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Picked this up at 89k miles from copart auction for $4k. Clean title. Primary damage was mechanical issue so I figured it could be starter, air suspension, air compressor, fuel pump or toasted engine. I have an 04 HSE so I knew what I was getting into. Day 1 I replaced the battery and did a full oil and filter and spark plugs change as I wanted to start out fresh. It cranked but did not start. Day 2 I Tried spraying starter fluid but still a no-start. Day 3 Did compression test and found 2 dead cylinders (0) and 4 super low compressions (30). Problem#1 is Inadequate compression. Day 4 Well I decided to tear apart the engine to see what I was dealing with. Took off both head cylinders and noticed that there was puddle of fuel just sitting on top in the cylinders. Problem #2 is Failed or Open Injectors. Day 5 I noticed the cylinder walls were badly scratched/scored making the block a junk block. Not sure if it was due to cranking the car too much with no start which flooded the combustion chamber. From my research the M62TU or M62 are alusil and do not do well with excessive fuel. Problem #3 is Scored cylinder walls due to pistons riding up and down the fuel covered walls. Day 6 I sent the head cylinders off to the machine shop and got them back within 2 days. Much quicker than I needed them back. Meanwhile I cleaned and painted the valve covers, upper timing covers and fuel rail because they were ugly. I will be sourcing out a donor M62TU short block online as there is no LR junkyard near me. I am now waiting for the weather to get a little warmer (at least 50F) so I can move forward with removing the engine block and continuing the rebuild. Will also be doing new rings, vanos seals, fuel injectors, pcv valve, new timing chains, guides, valley pan, and all gaskets and bearings inside and outside the block I am not sure if I will be up or under on the car’s value after I finish rebuilding it. But I am sure it will be a long lasting engine once completed though. Anything else I should be doing while in there? Also this car came with 24” Lexani Luxury Wheels and 275/30/24 tires front and back.More to come on this fun build pending a warm weather!
 

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Obviously you are not afraid to get into some work. That block is everyones worst nightmare I think. I think i am in for a cam chain/guide job so will look for your reconstruction notes. Happy hunting for that block.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Obviously you are not afraid to get into some work. That block is everyones worst nightmare I think. I think i am in for a cam chain/guide job so will look for your reconstruction notes. Happy hunting for that block.
This freezing weather just needs to slow a bit then I will continue the work. No garage to work in. And also Definitely having a hard time finding a donor block. I plan on reconditioning the cylinder walls on the donor block with AN-30 silicone paste. As for your repair I have done it once fairly easy after removing the vicious fan and crank pulley bolt (you need a lonnnng leverage to break it loose), radiator, valve covers, front electrical connections, water pump, alternator, top timin cover and lower timing cover. Then have at it replacing the guides and chain after you set TDC with the tools and cam locks of course. Took me about 5 hours on my 04 hse. Good luck! Here if you need anything!
 

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Thanks Rovah. Much appreciated as I am working outdoors as well. Planning to pull the lower pan and see what I can see as I found a couple of fingernail clippings of white plastic on the dipstick when I checked it before a trip I then cancelled. As far as I have been told there are no white plastic parts in there so either a po had dropped something in there that got dislodged and went thru the chain and gears or parts were changed that were made of white plastic. I had just had an oil change done about a week earlier but so weird to actually find those bits stuck to the oil on the end of the dipstick . A blessing in disguise maybe. We now have a mild spell after a few weeks of temps around the 0 F mark.
 

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Goodluck on your build i would strongly suggest to not touch the bores on your donor block if they exhibit the normal color of a used but good condition alusil block .
wipe them with oil and put it together dont mess with the rings either.
Porsche also uses this bore material and its a long life silicon impregnated surface,
screwing with it in some cases can damage an otherwise perfectly good cylinder
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Mrmerlin for your input. Unfortunalety this is something I want to do once and for all right from the get-go. I would hate myself if I don’t recondition the donors block and throw in new rings on the pistons. I have made up my mind and not afraid of the m62tu alusil dilemma lol.

Update: I had some free time today although it was wet outside due to the rain. I pulled the block out. Ran into lots of issue such as rusted axles into hub and other issues. Think I will replace both front hubs and axles. Anyone knows a good cheap supplier? Gonna open up the block next week to salvage the old parts into the donor block. Biggest challenge was loosening all 4 torque converter/flywheel bolts since I did not remove the bottom frame I did not have enough space for my hand and wrench to get in the inspection hole, let alone I couldn’t see, I had to feel around and avoid rounding the bolts. Almost gave up and wanted to pull the engine with the torque converter attached to it but did not want to remove the radiator to make more room. Took a lot of thoughts. After pulling out the engine I think I deserve a back massage.
 

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Been there, done that many times with the torque converter bolts. Get your self a long reach 17mm socket and grind the end down until it is the correct length to allow a ratchet to be attached. Very fiddly but gets easier each time you do it. Also make sure the bolts thread in and out easily before refitting the engine.

Dont plan on using your original pistons in the new block. They will most likely be damaged also.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Ghur for your input. I was hoping to inspect and re-use the original pistons but with new rings. I will source out donor pistons then.
 

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Rovah: Been in the same situation with engines that looked the same (twice). The last engine I installed I purchased with a blown head gasket but the bottom end was fine.

I would not touch the block - new rings sure - but the block no. Having an A8 with a similar made engine I did much reading on the engine and its wear. From what I learned the rings go b/c the cylinder walls are so hard - the block is almost never a problem. You can measure it out and decide, but I would just do the rings if anything at all. The bottom end on the M62 is extremely robust - you can do what you want hear. Me I would visually inspect - take some play measurements and decide how much if any surgery is needed. As to the rings, my second engine was an oil burner due to bad rings. I suspect the prior owner let it run low on oil.

You can use a block from a BMW and just move the oil pump, oil pan and related - this will expand your options.

What ever you do you need to strip clean anything that had oil going through it. Everything. Silver sparkle will be everywhere from the head to the oil filter assembly and inside the oil pump. The engine is really easy to work on once you have it on a stand.
 

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if the bores are good wipe them down with acetone then coat them with fresh oil and put the thing together.


dont forget to replace the lifters,
and the oil cooler and lines ,
this if the oil was filled with metallic particles.

its a safe bet the heads need to have the oil journal caps removed and the pathways bore scrubbed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Kg74 for the input. Yes I figured I could get the block from a bmw e38 e39 and e53 but short blocks are hard to find. All I am seeing is long block engine as whole.
MrMerlin, I had the head cylinders already done by a machine shop. They are squeaky clean and ready to go. I won’t be replacing the lifters as the machine shop pressured flushed the old oil out with new oil in them. As for the oil cooler and its lines, I am not buying new ones lol. The money is stacking up so I will be flushing the oil cooler and its lines with parts cleaner til clean and free of debris. Thanks
 

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If you’re up to it, go to a local LKQ and drop an X5 subframe with the engine, and strip everything you don’t need off of it. Short block is $250 or so but check the global price list on their website. You’ll need a few strong buddies to go over there though.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update to keep my thread alive. Still no donor bare block just yet. All m62 engine bmw and rovers owners out there are loving their rigs so much they aren’t parting ways with them just yet lol don’t blame them
 

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Discussion Starter #15
KG74 I will look on that site. Funny you said that because I have been searching donors from 5, 7 and x5 series. As soon as you ask for range rover 4.4 m62tu everybody want an arm and a leg or want to sell you a complete used long block
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Alright we are back in business. 540i m62tu donor block found and picked up. Hot tanked and cleaned. Will condition cylinders with an30 sunnen tomorrow. Then rebuild slowly at baby steps. Will report back once the rebuild is completed and fitted in the RR and key turned!
 

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Just a regular honing tool rented at local auto parts store. I used electrical tape to cover up the glazing stones on all 3 legs. Then fitted the legs with felt sheets that I sewed on snug fit. Sort of like pants for each leg. Then I deeped the legs in honing oil for a bit. I coated the cylinders walls with the silicone paste. Then fitted the honing tool on impact drill and massaged the walls clockwise at 250rpm for 90seconds while manuveuring it up and down the bore.
 

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Ok that looks like its going to work,
do you have have any bore pictures?
FWIW I used a similar hone and used the brown felt pads that you can buy from the craft store for fitting to the bottom of a lamp,
they come with adhesive on them
I cut the felt so it was about a half inch extra on either side of the stone then it stuck to the sides of the stone holder,
I worked the hone for about 2 mins each bore being generous with the Sunnen 30 paste.
When i was finished i had a dull gray matte finish.
I was restoring a Porsche 928 block
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Nice. You still own that porsche? Yea Looks like I am on the right path. My next weeks are so busy that I probably would only have few hrs on certain nights to carry out the rebuild. And then I will put the engine back in...I am dreading reconnecting everything lol Can I snap my fingers and click my heels for this to happen on its own? Lol
 
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