coupon.
Details
 

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It looks like you’re using the same wireless charging catchers mitt? Google that on amazon. I Frankensteined it to work with the catchers mitt.
Touch the image to zoom in

iBOLT ChargeDock USB-C Ultimate Magnetic Vehicle and Desktop Dock/Mount/Holder w/ 2m USB Certified Type C to USB-A Charging Cable. Works with All USB-C Phones (Samsung Note 9/8, S8 / S9 etc.)
by iBOLT
3.8 out of 5 stars 34 ratings
| 19 answered questions




Price:$39.95 & FREE Returns
CouponSave an extra 20% when you apply this coupon.
Details
I saw the iBolt but decided against it because it uses the phone's USB C port to charge. The phone's USB C needs to be free from charging and used only for data for what we need it for. There are several fast wireless car chargers on Amazon that will probably work similar to what you have set up now. I will probably go the wireless car charger route. I just need to figure out where and how to mount it without making permanent changes to the the interior or leaving glue residue when the mount is removed.

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Ray- now that iOS 13 won’t let me specify Bluetooth priority for phone calls, I’ve decided to give the aux input another try (I’ve been pairing to Bluetooth for audio since it sounds better, imo). However, I can’t get any sound when using the CarPlay / aux connection.

Things I’ve done to troubleshoot:
  • Confirmed the OEM system is set to Aux input
  • Confirmed that the phone is set to carplay for the audio out, and the phone is actively playing something but I don’t hear any audio, no matter which app is playing.
  • Double checked that the AutoPlay software and box software are up to date.
  • Confimed audio level on android head unit is turned up
  • Confirmed that iphone audio works fine when I force connection to oem Bluetooth for audio.
any ideas?
Just thought I'd post a few updates.

1) regarding my Aux audio issues quoted above, Ray was able to determine with his supplier that my unit had a faulty audio chip. He sent a replacement unit lightening fast and I installed it this past weekend. Five days in, it's working flawlessly and the Aux audio quality is much much better...very happy with the result.

2) While I was swapping the unit, I thought I would give the Park Assist modification a try. For those following, Ray got some instructions from the engineers on which wires to connect to hopefully re-enable the Park Assist function. I used a t-junction connector to add a 'jumper' wire between the two cables so I could easily undo the mod:
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Unfortunately, it didn't work. I tried several different iterations of the connection (leaving the orange cable connected to it's original connector; disconnecting the orange cable; moving the jumper to either side of the orange cable's connector, etc). Ray is going to reach out to them again with this info and see if there's something I did wrong or if maybe they identified the wrong wires.

3) Regarding the microphone - several folks said they could barely hear me when doing a hands-free call over CarPlay, so while I had the unit out I also swapped out the mic for a higher quality one. The reviews are mixed...the first few calls on it, I was told it sounded perfect. But since then, I've had a couple of calls where the other party said I sounded far away and/or robotic. Siri hears my commands accurately 100% of the time, so at this point, I'll call it a slight improvement over the original. For those interested, I purchased the Clarion RCB 204 mic from Amazon.

4) For those experiencing the audio stuttering with iOS13, I don't have a solution, but I have found a fix that's at least quicker than unplugging and plugging the phone back in. When the stuttering starts (usually within seconds or minutes of plugging in), I just swipe down on the top of the screen and choose the 'app switcher' icon - this pulls up all open apps. Then just tap the AutoPlay app window to bring it back. For whatever reason, this seems to correct the stuttering.
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So for me, there's only two items left to address before I can say this solution is perfect for the L405:
  1. Re-enable the Park Assist function (hoping Ray's supplier will have some updates for us to try soon)
  2. Fix the iOS 13 audio stuttering (I'm fairly sure this not related to the android unit but isolated to either the AutoPlay app and/or box or iOS 13 itself. Either way, hopefully it will be addressed with a software update soon)
 

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Discussion Starter #186
I just want to add that it's best to close out any other apps running in the background on the Android unit...it's also good to close out any apps running in the background on your iPhone.
 

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@mark1107 I agree it could be an issue with the OEM equipment. However, it could also be an issue with noise on the line-level output of the Android head unit. I don't think it is the vehicle amplifier because the noise is not present on other inputs. Rather than rely on the analog output of the Android head unit and analog OEM auxiliary input of the car, I'm thinking a digital-to-digital connection (i.e., Bluetooth) would mitigate this issue entirely.

@ez2dealwit Thanks for your suggestion. I don't have anything plugged into the 3.5mm jack (though I considered testing a separate source connected to it). I did test connecting my iPhone to the USB port in the arm rest and it played properly though the "iPod" source without any noise. It is possible that even with nothing else plugged in, all of the wiring connected to the OEM auxiliary input, including now the wiring harness of the Android head unit, could be introducing noise to the analog input before amplification.

Here is a video of the noise when switching between inputs on the OEM screen. The volume is turned up, but the noise is noticeable even at lower levels. As you can see, the noise is only present when the Auxiliary input is selected.

Have you tried lowering the volume of the unit itself? I noticed in mine anything above 30 seems to case noise..I have mine set at 28
 

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Hey guys I've been meaning to do a review of this unit for a while, with that said..

This unit isn't very difficult to install but you do need a few tools and a workspace, which I didn't really have so I drove from San Diego to Indio, about a 2 hour drive and had Ray do the install, I'm very happy with the unit and install Ray did an excellent job, thanks Ray.

So a few things that I noticed, the unit can take a data card or a cell phone Sim card, but from what I found with T-Mobile only some of the data cards would work, and your only gonna get 3G speeds, even though there is an antenna plug that's labeled 4G on the inside of the unit, I tried connecting one, still 3G.
So I would highly recommend just using a hot spot. Also the dialer on the unit seems to lock up the unit when you try to use it, not sure why. But unless you have a full cell phone card installed that shouldn't be an issue.

I've tried the updated version of Android Auto and got disconnected twice, to be honest this unit works best as just a stand alone unit. I can use Google Maps while listening to YouTube Music with no issues, all steering wheel controls work.
I found that with Android Auto I couldn't change tracks with Spotify.

The unit itself isn't very powerful, I'm guessing it's a single core, and would like to see a dual core or something a little faster. If you have to many things running it will hinder the performance drastically.

I installed a 4 way USB adapter to the single USB plug and I'm able to have all 4 USB sockets recognized by the unit. Great for adding memory cause I think by filling up the internal memory will slow it down even more.
I added a few 1080p movies and played them through VLC and the sound and picture are really good.

The built in eq works pretty good, sound is definitely better with it but sometimes I find that it takes a minute to kick on, weird, don't know what the story is with that.
YouTube Music is my go to music app, video quality is good but cropped at 480p on 95% of the music videos. I'm pretty sure that's coming from my service provider.

Ray and I had first decided to install the GPS module and just tuck it in with the rest of the wires but I found that the signal wasn't very good so I relocated it up on the windshield next to the mirror, works excellent and can't even see it. Ray said there might be an issue for the people with the heated windshield. Mine isn't heated.

All in all this is a huge upgrade over the stock head unit. I would definitely recommend this to anyone with the stock unit looking for an upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #189
Thanks Keith, I'm glad that you're enjoying the new unit and I really appreciate your review. I hope this helps others who are interested in this Android unit. It really is a nice add-on/upgrade to the OEM system.
 

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My update: Although, the unit has a couple bugs. I like this unit. Unless you have knowledge of the Land Rover Meridian system, you wouldn't know it's an after market unit - a huge plus for me. I want everything to look OEM. I had a problem with the unit's data cable producing a charge sufficient enough to actually charge the phone while connected to Android Auto. From my understanding, this is only a problem for Android users. I solved the problem by purchasing wireless fast car charger from Amazon. This allows me to use the car charger to supply power to the wireless charger and the head unit's USB cable for Android Auto. I tried many combinations to charge the phone while connected via the head unit's USB but it either didn't work or the phone would not charge fast enough. The only method that worked was to connect a wireless fast charger to one of the vehicle's auxillary power sources and the phone's USB to the head unit's USB. My other issues are losing the park a$$i$t feature and the climate controls. I'm hoping the manufacturer is able to solve the park assist and dim climate control issues.

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Discussion Starter #191
Update: After I suggested to my supplier that they send a new cable/harness that's already set up for the auto park/self parking option instead of customers having to modify the harness themselves, my supplier just informed me that the engineers are working on a new cable to try to enable the auto park/self parking feature. I will let you guys know what they come up with. As far as the dim temperature display, they haven't figured anything out on that yet. However, being that the sensors are located on the side button packs that are now hidden inside the dash, I honestly don't think there's anything that can be done about that other than re-installing your factory screen with the side button packs.
 

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Thanks for the update Ray - fingers crossed!
 

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Discussion Starter #193 (Edited)
Update: My supplier just informed me that they decided not to produce another cable to enable the automated park assist because it would cost too much. However, he sent me a video on how you should connect the wiring to enable the feature. He said that it is a real simple connection. I don't have the automated park assist so I can't test this to see if it works. Anyone interested in the video, please send me a text and I will forward it to you...
 

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Update: My supplier just informed me that they decided not to produce another cable to enable the automated park assist because it would cost too much. However, he sent me a video on how you should connect the wiring to enable the feature. He said that it is a real simple connection. I don't have the automated park assist so I can't test this to see if it works. Anyone interested in the video, please send me a text and I will forward it to you...
I got the details from Ray last night and will re-attempt the mod tomorrow afternoon. I'll be sure to post pics and results.
 

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Discussion Starter #195
Update: Courtesy of forum member pherplexed...


 

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Update: Courtesy of forum member pherplexed...
Just to expand on Ray's previous post - thanks to his persistence with the supplier, we have a viable solution for enabling Auto-Park!! The first video from his post above is from the supplier walking you through the steps to modify the wiring. The second video is me walking through how it works once the mod is in place.

For those interested, the mod is really simple. Here's a quick diagram of how I connected the wires so I could easily undo later, if needed. (For reference on which wires these are, be sure to watch the video from Ray's supplier above)

281900
 

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Also, some more good news:
The AutoPlay app (the CarPlay app) has pushed a software and box update that seems to have addressed the stuttering audio issues all of us seemed to have with iOS 13. So be sure to run the software update check if you haven't recently.
 

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Great posts here, I have a couple of questions after reading through these posts
  1. Is there any way to tell resistive vs capacitive touch (I have 2015 RRS HSE)?
  2. Does CarPlay auto boot up if you plug in your phone or do you have to click on the app
    1. How does this work when you are using the wireless CarPlay?
    2. What I'm getting to is there any way to have the system boot straight to CarPlay?
  3. Do all the next track, volume hard buttons work on the steering wheel?
  4. Does the boot up system have to show the android logo? Can it just stay on the RR logo?
Thanks!
 
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