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Discussion Starter #1
I am on my 3rd set of front brake rotors in 10,000 miles and this 3rd set is just starting to vibrate as well. I have gone through one set of Eurospare's and am on a 2nd set of Pilenga's. The last time I replaced the brake pads as well with a Ferodo pad set. I performed the brake bed in procedure after replacement and have been taking it easy on them aside from a few moderately brisk stops my wife has come to on the highway. It seems like they are warping extremely easily. I am strongly considering using Genuine Land Rover brake rotors but wanted to check to see if anyone else has had issues with this? I should also note that all the front ball joints, control arms, air struts and tie rods are new and the wheels and tires have been recently replaced and aligned.

Thanks!
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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As a test drive the truck for a few miles with a few easy stops then use the trans and E brake to stop,
after a few more miles then use your IR gun to test the rotor temps if they are super hot the brakes are dragging,
indicating the flex lines could be bad, or the calipers need to be replaced or the MC has swelled seals.

I would suggest that you replace the front brakes with the supercharged versions for your year,
NOTE you have to use the SC brakes from pre 2009.

If you mixed the brake fluid in your system there is a chance the MC may also be damaged and it should be replaced ,
only use Rover fluid to insure continued performance
 

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2013-2015 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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166 Posts
du the brake pads bedding procedure, it cured my brake vibration>

Brake pad bedding is an important process that removes impurities from the surface of the brake pad and lays down a thin layer of pad residue on the rotor surface. This is accomplished through repeated heated and cooling during braking. These cycles are like Goldilocks and the three bears: temperatures need to be just right to prevent scarring of the brake pad and rotor surfaces, or uneven pad transfer. Follow these easy guidelines and enjoy quiet, smooth and long-lasting braking. While every manufacturer has a different method for bedding in their brake pads, the basics remain the same—regardless of brand.

  • Find an open stretch of road that will allow you to safely stop your vehicle multiple times
  • Accelerate to 35 mph and apply moderate brake pressure to reduce your speed to 5-10 MPH
  • Repeat this process 3-4 times, the goal is to warm up your brake pads
  • Now turn up the heat even more by increasing your speed to 45 mph and braking down to 10 mph
  • Repeat this process 3-4 times
    • Pro Tip: It’s important to avoid coming to a complete stop during this stage as it’s possible to melt brake pads against hot rotors. Of course, should a deer, pedestrian or Sasquatch run onto the road, feel free to mash the brake pedal. Safety first!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I recently replaced the pads on my P38 and the instructions that came with them only said to drive normally and avoid hard stops for the first 200km. I would just follow the manufacturers recommended procedure, either what is in the box or on their website.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all the replies! I am on a several month long road trip and am away from all of my tools and equipment so I don't have the ability to do any trouble shooting or checking with a infrared temperature gun. The wheels all roll fine and it does't pull one way or the other when braking. Everything looked to be in good condition when I changed the brakes. I am thinking the aftermarket rotors just can't take the weight of our rig (It is equipped with a roof top tent, camping gear, 7 gallons of water, my wife and I) but it seems odd that they would warp that easily. Upgrading to the supercharged brakes might be the way to go as the stock equipment does feel underrated to me as it is. Please chime in if anyone else has had issues with aftermarket brake rotors warping on these rigs.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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based on further info smart money would tell you to replace the front brakes with the supercharged versions,
use either Range Rove discs or EBC discs and EBC greenstuff pads.
If you buy less expensive rotors they are made cheaper and thus the materials used will NOT give the longest service
 

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I've had very good results with ebay pads (cheap) for street use and some intelligence at the wheel (and shifter).

But this OP situation is bonkers. 1 check the pistons on the front calipers. I did my A8L I could move them by hand
2. Check the REAR brakes. If all you are using is the front with the rears blocked up, that can overheat the fronts

I don't think rotors actually warp - it's a surface issue.
 
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