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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I recently purchased a 03 range rover with 145,00 miles on it. Timing chains and guides have been replaced. I was going to pay 4,800 for it running but upon arrival it didn't start up. Hmmm....... so I got it for dirt cheap guys! So the issue is, when you crank it over, it will fire up and rev up to 1500 rpm every time for about 1 second and then drop down to about 250rpm and try to idle there and then cuts out. runs for in total about 5 seconds. Seems like its not running well as it shakes a lot. I changed the spark plugs to NGK 4 prong iridium plugs and no change. Now, do you guys think this is a fuel pump issue? I would hope they know how to set the timing (being a shop who works on bmw engines), but I'm open to anything right now. Thanks for any help guys!!
 

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So then hit the basics. Have you checked for fuel? Have you checked for spark? Are there any error codes logged?

There are all sorts of reason for a nonrunning engine. It sounds like it is starving, but is it a pump or injector issue? What is your fuel PSI with ignition on? When was the fuel filter last serviced?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So then hit the basics. Have you checked for fuel? Have you checked for spark? Are there any error codes logged?

There are all sorts of reason for a nonrunning engine. It sounds like it is starving, but is it a pump or injector issue? What is your fuel PSI with ignition on? When was the fuel filter last serviced?
I pulled the plugs again and it seems like two or 3 of them were not firing. They were all wet with gas so I don't think it's an injector issue. Is there a prosecute to test Coils? And I will check fuel psi. Thanks
 

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I wonder if someone changed the fuel pump and did not use a proper clamp on the output side of the fuel pump. Ours bled off quickly and although it always started the cranking time was excessive. Others have had no starts with a similar issue. There is a very small likelihood that the fuel pressure regulator may have failed so if not checked than the filter could be changed to eliminate that possibility. When I checked pressure at the fuel rail by just pushing on the schraeder valve it often seemed to have air bubbles in it. Ours lost pressure (when I put a gauge on it)very quickly and in fact the fuel pump did not always seem to come on with each turn of the key. Weird behaviour that would make you think a few things were wrong when it was a improper clamping of the fuel line coming off the pump that was the cause of any perceived issue. The point about the pump is, if you are careful, you can change the pump for a $100 or less in parts vs $1000 for the whole assembly. There is a check valve in the pump which could possibly fail and allow pressure to bleed off but I have not read that specifically anywhere yet. If you boot the engine a bit the pressure drop on the gauge should indicate the proper functioning of the fuel pressure regulator. My test gauge would only move 1 psi or so for a split second and basically the gauge sat at 50 psi. while running.
 

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There are links on here and there are good pumps. I was not preemptive and bought one here which cost me over $400 can. The problem is to use the proper 360 degree clamp on the output side of the pump or it will bleed off quickly with engine off. A typical gear type clamp will not exert equal pressure and the hose is nylon or similar and not forgiving in terms of sealing properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There are links on here and there are good pumps. I was not preemptive and bought one here which cost me over $400 can. The problem is to use the proper 360 degree clamp on the output side of the pump or it will bleed off quickly with engine off. A typical gear type clamp will not exert equal pressure and the hose is nylon or similar and not forgiving in terms of sealing properly.
Ok thanks. I will order a pu mp and replace it with the right clamp. Then I got 8 new coils and will replace those as well. Then I will add 5 gallons of gas to make sure I have gas even though the garage reads 1/4 tank, and hopefully it will run like a champ.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok guys so I replaced my fuel filter and now I have constant steady pressure. Now the car will start and idle but runs very rough. I pulled the spark plugs to see what was going on and the whole right side of the engine is not firing. I have spark but the plugs look brand new as opposed to the other side of the engine. Now what could this be? right side cam sensor? could the timing be off on the right side? Thanks for any responses!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi guys so I checked the codes and they are p0347 wh8ch is drivers side cam sensor. I swapped it with the left side and I get the same code. What do you guys think?
 

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A possibility that timing could be off on that side. I guess it would have to be the secondary chain. Has any research on the code been explicit. i will google it and report back if i find anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
A possibility that timing could be off on that side. I guess it would have to be the secondary chain. Has any research on the code been explicit. i will google it and report back if i find anything.
Thanks! I appreciate it
 

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Ok guys so bad news. The culprit ended up being that the trigger wheel for the cam sensor was loose. So I had a BMW shop clamp down the timing and reset everything. NOW the problem is that it has no spark and no fuel pump. After looking at the codes it says the car is immobilized?? It will crank over but not fire! No spark and no fuel pump. Now, the steering column doesn't lock so I have to pull out fuse 18 to have it start in the past but now it wont start.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok guys, I have no fuel and no spark. The only code I have is P1672 Engine anti-theft signal circuit wrong code received Secure ECM, received incorrect code. DO I need to take this to a land rover dealer to reprogram the immobilizer? thanks!
 

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yes take it the dealer
 

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Discussion Starter #19
yes take it the dealer
Ok thanks, and also my steering ecu is broke and I have a switch wired to fuse 18 to reset immobilizer. Is the dealer going to force me to buy a new one or will they resink the immobilizer without trying to tell me I need a new steering column?
 

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I would guess it will depend on what kind of relationship you have with your dealer
 
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