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'06 RRS Front Brake and Rotor Replacement

4K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  gooseyloosey 
#1 ·
It has been nice reading about others experiences and it has helped me in the past, but now I have a question related to the replacement of the front brake pads and rotors. I have a question directed to the procedure...once the vehicle is raised and placed on jackstands, the wheels are removed, the removal of the 2 21mm bolts holding on the caliper carrier did not do much else other than free up the assembly. I could not slide the entire assembly off the rotor to begin replacing the brake pads followed by the rotor replacement. The rotor can be spun, so I do not think the brakes are engaged?
My rotors are definitely showing signs of "lipping" at the edges. Is this contributing to the problematic removal? Is there a trick I am not aware of? Or, is it better to remove the 2 12mm caliper pins first and swing the calipers out of the way of the carrier before removing the 2 21mm carrier bolts? Will I have the same problem with the caliper not sliding off the rotor easily?
Thanks in advance.
Michael
 
#3 ·
First, let me thank the support I have gotten from the group! With the excellent write up on brake and rotor change out my task was made much easier as if I had already done the job before I started.
I would like to add a few tips if I may; the "bike" wrench I agree is the way to go. You can purchase them individually or there are some double sided versions. Keep this in mind since the front and back caliper nuts are different sizes.
Also, I was dreading having to pull down the wheel liner to get at the connection for the wear sensor figuring that I would brake it even being very careful. So, after trying the wiggle trick and not being totally successful, a few observations about pulling down the wheel well liner. Make sure that you have a large rag covering your newly installed brake pads and rotors to prevent any "road stuff" getting in what you just have cleaned up. I had about 6-8 black plastic retainers along with 3-4 screws. The trick I found with the black plastic retainers was to carefully pull out the center portion pin and then the collar that it pushes into. These are simple expanding plastic mollie bolts. The center pin expands the tabs on the inside of the liner. I'm sure there is a special tool for this task, but I used a small flat blade screw driver to carefully pry out the center bolt a little, and then grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers. when replacing , push the collar back into place and then the center pin.
I noticed a rubber plug on the wheel liner about 2.5" -3" in diameter. I got to thinking, this would have been a better engineering solution in the location of the brake sensor plug?
Thanks again!
Michael
 
#4 ·
Glad to hear it went well. And thanks for the additional tips on the liner. :thumb: In fact could you post your last post on the linked thread if you don't mind--it's good info!

Yes, I agree...anybody who's messed with that front sensor could think of 100 other ways to do that easier vs. the one LR ended up with :lol:

Anyone know if they improved that on the '10's???
 
#5 ·
gooseyloosey said:
Glad to hear it went well. And thanks for the additional tips on the liner. :thumb: In fact could you post your last post on the linked thread if you don't mind--it's good info!

Yes, I agree...anybody who's messed with that front sensor could think of 100 other ways to do that easier vs. the one LR ended up with :lol:

Anyone know if they improved that on the '10's???
I believe LR has gone with the no-sensor required anymore route...1 stop straight shot from good brakes to no brakes!

`) `)
 
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