RangeRovers.net Forum banner

41 - 47 of 47 Posts

·
Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
Joined
·
408 Posts
Sorry to resurrect an older thread, but how did you remove the heatshields? There is 1 screw at the top (easy) and 2 tabs at the bottom which mate to clips on the body. I don't see a release mechanism for the clips and pulling upward doesn't show any "give".

TIA


/alex
Yes - there is just one screw on top - and I used screwdriver to pry up the shield where you see the two clips at the bottom - I also couldn;t just pull it up , but it pries quite easily - then you can see where the two metal spring clips fit into the white nylon bushings - it is quite snug but does come out.
 

·
Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
Joined
·
408 Posts
I did the plugs in my 2006 4.4 V8 RRS this weekend ... I was following LR3 workshop manual - but that leaves a few details out for us inexperienced DIYers - a few more quick tips below.

1. Tools needed - 5/8" Plug socket with rubber boot, 6mm deep socket for engine cover, 8mm socket for coils, T20 driver/bit for PCV, ratchet wrench with 2x 3" or so extensions and also easier if you have a u-joint between the extensions. Screw Driver (large and small flat blade). Electrical connector spray (optional). Plug Gap tool (but see note #7 below)

2. I used step ladder for easier access & towel over front and side of truck to protect the paint

3. Remove engine cover (6mm deep socket and 1/4 ratchet) - the screws are nylon underneath and don;t need too many turns to release. Take off oil cap, lift cover sraight up, put back oil cap

4. There is plastic cover over the coils, start on passenger side. The cover pops off, lift about 1/3 and 2/3 down its length from the top - I used screw driver for leverage under the cover. (On passenger side, you also need to remove PCV - the round plastic thing at front of coil over. Two torx scews, squeeze connecter on front hose and
remove hose, and wiring bundle uses plastic rivet (I had to cut the bottom of that off after lifting PCV body to remove - but it should just lift out ). PLUG HOLE THAT PCV came out of with shop towel so you don;t drop anything in there ! I ordered new PCV from rock auto - Airtex Wells - made in Germany !

5.Now you can see the coils, work on one coil/plug at a time. The electrical connectors are a bit tricky. You can oress at the back of the plastic tab, and try and slide the connector back - but I found I needed the extra leverage of lifting the front of the tab up with a small screw driver (while pressing down at the back) and using the large blade driver to leverage the body of the connector out slowly (side to side). The connectors do come off - but starting at the front gives you practice with the best access - the rear ones are a bit harder to reach.

6. The first two coils on both sides lift up with no access issues. I needed to unclip the two long rubber hoses running to rear of car on passenger side (there is clip near battery cover you squeeze in to release) to give some extra room for coil #3, and had to push the hoses towards the engine and lift coil #4 out behind the hoses. It's a big tight but you can wiggle the coil up.

7.Original plugs were NGK Iridium. Order those, or to save some $$, I got Champion Iriduim from Atlantic British. Visuallly check gap on new plugs - if they are obviuosly off compared to the old ones - be careful with the gap tool - its easy to damage those small tips.

8. To remove old plug, best to use plug socket with rubber boot to grip plug, put socket down hole with 3" extension on it, the put second 3" extension on (or have that connected with u-joint to give you clearance). My old plugs came out quite easily (if you have compressed air you could blow out the hole before removing plug, but the hole is pretty well sealed by the coil, so there shouldn;t be anything in there). To put new plug in, hand tighten with same socket/3" extensions - and then torque to 18 lb/ft - (or follow hand tight plus 1/4 turn or whatever it said on the plug packet). Don;t want to damage the heads by over-tightning or blow the plug out by under-tight. I didn;t use anti-sieze on the plug thread - since that messes with your torque specs. (maybe a master-tech can comment on that - but also I probably will never need to do the plugs again at this point !).

You could also use some contact spray on the coil tubes and connectors (I didn;t have any handy - but nothing looked corroded so I should be ok )


9. On driver side - you need to remove heat shield to get access at the back - there is one screw on top of the shield and then I used screw driver to leverage the two shield clips you can see at the bottom up (there are metal clips on the shield that sit in two white nylon holders).

10. Rear coil on driver side is hardest to get out , I had to put quite a bit of pressure on it to "twist" it out of its hole - but it did come out and go back it.

11. WIth PCV back on (need to put passenger side coil cover on first) - Start car and check it idles smoothly and no CEL. Then put rest of covers back on and open a 6 pack of Firestone 805 or DBA.

Cheers -
 

·
Registered
2006 Range Rover Sport 2016 Mercedes S550 4MATIC
Joined
·
120 Posts
I did the plugs in my 2006 4.4 V8 RRS this weekend ... I was following LR3 workshop manual - but that leaves a few details out for us inexperienced DIYers - a few more quick tips below.

1. Tools needed - 5/8" Plug socket with rubber boot, 6mm deep socket for engine cover, 8mm socket for coils, T20 driver/bit for PCV, ratchet wrench with 2x 3" or so extensions and also easier if you have a u-joint between the extensions. Screw Driver (large and small flat blade). Electrical connector spray (optional). Plug Gap tool (but see note #7 below)

2. I used step ladder for easier access & towel over front and side of truck to protect the paint

3. Remove engine cover (6mm deep socket and 1/4 ratchet) - the screws are nylon underneath and don;t need too many turns to release. Take off oil cap, lift cover sraight up, put back oil cap

4. There is plastic cover over the coils, start on passenger side. The cover pops off, lift about 1/3 and 2/3 down its length from the top - I used screw driver for leverage under the cover. (On passenger side, you also need to remove PCV - the round plastic thing at front of coil over. Two torx scews, squeeze connecter on front hose and
remove hose, and wiring bundle uses plastic rivet (I had to cut the bottom of that off after lifting PCV body to remove - but it should just lift out ). PLUG HOLE THAT PCV came out of with shop towel so you don;t drop anything in there ! I ordered new PCV from rock auto - Airtex Wells - made in Germany !

5.Now you can see the coils, work on one coil/plug at a time. The electrical connectors are a bit tricky. You can oress at the back of the plastic tab, and try and slide the connector back - but I found I needed the extra leverage of lifting the front of the tab up with a small screw driver (while pressing down at the back) and using the large blade driver to leverage the body of the connector out slowly (side to side). The connectors do come off - but starting at the front gives you practice with the best access - the rear ones are a bit harder to reach.

6. The first two coils on both sides lift up with no access issues. I needed to unclip the two long rubber hoses running to rear of car on passenger side (there is clip near battery cover you squeeze in to release) to give some extra room for coil #3, and had to push the hoses towards the engine and lift coil #4 out behind the hoses. It's a big tight but you can wiggle the coil up.

7.Original plugs were NGK Iridium. Order those, or to save some $$, I got Champion Iriduim from Atlantic British. Visuallly check gap on new plugs - if they are obviuosly off compared to the old ones - be careful with the gap tool - its easy to damage those small tips.

8. To remove old plug, best to use plug socket with rubber boot to grip plug, put socket down hole with 3" extension on it, the put second 3" extension on (or have that connected with u-joint to give you clearance). My old plugs came out quite easily (if you have compressed air you could blow out the hole before removing plug, but the hole is pretty well sealed by the coil, so there shouldn;t be anything in there). To put new plug in, hand tighten with same socket/3" extensions - and then torque to 18 lb/ft - (or follow hand tight plus 1/4 turn or whatever it said on the plug packet). Don;t want to damage the heads by over-tightning or blow the plug out by under-tight. I didn;t use anti-sieze on the plug thread - since that messes with your torque specs. (maybe a master-tech can comment on that - but also I probably will never need to do the plugs again at this point !).

You could also use some contact spray on the coil tubes and connectors (I didn;t have any handy - but nothing looked corroded so I should be ok )


9. On driver side - you need to remove heat shield to get access at the back - there is one screw on top of the shield and then I used screw driver to leverage the two shield clips you can see at the bottom up (there are metal clips on the shield that sit in two white nylon holders).

10. Rear coil on driver side is hardest to get out , I had to put quite a bit of pressure on it to "twist" it out of its hole - but it did come out and go back it.

11. WIth PCV back on (need to put passenger side coil cover on first) - Start car and check it idles smoothly and no CEL. Then put rest of covers back on and open a 6 pack of Firestone 805 or DBA.

Cheers -
I'm planning to change the spark plugs myself, trying to get tools ready. As for the "5/8" Plug socket with rubber boot " mentioned in your post, will this one work?
LEXIVON 5/8" Swivel Magnetic Spark Plug Socket, 3/8" Drive x 6" Total Length | Enhanced Magnetic Design with Thin Wall Socket, Cr-v Steel (LX-121)

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
Joined
·
408 Posts
I didn’t need to remove the shield - just in inclip and push/bend it back a little .... u-joint on the socket extension as goosey said.

btw - I used the champion plat plugs - and after 20k miles - no issues.
 

·
Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
Joined
·
408 Posts
Actually - I take that back - I did remove shield - look at my previous diy description in this thread - used screwdriver to lever out of the white nylon clips
 

·
Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
Joined
·
408 Posts
As for the tool - I’m not sure ujoint on that one would be at right height - get a regular mag plug socket from auto parts store - and then have a 3” and 6” extension for your normal ratchet.... and get a u joint that will sit between the extension bars .... torque wrench takes guess work out when reinstalling plugs (I just use cheapo one from harbor freight)
 
41 - 47 of 47 Posts
Top