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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2006 non-sport/ Full Size. Searched the forums and traced my R.E.P. down to what I believe is the mis-wired aux cooling pump for the supercharger. I want to look into this further, searched and searched to no avail. Can anyone show me a diagram of how to "properly" wire the connector. Also, where exactly is the aux cooling pump located? Diagram or picture is preferred. Still working on locating a service manual or service CD. Coming from the Audi scene (C5 A6 Stage 3 Twin Turbo) am used to the Bentley manuals on CD, but haven't found one for LR yet. Suggestions?!

My 50k warranty just expired, did LR issue a recall for this problem? If I take the truck to the dealer will they perform the repair (new aux cooling pump & re-wire the connector) under warranty/ or without any cost for me? Seems unfair for us to flip the cost on something that should have been done right in the first place.

Thanks in advance, I'm new to the Rover scene and like to perform my own service and maintenance.
Eric

F.Y.I. Forgot to mention; the Reduced Engine Performance only flashed one time (under heavy acceleration/boost for a mile or so), then it went away and never came back. I went to Auto Zone (today) and no codes were stored.?? Gotta be Aux Pump? I just cleaned the MAF, but am nervous about getting it on the highway and putting it under boost if the cooling pump is FUBAR.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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The TSB for the mis-wired S/C coolant pump is posted in the RRS forum, but applies to 06 and 07 S/C FFRRs as well, see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=31543&start=7 - that should help you at least to figure out if your car's VIn is within the range and to identify the correct wiring. There was no recall on this issue, so good luck getting a dealer to fix it under warranty if that turns out to be the problem and your factory coverage is up... But you never know. I don't believe Jag engined Range Rovers are covered in RAVE anymore, you may have to pay a fee at http://www.landrovertechinfo.com to view / print the relevant section(s) of the shop manual if you need additional instructions.

Did you actually feel the engine losing power as the warning light came on? I experienced something similar in the past myself (REP light on freeway at full speed, no power loss at all, although the car did stall after I came to a stop several miles later, long after the REP fault had extinguished on its own) on my normally aspirated 4.4 liter 2006 Sport... My fault was traced back to a bad MAF sensor by my trusty LR independent mechanic. So, it could be a number of things (the aux pump is definitely a chief suspect on a 2006 S/C engine, though.) I am a bit skeptical of Autozone being unable to pull up a code, if that fault light turned on a DTC should be stored.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
umbertob said:
The TSB for the mis-wired S/C coolant pump is posted in the RRS forum, but applies to 06 and 07 S/C FFRRs as well, see http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic. ... 43&start=7 - that should help you at least to figure out if your car's VIn is within the range and to identify the correct wiring. There was no recall on this issue, so good luck getting a dealer to fix it under warranty if that turns out to be the problem and your factory coverage is up... But you never know. I don't believe Jag engined Range Rovers are covered in RAVE anymore, you may have to pay a fee at http://www.landrovertechinfo.com to view / print the relevant section(s) of the shop manual if you need additional instructions.

Did you actually feel the engine losing power as the warning light came on? I experienced something similar in the past myself (REP light on freeway at full speed, no power loss at all, although the car did stall after I came to a top several miles later, long after the REP fault had extinguished on its own) on my normally aspirated 4.4 liter 2006 Sport... My fault was traced back to a bad MAF sensor by my trusty LR independent mechanic. So, it could be a number of things (the aux pump is definitely a chief suspect on a 2006 S/C engine, though.) I am a bit skeptical of Autozone being unable to pull up a code, if that fault light turned on a DTC should be stored.
Thanks for the thorough reply. Wow! The dealer is not owning up to the mis-wired aux pump...that sucks!

I definitely lost power. The truck went into what I would describe as, "limp mode" no power. I was accelerating passed 75+ (full boost) and R.E.F message displayed on the dash. I pressed the accelerator and nothing. I immediately signaled, pulled off of the highway, shut down the engine, pulled the key, wiped the tears from my eyes, and started the engine back up. All was normal again, no R.E.F. message and power was restored to normal. Scared the hell out of me. The described aux cooling pump TSB symptoms seem to detail my experience. Any chance you can message me a diagram of this aux cooling pump and its location?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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I'm afraid I don't have access to Range Rover shop manuals on TOPIx. But enclosed is the procedure to get to the supercharger cooling pump of the Sport hoping that, the engines being virtually identical, its general location will be the same on both cars. Note that the shop manual first calls for removal of the cooling fan to access the pump, and on the Sport that's no picnic without some long and skinny special tools. I'm kind of hoping the big guns here on the forum - RRPhil and a few others - chime in with their expertise and diagrams more appropriate for your specific model. Good luck!
 

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Coors
Friend of mine( 2006 S/C) had the loss power flashing , in fact i was driving the car then , and the issue was the miss wiring of the pump .
But we could not get the power back on the car , every time we re fired it , and had to be towed to dealer .
Good thing for my friend car had just been bought used with a warranty just 2 weeks before so all was taken care under warranty .
By the way if you have a miss wiring of the pump , then the pump needs to be changed .. that wahat LR did .

But my friend's car developped same issue after the wiring was cotrrected and the pump changed .

and after seraching annd seraching and using the LR data bank and even calling UK , they finally changed a fuse in a fuse box situated in the trunk ( yes there is one in the S/C ) which finally cured the whole issue .

So , as you could regain power , try to serach this fuse , sorry i don't know which one , maybe it will be enough .
And if that does niot work , then you will have to see a LR specialist with all the proper diagnosis .
and if yiou had to change the wiring , the pump , etc ;;; don't forget to have this fuse in the trunk fuse box controlled .

hoping to have helped .
Jaybear
 

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Discussion Starter #6
umbertob said:
I'm afraid I don't have access to Range Rover shop manuals on TOPIx. But enclosed is the procedure to get to the supercharger cooling pump of the Sport hoping that, the engines being virtually identical, its general location will be the same on both cars. Note that the shop manual first calls for removal of the cooling fan to access the pump, and on the Sport that's no picnic without some long and skinny special tools. I'm kind of hoping the big guns here on the forum - RRPhil and a few others - chime in with their expertise and diagrams more appropriate for your specific model. Good luck!
Thank you for sharing. I am going to bite the bullet and purchase the a manual. I'll let you you know what I find out. Just gotta find some free time to investigate this little gremlin.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
jaybear said:
Coors
Friend of mine( 2006 S/C) had the loss power flashing , in fact i was driving the car then , and the issue was the miss wiring of the pump .
But we could not get the power back on the car , every time we re fired it , and had to be towed to dealer .
Good thing for my friend car had just been bought used with a warranty just 2 weeks before so all was taken care under warranty .
By the way if you have a miss wiring of the pump , then the pump needs to be changed .. that wahat LR did .

But my friend's car developped same issue after the wiring was cotrrected and the pump changed .

and after seraching annd seraching and using the LR data bank and even calling UK , they finally changed a fuse in a fuse box situated in the trunk ( yes there is one in the S/C ) which finally cured the whole issue .

So , as you could regain power , try to serach this fuse , sorry i don't know which one , maybe it will be enough .
And if that does niot work , then you will have to see a LR specialist with all the proper diagnosis .
and if yiou had to change the wiring , the pump , etc ;;; don't forget to have this fuse in the trunk fuse box controlled .

hoping to have helped .
Jaybear
Thanks for the reply, Jaybear. Not sure about the fuse. If a fuse was blown, there should be other identifiers. I will take your advice and will check them to make sure they are all OK. Doesn't to look! Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
umbertob said:
I'm afraid I don't have access to Range Rover shop manuals on TOPIx. But enclosed is the procedure to get to the supercharger cooling pump of the Sport hoping that, the engines being virtually identical, its general location will be the same on both cars. Note that the shop manual first calls for removal of the cooling fan to access the pump, and on the Sport that's no picnic without some long and skinny special tools. I'm kind of hoping the big guns here on the forum - RRPhil and a few others - chime in with their expertise and diagrams more appropriate for your specific model. Good luck!
One more thing, how will I know if my aux pump connector is wired properly. Your diagram (which was extremely helpful) only gives instructions on how to gain access/service the pump. Can I just check for positive voltage to ground on each wire and which ever wire gives me voltage, should be the "+" wire. No? Thanks, E

Typed to soon, found this the other day. I cannot take the credit for what is mentioned below...

"Action: Should a customer express concern, modify the wiring at connector C3006 to the correct positions:
• Cavity 1 connected to "-" pump connection Black (B) Brown (N)
• Cavity 2 connected to "+" pump connection Brown / Purple (NP) Red / White (RW)
Install a new supercharger coolant pump as part of the repair if either the fault codes or the incorrect wiring is discovered following the repair."
 

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Keep in mind that there is a long long list of things that can cause a REP warning...some of them as simple as a low battery charge. If it happened one single time I wouldn't tear your car apart looking for a problem...I've had probably 25+ REP warnings in 5 years of owning my older (06) RR and it never represented a serious problem. Mind you it never actually resulted in a detectable reduction in engine performance.
 

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"Coors"
I had the very same issue on my 07 RR SC.
Same symptoms, I was able to shut off let the car cool for a while then go again with no issues for a few hours of highway running - 75 to 80 mph towing a 8 x 10 cargo trailer that was "full". Finished my trip and I limped back to Frisco Dallas where I lived at the time, my dealer replaced the item and haven't had any trouble since. I was still under the std factory warranty at that time.
My dealer in Frisco Dallas has been nothing but super helpful. Even now living in Canada I have called the Dallas dealer for help a couple of times when the local Edmonton dealer hasn't been too helpful (They are snooty because I didn't buy me car from them.......that's the BS they gave me when I first went to them for help)..

Good luck on the fix.
 

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Thanks for the reply, Jaybear. Not sure about the fuse. If a fuse was blown, there should be other identifiers. I will take your advice and will check them to make sure they are all OK. Doesn't to look! Thanks.[/quote]


Coors ; the beauty is that the fuse han't blown , but there was an uneven short with this fuse .

anyway checking this will not cost you and will ckllear one of the causes easily .
Courage !!
Jaybear
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I know I am beating this topic up, but I really want to rid my mind of this cooling pump issue. So, I compared my VIN to the "suspected" MY Vin's that were deemed affected. My VIN is not within range of the affected MY VIN's. I have a 02/06 build, with VIN; 6A226438. The TSB states, "A possibly related service bulletin (NASF TSB #LTB00041, Rev 2) entitled "Reduced Power Under Load" appeared, affecting the supercharged versions of the L322/LM and Range Rover Sport/LS Sport VIN numbers 6A901924 to 7A109767)" It seems my VIN number is not affected, only the later vehicles.

Yesterday, after I finished changing the oil, I decided to see if I could reset the "oil change due" light manually, (No Luck). When doing so, I noticed the aux cooling pump making this odd humming/buzzing/ticking noise almost like it was cycling (engine off, key in position two). After, 1-2 minutes it subsided. Not sure if this is normal? I just went down to see if I could record this noise, but it did not make any noise. Of, course! It just peaks my curiosity about this **** pump, even further. I guess I found my new hobby!!
 

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Coors said:
I have a 02/06 build, with VIN; 6A226438... supercharged versions of the L322/LM and Range Rover Sport/LS Sport VIN numbers 6A901924 to 7A109767)" It seems my VIN number is not affected, only the later vehicles.
You are misreading the TSB, that VIN range is for the Range Rover Sport S/C. The affected VIN range for the Range Rover S/C is 6A198058 to 7A261419, so your car is smack in the middle of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
umbertob said:
Coors said:
I have a 02/06 build, with VIN; 6A226438... supercharged versions of the L322/LM and Range Rover Sport/LS Sport VIN numbers 6A901924 to 7A109767)" It seems my VIN number is not affected, only the later vehicles.
You are misreading the TSB, that VIN range is for the Range Rover Sport S/C. The affected VIN range for the Range Rover S/C is 6A198058 to 7A261419, so your car is smack in the middle of that.
Ohhh! "umbertob" Thanks for clarifying. Well, looks like I am ordering a new aux pump. I will let you guys know how I make out. I really appreciate your help. Thanks. Eric Stay Tuned!
 

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Coors

So finally is the beast still alive . Did you chabnge the pump ?

Its always good to know if finally you cured the beast .

Jaybear
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I still have not had a chance to get into it. These days it seems as though every free second I have is reserved for someone or something else.

I really think the the cross-wired pump is the culprit. I was merging onto the highway the other day and stayed "on-it" just to test my theory. No sooner did I back off the throttle (approx 92mph - I love hearing that blower whine) did the "Reduced Engine Performance" light illuminate. Pulled over on the highway, shut down the engine, removed the key, and fired her back up. It has been fine since.

As soon as I have the time to get into I will post what I find and how I fixed it. Stay tuned!
E
 

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Any developments on this in 4 years and nearly 4 months?
Like what? There are many threads on "reduced performance" that should give you more than enough info to get started. There really isn't anything we can point you towards as we have no info on your rig.
 
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