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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I've been lurking here for a while and have been wanting to get offroad with my range. I went last weekend up to the Sierra Pelona Trail near me and had a blast. It was so exhilarating that I want to do more and have more capability.

To that end I've been considering tire upgrades and also getting differential bash guards.

In terms of tires right now I'm thinking 275/55r20. The frontrunner in terms of choices is the Cooper AT3 4S, which seems like it has more offroad capability than the Zeon LTZ . Either way I'm thinking of getting a Gap EASControl to make sure I can still enter access height. It seems like the EasControl has manual per-wheel suspension adjustment and also has most of the fault checking/clearing functionality of the more expensive IIDTool BT.

I have considered picking up a used set of 19" rims but I'm not sure if it will make much difference vs just getting 275/55r20. For me this car isn't a daily driver. I use it around the city but mostly I skateboard to work so I don't need to be super road capable but having it maintain some capability is desired. I've also considered getting an MT for most capability. If anyone can weigh in on 19 vs 20 assuming I'm adding EASControl and 275/55 or whatever the most aggressive 19 would be.

The other thing is I haven't hit a point where I felt like my car's traction capability was challenged, and so maybe I should just keep using stock til I feel like they don't perform to snuff. My hesitation of course is hitting a diff or cracking a rim from not having enough tire.

At the end of the day I'm wondering where the sweet spot of performance gain - money is. Compmotive are a bit expensive for me. I'm wondering if people think my 275/55R20 Cooper AT3 4s with EasControl is going to add much offroad capability over the stock RR sport tires I have now.
 

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2006 Range Rover Sport
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what tires do you have on there now? i ran the stock contis until it was time to swap them out then i upgraded to nittos on 18s when the time came. i did moderate offroading..enough to have fun. just stick to the limits of your skills as a driver and the vehicle and you should be fine until you make your choice.

as for the Gap tool, get the full IIDTool. EAS is just for electronic air suspension.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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As Phil stated I also have the Nitto G2s on 18in rims (275/65R18 32in diameter). However you will mot be able to run 18in rims over the Brembo brakes. As always you want as much tire between the road and the rim however check to make sure the tires you want come in 19in. Last I looked the choices of tires for 19in rims is limited. Get the GAP tool. You can program 3 different custom heights. As for the tires, you can squeeze 32in diameter tires in the wheel wells but that may require some work on the front of the rear wheel wells. A 2in lift should stop all rubbing in the rear. The fronts will be fine.
I don't think you will need a differential bash guard cause the front diff is protected and the rear is very substantial and rides high unless you frequent rock gardens. Your truck will do just about anything off-road depending on your tolerance for dents/scratches. The level of capability is restricted to the type tires... ATs will accomplish most of what you will do however mud can stop you dead. There are some great MTs that don't hum on the freeway and provide great mud traction and will give you a bit harder ride down the paved roads (10 ply tires). Enjoy the road less traveled and always off-road with at least 2 vehicles.
 

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2013 RS, 2017 FFRR
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All good info...just a note that the 18 inch Compomotive's will work on the larger S/C larger Brembo brakes in case you ultimately decide to go that route due to the lack of variety of tires in the 19 inch space. They are pricey and I love them on my new 2013, but had OEM 18's on my 06 (good for non S/C, won't work on S/C as said above), but if you're going to be playing offroad, it makes a world of difference to have 18's vs 19's with that much extra rubber...sometimes 1 inch is all you need to clear an obstacle of get stuck.

:geek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I went ahead and got the IIDTool BT, comes in today. I did Rowher trail to Bouquet Reservoir last weekend and after some of the tougher sections my stock tires have gotten fairly chewed up (but they didn't pop hooray!). I'm between getting 18" compos vs keeping my 20" at this point. I think either way my goal is to target 32". I'm just wondering about the pros and cons of getting the 18's. The biggest one is cost. I don't do much daily road driving with this and primarily intend to use it for road tripping and off roading. The additional $1750 for compos is substantial and I could basically keep my 20's and get full underbody protection for the $1750 I would spend on the wheels. I'm probably going to make a decision later today. Thinking 275 65R18 or 275 50R20 depending on which way it goes.
 

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Offroading with 20 inch tires is not a good option...for various reasons.

If you're really going to be offroading...you will end up with 18's...it will become obvious after a while.

The harshness of ride on 20's on rocky trails and boulders, with no ability to air down is your first indication...

If you have done offroad activities before, look to see what others are running...if this is your first occasion, I highly suggest you move to 18's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm going to do the 18" compos with 275 65 since I do want the max capability offroad (though I suppose I could probably go to 33 or 34" for max I think for now 32" with the 18" will be a substantial enough increase). I definitely felt jostled by rocks on the 20" tires.

My only fear is that the on-road acceleration and cornering will be diminished substantially, which is a trade off I'm willing to make, I'm just hoping the impact won't be too bad. What is your experience in that regard? Will it still be fun on twisty roads?

Now the question of which tire I should get?

My thinking is AT KO2 as most people seem to regard them as being strong tires and I don't anticipate I will be putting tons of miles on them but do want to subject them to rock beatings semi often (weekends mostly).
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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I highly doubt you will get anything larger than 32s on there unless you flair the wheel well and trim significant amounts of metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You mean because of access mode space restriction? I thought from reading the IIDTool website that ~+33mm max height could be added (up to a software limited 50mm) https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/faq/#collapse-1617. 31.5 + 1.3 would be 32.8".

My assumption was that for 32" I am going to need to add roughly 10-15mm height in all modes, and that's really what I want to validate is fine. Not that I'm seriously looking at 33" (but all these Baja vids I've been checking out do make me wonder about MT tires).

I'm hoping somehow I can shave the spare tire well and fit the 32" partially deflated (planning to keep my current spare rim and upsize the tire to match) and not need to stow it elsewhere.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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My Nitto Terra Grappler G2s were a bit over 32" when I bought them and they were rubbing in the rear wheel wells. The lift helped the rubbing some but the tires move forward as you raise the suspension due to the configuration of the lower control arm. This required triming in that area. This is lifted about 1.5" to 2". As it goes higher that gap closes and can get clogged up.
Check out Lucky8 (https://www.lucky8llc.com/). They stuffed some large tires in their L320. I think they were close ti 33". Not sure how they did it. Call them and see what they say. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I got the compos installed with bfg ko2 275/65 R18 (32"). I added +15mm (though I wonder if it was necessary, and will see about reducing it) with the IIDTool to start and set the wheel radius to 412mm (went by a speed trap and the readings seemed accurate). Clearance is ok in standard mode however I think there might be slight rubbing at the wheel turn extrema. The rear tires' front sides are definitely the issue for me as well. In access mode if the car rocks forward they will rub slightly (or maybe it is bumping up and down causing it), I can't feel it but can hear it.

The good news is I was able to fit the 275/55 R20 (31.9") wheel under the car with some deflation.

I didn't get to spend a lot of time with it by the time I got it done, but am excited to conduct some more in depth investigation tomorrow and possibly check out some dirt.

Do you have any pics showing the trimming you did? I'm curious about which spots
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Sorry, no pics of the fix in the rear wheel well. It was a weld seam that I hammered to the side then added some sheet metal screws to hold the plastic tight away from the tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I didn't get to do a dirt test today but I did some inspection. The front of the rear tires rubs very slightly against a flat section of the well in access mode (momentarily not constantly, it bumps it). I think heat molding the well just slightly will fix it, I can also run a higher raised profile (+25mm) when in access so it isn't a major issue.

At max rotation clockwise the front right wheel's inner rear tread edge rubs the edge of the frame that protrudes into the well, making a beating sounds as the treads hit it in all modes (with +15mm).

Dirty pic but hopefully there will be a dirtier one soon.I got two of the Ikon oem-style racks and plan to use 3 cross bars with a rail strip to hold ~160lb dynamic load. FSR Automatic 49 tent and their 78" awning should make overlanding a blast but I'm concerned with being top heavy.

IMG_20180909_191709_01.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Right now I'm trying to decide what the next things to get for off road readiness are. I got some x-bull traction recovery tracks (1 set) and a shovel. My goal is to be self reliant as much as possible since I plan on doing some extended solo overlanding trips in the future.

I'm thinking that since winches are expensive that I would get a hi-lift jack for the time being and would bear with grunting. My understanding is that a hi-lift jack is equivalent to an annoying manual winch (but also is more versatile for jacking or pulling from any direction you can attach to). It does seem like without having side rock sliders there isn't a place to jack from without a wheel lift mate (which I think should work with my rims). Still between buying a winch or getting rock sliders and a hi-lift jack my thinking is get the jack/sliders since that gives better underbody protection and more versatile jacking/winching capability for a similar price.

Does anyone know if you can jack off the standard points or even if it is safe to? I'm a bit worried with the rear point being close to important components if the jack should slip.

I also realize that if jacking on a hill alone the car can start to roll away suddenly, super crazy idea, but has anyone used their IIDControl as a bluetooth remote to engage the parking brake? Seems like a trust fall if there ever was one and a way to hate bluetooth even more if it goes amiss. I'm not sure if the IIDControl has the ability to lock the parking brake (best I can tell it can just set it into mounted service mode or back into normal but I'm unsure if it can lock it, theoretically the tool should be capable but whether it has been programmed to support that is another question. I reached out to GAP though I don't have high hopes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
An additional follow on thought, is whether to buy a deadmans sling or not. I plan to check out some dunes and figure that with the hi-lift would get me out of most situations.
 
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