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This is the first time ever I am posting in a forum so Hi everybody.

I bought it 4 months ago with original 66k miles. Thinking it was going to be reliable except for expected aging rubber hoses, bushings etc.

However, so far

1- I have a leaking front differential (no noise) I found a dealership receipt in the vehicle from 2015 when it had 55k miles and it clearly says leaking front carrier and it needs immediate repair. So previous owner disregarded it and drove it another 11k miles. I drained the differential and only 0.2 litre came out. I topped it off to 0.6 litre. (But I am very concerned because of the horror stories of front tires locking up if differential fails)

2- Leaking rear differential seal on passenger side (no noise). I drained it and exactly 1.1 litres came out.

3- 2nd to 1st gear harsh jerk. I checked the software version from navigation screen. It dates 2005 (I don’t know if it’s the right way of checking it) so I assume it needs the transmission software update.

4- Front left CV axle busted. I put a rebuilt one for $65.

5- Right CV axle started clicking lately. There goes another $65 + my precious 1 hour.

6- Majorly leaking sunroof. I literally got soaking wet in a drive-in car wash. I haven’t looked into it yet.

7- Front drivers window quit working. I circuit Tested the current all the way to window motor so it seems that the problem is the switch/relay attached to the window motor itself. I give 12v directly into the motor and it works. Dealer does not sell the attached relay separately so I have to buy a new window motor just to use the detachable relay on my window motor.

I won’t even mention the clock spring throwing codes

Would love to hear your opinions
 

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1: drive a thousand miles and change the fluid again and look for metal debris/shavings. If there are no shavings, glitter etc fix the seals and go on your way.

2: same

3: you have to research if there were any updates. could just use a service.

4: already fixed

5: if $65 is a nonissue. Wait until you have a MAF sensor fail at $240. As a DIY person you are going to be spending days going through all the systems on a poorly maintained rig like this verifying the the condition of everything and completing all of the maintenance items so that you have a baseline starting point.

6: Covered ad nauseum, clean the drains.

7: Why would you purchase from the dealer? Look at the usual suppliers for the window regulator with motor. I doubt the motor is sold separately. However I am confused that you have power at the harness and the motor operated with direct power but not when plugged in. Does operate both directions with direct power?

Clock spring. The rotary coupler does not nor could it throw codes. If it is failing it is the various functions that would fail to operate and I believe the only one to throw an actual error code... would be an open SRS circuit during self test. Things like heated steering wheel horn, radio functions and cruise control are not monitored system so would have no way of logging errors.
 

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Items 6 and 7 are directly correlated...and have been covered as well. Your sunroof drains are clogged, so the passenger footwell is likely soggy now or has been in the past. That leads to the corroded wires under the hard plastic cover on the passenger side where the wiring loom is, once you fix the corroded wires at the couplers here, your windows will work again. There are threads and pics on this on the forum...
 

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Items 6 and 7 are directly correlated...and have been covered as well. Your sunroof drains are clogged, so the passenger footwell is likely soggy now or has been in the past. That leads to the corroded wires under the hard plastic cover on the passenger side where the wiring loom is, once you fix the corroded wires at the couplers here, your windows will work again. There are threads and pics on this on the forum...

I thought wiring issue on the passenger side applied if both front windows quit working. Mine is only driver window. I use a probe tester on following

1: plug that comes from window switch and there is current which means I get signal from window switch to open and close

2: on window motor WITHOUT the switch/relay attached and motor works (+ -)

3: on window motor WITH the switch/relay attached and no current.

Also there is black residue on relay which I think indicates that it’s fried. Or maybe I am wrong.

I will try to attach pictures right now
 

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1: drive a thousand miles and change the fluid again and look for metal debris/shavings. If there are no shavings, glitter etc fix the seals and go on your way.

2: same

3: you have to research if there were any updates. could just use a service.

4: already fixed

5: if $65 is a nonissue. Wait until you have a MAF sensor fail at $240. As a DIY person you are going to be spending days going through all the systems on a poorly maintained rig like this verifying the the condition of everything and completing all of the maintenance items so that you have a baseline starting point.

6: Covered ad nauseum, clean the drains.

7: Why would you purchase from the dealer? Look at the usual suppliers for the window regulator with motor. I doubt the motor is not sold separately. However I am confused that you have power at the harness and the motor operated with direct power but not when plugged in. Does operate both directions with direct power?

Clock spring. The rotary coupler does not nor could it throw codes. If it is failing it is the various functions that would fail to operate and I believe the only one to throw an actual error code... would be an open SRS circuit during self test. Things like heated steering wheel horn, radio functions and cruise control are not monitored system so would have no way of logging errors.

1: actually it has been 1266 miles since I changed the front differential fluid so today I changed it again and there is tiny metal shavings, fluid is clear. (What I didn’t mention in my original post was that during my first differential fluid change I noticed major gunk build up about an inch on drain plug which I removed with good amount of force and also there was tiny metal shavings)

7: front right window motor: I posted pictures. There is black residue around the relay. I used a probe tester. I need your opinion. My dealer wholesale price on window motor is $146 but I just want to make sure before spending money. It’s not the amount of dollars but misdiagnosing the issue.

I see the clock spring code on my autel scanner. Otherwise it does not throw any warning lights.

And last but not the least , today I noticed erratic idle (50 rpm) MAF on its way out maybe like you said? ?? or maybe I am being paranoid.
 

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Driver's window, both windows, electrical seat movement are all affected by water in the sill on the passenger side due to blocked sunroof drains. Depends on which connector has been corroded. You have to be patient, and pull up all of them, I recall patching at least 4-5 connectors under there, now on 2 occasions over the years, and they solved the window issues. The window switch itself never turned out to be a problem.

YMMV. Good luck sleuthing!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey PJPR01,

I feel like a total fail. I gave it a try and IT WORKED!!! Since you are a Houstonian you would understand that I was literally taking 99 grand parkway to go to downtown from woodlands INSTEAD OF i45 south. Thank you so much!!! And shame on me for not listening!!!! ????
 

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What Pcode is your "Autel" giving you for a faulty clockspring? Again, the rotary coupler has no sensor, so it is not monitored by the on board diagnostics so it is physically impossible to log a code. Diagnosing a failing clockspring usually takes a pretty major failure in one of the various functions on the wheel. Even then is can be a failed button or cracked ribbon cable for one bank of buttons. Does your Autel read Land Rover sub systems or is it just generic? It may be seeing an SRS errors and saying it is a clockspring issue without displaying a proper code.
 

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What Pcode is your "Autel" giving you for a faulty clockspring? Again, the rotary coupler has no sensor, so it is not monitored by the on board diagnostics so it is physically impossible to log a code. Diagnosing a failing clockspring usually takes a pretty major failure in one of the various functions on the wheel. Even then is can be a failed button or cracked ribbon cable for one bank of buttons. Does your Autel read Land Rover sub systems or is it just generic? It may be seeing an SRS errors and saying it is a clockspring issue without displaying a proper code.
My scanner is nowhere near IDS SDD but pretty decent. I can reprogram most brands but it's not that good with jags and rovers. I don't recall the exact code but soon as it pops up again I will save the log.

Also should I go with a used front differential from an 08 or 09? I would like to take it on an 800 miles family trip but the shavings concern me.
 

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Find the latest year (2009 for HSE) and lowest mileage differential possible. Make sure that it's 2005+ with gear ratio 3.73
2010+ front diffs on both HSE and Supercharged are 3.54 gear ratio so they will only work on the 2006-2009 supercharged
and will Not work for the HSE /:(. I put a 2011 front diff in my 06 supercharged - smooth and quite as silk....
 

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I looked all over and seems like there is no 09 front differentials Available in salvage yards. Supercharged differentials are widely available and prices extremely reasonable ($300 etc.) so for now I will keep searching and in the meantime I will just take my wife’s Subaru Outback for the trip.
 

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Check out eBay many 06-09 rover front diffs/carriers there as well, Good luck and have a super time in that Subaru!
Thanks! Subaru is nice too. Low maintenance dependable. It has all the bells and whistles but still not my taste. My wife is the tree hugger of the family. When i drive the rover it feels like i am driving my old 2010 s550 except i am sitting higher to the ground.
 

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http://www.roverlandparts.com/2006-2008-range-rover-differential-assembly---front-sport.aspx

Best place I have dealt with on buying bigger ticket items...check to see if they have them in stock. HOwever, in your case, unless you are hearing howling noises, I'd just fill it again with fresh fluid, there will always be a bit of accumulation on the drain plug of small bits. The best you can do with these vehicles is change the front/rear diff fluids every 30K miles. Because the diffs are somewhat small on volume, it's cheap maintenance to drain and fill more regularly, plus you don't know how vigorously the vehicle was driven by the prior owner. Recommend also doing the transfer case and transmission as well at 75k intervals.

With regards to software transmission reflash, I'd recommend you buy the GAP IID tool...(bluetooth version), you can reset all the learning parameters yourself, and save a ton over visits to the dealer for regular resets and it will read all of the codes for you...super easy and user friendly view on your smartphone.

Glad you're making progress here...
 

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I was away for awhile so I couldn’t respond. Thank you for the link and all the suggestions. I will go ahead and get the GAP IDD. Currently I am using autel maxisys (attached picture) it works miracles with my other cars like the Volvo and the e550 Benz. I can download data directly from their servers but unfortunately not the rovers and jags.
 

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After a month and a half later, I finally got the chance to work on my following issues,

2nd to 1st gear harsh downshift

Erratic downshift on speeds between 60 and 80mph

Front of my RRS was almost half an inch higher than rear.

After a through research, I downloaded SSD and paid one day subscription of $84 to connect to Land Rover servers.

Connected my laptop to our j2534 and to my vehicle. Result: Disaster!!! Tcm became brick. Transmission in limp mode.

After 1 hour of research, I decided to use VCM2 which we use on Ford's. I had to downgrade it to be able to connect to my RRS. Result: Bingo!!!

Updated tcm and ecm module with latest updates, I recalibrated the suspension heights by using a tape measure then enter values to SSD.

MY TRUCK RUNS AND DRIVES LIKE NEW, no shifting issues and finally front of the vehicle is as high as the rear.
 

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