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Discussion Starter #1
When I turn the wheel or am driving and the car bounces or is perturbed I hear a scraping sound from the front driver wheel well. I have replaced the sway bar bushings and links, and the hub but no luck. Listening with my head under the well it sounds like it is coming from the hub / cv intersection (directionally). After replacing the hub it did seem to quiet a bit. I noticed that my brake rotor is fairly worn and probably has 3mm of lip on the outside.

I'm thinking of pulling off the caliper, hanging it up in the well and putting the wheel back on so I can see if it is rotor/pads related by turning the wheel (turning the wheel without having it weighted by the car doesn't cause any sound).

I was also thinking of inspecting the control arm bushings but am not sure what the best way to do that is, pry bar? wd40 sprayed?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update: used my dog leash to turn the steering wheel while sitting near the wheel well. It sounds like it is coming from the rotor/caliper but it is hard to say for certain. I tried hitting all the bushes with wd40 but to no avail. Going to try pulling the brakes later.
 

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Hi. I understand that I am a bit too late but I was advised to use silicone spray rather WD40 on rubber components due to WD40 being kerosene based and could negatively affect the rubber components integrity. how does the ball joint feels? you'd need to jack-up the side and try to see if there is a play in a ball joint on LCA and may be @ toe-rod end. if lubricant is gone, it may be working metal on metal between the ball itself and it's casing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
TLDR; woops WD-40, looks like sound is the lower air strut bolt / part of the strut that receives it.

Thanks, I realized after I posted that WD40 is not the way to go. I plan to follow up the areas with silicone again just to be safe. (I took it to a mechanic and he hit everything with silicone I believe).

The mechanic showed me that the squeak appears to be caused by the lubricated the lower control arm bolt that goes through the bottom of the air strut. Lubricating and re-setting it removed the squeak (albeit on a temporary basis). He advised me to replace the bolt as he could feel some scoring and to clean the part of the strut that receives the bolt (steel wool?) as it is likely dirt buildup (can confirm I hit some mud (not crazy but def splashed) in the week before this issue occurred and not surprised). AB indicated they don't have this bolt and I will need to consult the dealer.

The mechanic didn't seem fully convinced this was it or all of the noises were from this but time was short and I convinced them to squeeze me in, the bolt he greased/sprayed (hard to remember - yikes) seemed to alleviate the noise by and large.

I'm planning on adding the lucky8 bump stop extension kit soon (friday or after this weekend) and will plan to clean this bolt and lube it (silicone-moly grease is that correct?) during that process when I deflate the suspension and have the car up on stands.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/valvoline-multi-vehicle-moly-fortified-grease-141-ounce-vv633/7070013-p
 

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My friendly LR Tech prefers anti-cease compound in these joints.
I think this bolt is part of the LCA Hardware kit offered by AB, I am very surprised they did not know. If you look at the picture of the kit, there are two bolts that go trough each bushing and one, longer one, that go trough the lower bushing of the AirStrut.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Dealer has the bolt and nut for $30 so a bit more pricey since it doesn't come as a kit afaik... but there is the do it before the weekend factor lolol.
 

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When I turn the wheel or am driving and the car bounces or is perturbed I hear a scraping sound from the front driver wheel well. I have replaced the sway bar bushings and links, and the hub but no luck. Listening with my head under the well it sounds like it is coming from the hub / cv intersection (directionally). After replacing the hub it did seem to quiet a bit. I noticed that my brake rotor is fairly worn and probably has 3mm of lip on the outside.

I'm thinking of pulling off the caliper, hanging it up in the well and putting the wheel back on so I can see if it is rotor/pads related by turning the wheel (turning the wheel without having it weighted by the car doesn't cause any sound).

I was also thinking of inspecting the control arm bushings but am not sure what the best way to do that is, pry bar? wd40 sprayed?
Let me know what works best for you because i have a similar noise and t this point I'm going to replace my whole front end suspension as in upper and lower control arms and tie rods
 

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just keep in mind that AB is not the only option. I, personally, love dealing with FCPEuro guys as every part they sell comes with lifetime warranty even brake pads/rotors. They have better selection for 06-09 L320 but unfortunately not so much for 2010-2013 that I currently have. even if something isn't listed on Website, you may write to your rep to see if he/she can source it. Located in CT so pretty much second day delivery. Also, there is LRDirect, but they're in UK. Stuff comes relatively fast, under a week, but less expensive the US sellers, if you plan replacing major parts ahead of time works well. I had ordered all 4 corners LCAs and front struts from them and will order rear struts as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Good to know re the FCP warranty, gonna do the brakes soon anyhow so will take that route if they have em!

I replaced the lower control arm bolt yesterday per the discussion with the mechanic (and used anti-seize on it). I also used a shoe string to pull a bunch of steel wool through the air strut receiving hole for the bolt and then stick a drill with a flat round extension in and spin the lot. Did a bit to smooth the groove or any roughness then installed the bolt. A shoe string also helped pull the air strut down when I was jacking up the control arm, it got situated at an angle relative to it and then was just pushing up the air strut instead of aligning the holes for the new bolt. I used the shoe string around the air strut to hold it down while my friend jacked up the control arm. Job took me 1 hour or so (I do things slowly the first time). Hammering the bolt out was a lil tricky especially at the end when the weight of the air spring was torquing the bolt end. I ended up pulling my impact wrench and unthreading (even though there is no threading retaining it) and it helped pull the bolt out (push actually I think).

Then I put it in and back together and... the sound was still there, womp womp. Oh well I already planned to go to hungry valley and to stop letting this keep me off the trail, dodgy squeak and prestige be ****ed, I just wanna have fun. So we set off and ignored the squeak, had a great day. Today we did Rowher to Bouquet Reservoir and after a fairly steep downhill, during which there was some continuous squeaking while braking, for a bit... the noise stopped. I didn't quite realize til we were almost home, but the car is totally silent again now (relatively speaking lol).

I can't believe and fully expect to wake up in the morning and find it squeaky again. I'm not sure if the cause of the fix was hard braking to wear something on the pads/rotors smooth or cleaning. Or the bolt finally smoothed the dirt out of the air strut housing or the banging on the drops we took silenced some creaking bushing.

Everything seems to be quite well, and in lieu of absolute knowledge, it is good enough for me.

I plan to replace and upgrade the rotors/calipers soon and do some other 'routine' maintenance like air compressor desiccant, hydraulic filter, oil, trans fluid change. Also the rear control arm bushing is starting to clank. This labor of love never ends :)

I will update tomorrow after I've had the chance to drive a bit more.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
RRS bouquet.jpg
This was coming down to bouquet reservoir, pretty nice rock face. Shortly after this my front left dipped as a slowly crept down it and my right rear wheel went airborn... good times :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update: my creaking sound went away for a week but returned last weekend while on trail. I'm able to raise the car and stick my head under the well and it does sound like it is the lower control arm bolt (or something thereabouts). Turning the wheel always reproduces the squeak, so my thinking is the tie rod's rose joint (nee ball joint) is the culprit.

I'm going to get some white lithium grease and try to grease what I may (probably with a syringe).

I'm also going to ask a mate to try turning the wheel while I'm under so I can check for slop in the tie rod end.

I could try disconnecting the tie rod end and putting the vehicle in extended height as this reproduces the sound reliably, ideally if it is the tie rod end, having the inner arm disconnected should remove enough strain to prevent reproduction.

I've also considered a similar route for ruling out the brake pads/rotors (though I don't think it is them as it is bounce/steering dependent and continues while braking if the car bounces or I turn).

I've thought about pulling steering rack and looking for slop or sounds there (occasionally I hear the sound echo in through the passenger window also).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It strongly sounds like the culprit is the lower control arm ball joint based on listening while the wheel is turned (and feeling the vibrations). The rubber seal on it looks like it is pushed up on one side anyhow suggesting issue. I'm going to see if I can scrounge up some lithium and a needle but am tempted to pull the plug and just buy a new ball joint and replace it.

It looks like replacing the ball joint can be as simple as unbolting it and releasing it from the knuckle, then using a ball joint press/remover kit to push it out of the control arm. Does anyone have a link to a kit that fits the RRS?

I had the bushings re-pressed for this control arm a year ago but afaik the ball joint was not replaced. I'm assuming from a labor and cost standpoint it makes more sense to get the kit and press in a new ball / bushing. (I am the one who labors).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update: the ball joint was the culprit! No more squeaking.

Pressing out the ball joint was relatively easy though the kit I bought didn't fit at all as specified (pressed in opposite orientation to LR). I ended up putting different pieces together til I had something that worked.

Pressing the ball joint in... was a nightmare. I got the 23pc kit from autozone in addition to my 9pc kit and ended up spending like 6 hours. I had to use two identical thru sections of the pipe (with no collar or end) along with some pieces of 3/16" steel that I cut with my wheel as caps. Once I had the correct setup it wasn't too bad, though the 3/16" steel started bending and was almost problematic (I stacked two pieces once I got the ball joint slightly pressed enough for adequate C clamp clearance.

If I had to do this again I would most definitely just replace the entire control arm, which was comparatively easy. The value is much better considering the bushings get replaced also. One of my bushings is already starting to crumble on the outside :( so I'm sure I would I only did this as a challenge to myself and I'm happy to have solved it on the backside now.
 
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