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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering if anyone has a write up or any tips on the replacement procedure? I have concluded from reading a number of posts on various forums that most seem to change out at 75k to maintain "good" performance.
Thanks,
Michael
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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5,175 Posts
I think its a good idea and I'll be doing mine @ 75K. The service guide has them being changed at 105,000 mi. I'm always a bit skeptical of the 100K plug (and lifetime fills 'n stuff). I recently changed plugs in another vehicle at 75K (also the 100K variety) and definitely noticed an improvement in mileage and drivability.

Stay with the oem plug brand model #, and make sure you use a torque wrench to put them in.

I have not done it in mine yet, but I'm sure someone here can pull the procedure (and torques) from the site.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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4,456 Posts
I did my own plugs around 70K if I remember. One key obviously is to take off the engine cover and also remove the heat shields on the side of the engine, that allows easier access.

Having said that, it's not as easy to get them all out as on other vehicles, particularly those 4 closest to the firewall as the angle is a bit awkward and you have to be careful not to bend the unit....however, with patience and gentle coaxing, it can be done. It took me about 2 hours to do them all...but I was being cautious not to break anything.

Probably easier to get your local independent shop to do it in my opinion for the next time around.

cheers.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #4
i am also wanting to do the dif fluid and check into the tranny fluid and filter. I too am not comfortable with the 100k designation on spark plugs. I did pick up the LR set of plugs and am told that the gap is .045.
Thanks,
Michael
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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5,175 Posts
Paul, welcome back!

Ditto on the F and R diff fluid--get that from the dealer. Its only like $8/qt. You'll want access to a lift for that though. I had my local shop do it and took him the instructions posted on here. There's a link on here for the procedure--just do a search.

On those pesky back plugs, a trick I learned once was if you need to use a u-joint on the socket extension, wrap the u-joint with a layer of electrical tape, its just enough so its not flopping around on you, and you can locate the plug hole easier.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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gooseyloosey said:
Paul, welcome back!

Ditto on the F and R diff fluid--get that from the dealer. Its only like $8/qt. You'll want access to a lift for that though. I had my local shop do it and took him the instructions posted on here. There's a link on here for the procedure--just do a search.

On those pesky back plugs, a trick I learned once was if you need to use a u-joint on the socket extension, wrap the u-joint with a layer of electrical tape, its just enough so its not flopping around on you, and you can locate the plug hole easier.
Thanks Mike...hard to adjust back to "real life" again after a great vacation, but nice to see everything here still rolling smoothly. Tip above is right on target, the challenge I had was mostly on getting the spark plug cover back into the hole, as the plugs themselves are easy to get to...helps to have some sticky tape on the socket itself to "lift" the plug out of the deep hole as well.

Cheers!
 

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For those that have changed the plugs, did you get the plugs from the dealer or buy an alternate and possibly better plug.

Alldata specs show the GAP at 1.0 mm (0.039 in). So does that make a big diff than what was mentioned above of .045. Is it even necessary to adjust the Gap on these platinum plugs?
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #9
I had gotten the OEM plugs from Atlantic British and the gap setting came from my LR dealer.
I see that the plugs are currently on sale at AB.
Michael
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Frisco_TX_RRS said:
For those that have changed the plugs, did you get the plugs from the dealer or buy an alternate and possibly better plug.

Alldata specs show the GAP at 1.0 mm (0.039 in). So does that make a big diff than what was mentioned above of .045. Is it even necessary to adjust the Gap on these platinum plugs?
Frisco,
I'm pretty sure NGK makes the oem plug and it shows a 0.039 gap.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/

They are pretty high performance Iridium plugs, how much higher in performance were you planning to go? :D
 

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Goosey, you are right the NGK is a .039 gap. I was thinking of the Bosch +4 or fusion and if it might fit in this vehicle. I've read some folks have use it in the discovery and been satisfied - just need to find the specs.
 

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Trying to replace my plugs and can't seem to get the black cover off that sits on top of the coil \ under the engine cover. Before I put any undue force, was wondering if anyone had a better way of removing that. Could not locate the 2 clips that secures it.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Frisco,

Do you mean the black engine cover or something below that?

You shouldn't have to take off anything else besides the black engine cover and the heat shields to make for easier access.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #14
Sorry to be late to the conversation! I have not actually done the plugs yet. I was waiting for the 90k milestone and it has arrived. What I'm told by a friend at the LR dealer is the that thin cover "pops" off. I actually tried on the drivers side front corner and it did, so i promptly put it back down. Also, I was mistaken on the gap setting for the plugs, but i see that that error was detected and subsequently corrected.
Michael
 

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Thanks Mshaw - Mine did not pop off - seemed to be fastened pretty tight from the lower portion of the cover and did not want to put too much force and break any clips if there were any.

So did you lift from the bottom upwards -or pull from the top ...or ....?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
More towards the bottom and the front side. I too felt like I was going to break it. But, it did come free. Sorry that I haven't actually taken the whole shield off as of yet. Probably this weekend and I'll post what happens.
Michael
 

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Thanks Michael - will try again tomorrow AM. Will let you know if I break it or got it off safely.

So there must be some type of clips \ fastener - one by the lower front and another by the lower back\rear.
 

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2016-2018 Range Rover MkIV / L405
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254 Posts
One thing I would add is to blow out holes with compressed before removing the plug to make sure there are no loose objects present.

Also, LR dealer recommends having the replacement plug in hand ready to re-install after removing the old plug.
 

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The black cover just needed some extra force to be popped off. The drivers side came off pretty easy, actually used a screwdriver as leverage and it popped off. The passenger side, I unscrewed the PCV housing, that allowed the cover to cover off easier and better access to the plugs.

It took more time to remove the the connector than to replace the plugs. Trick I found was, use a very small pick or screwdriver used for glasses. Place that on the edge of the tab and pull up very gently and wiggle the connector back from the wires - comes off much easier.

The rear driver side was the hardest to torque down.

Goosey may say I told you so based on another thread....the plugs at 72K were in good shape - will post a pic if anyone is interested of the used plugs.

Off to the next maintenance chore ...
 
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