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1-20 of 36 Results
  1. Range Rover Sport / L320
    TLDR; ball joint is squeaking again, seeking advice on protective measures My RRS SC 07' sees a fair amount of dirt. A few months ago it started creaking on the front left corner when it would hit a bump after a muddy weekend at hungry valley. The culprit ended up being the control arm ball...
  2. Range Rover Mark II / P38
    I’m getting all new ball joints on my truck later this week. I’m going to have new axle seals installed during the process FTC4822. Other than pads and rotors if they are bad is there anything else I should have done while it’s torn apart? I’ve already done new D bushings and anti sway bar...
  3. Range Rover Mark III / L322
    I had a hole in the CV boot so just replaced the 2 boots. STEPS Jack car and take tyre off, release steak nut locking device (half shaft retaining nut) with screw driver/chisel and pound hammer taking care not to damage axel thread. Must have a 12point M36, 1/2” socket to undo the steak nut...
  4. Range Rover Mark II / P38
    Hi all, Today I replaced the UJ at the rear end of the front prop shaft. It wasn’t particularly fun but I’m glad I did as the old one was shot and making awful noises. Anyway, it’s the first one I’ve ever done and my question is: how loose should the new UJ be? Compared to the other end is...
  5. Range Rover Mark III / L322
    All, I have a 2008 RR HSE, 115,000 miles. About five months ago I had the front suspension replaced at a shop, both air struts. Now, when I drive over small bumps or cracks in the road, I hear a kind of single knock coming from under the hood area or the suspension. I don't remember the noise...
  6. Range Rover Mark III / L322
    Hello I have purchased two lower control arms from different vendors. One is supposed to be moog but it came with a tall ballpoint boot. The one from the other vendor came with the normal ball joint boot. As I’m confused on which I should go with booth items seemed to come shipped different then...
  7. Range Rover Sport / L320
    Hello all, Has anyone ever performed a front-upper- control arm ball joint replacement only? I searched the Internet but could only find info on the lower ball joint. Can a non-rover mechanic perform this on an 06 4.2 v8? Thank you all in advance.
  8. Range Rover Mark III / L322
    Where do you get these bolts? The lower ball joints did not come with new ones, which is unacceptable considering they appear to be torque-to-yield and are all deformed when you remove them. I can't find these bolts on any of the parts websites. Below is the RAVE photo of what I'm talking...
  9. Range Rover Mark III / L322
    The one with the torx bolts on either side. I had no problem separating the control arms using a ball joint split, or removing the lower ball joint, The upper with arm separated seems to be a real problem. No access to get a press over it really unless there is some specialized tool I'm unaware...
  10. Range Rover Classic
    Have a '91 Classic, the lf CV assembly let go and I coasted to a stop. This is not a complex repair, thankfully, but my question is why could I not continue in "limp mode" driving just the rear wheels, just to get a short distance? Curious about the physics of this, seems like the rears would...
  11. Range Rover Classic
    So according to RAVE, the front prop shaft on a '95 RRC should be oriented such that the slip joint is fitted to the t-box However, I noticed mine was flipped the other way, i.e., slip joint was fitted to the diff. I don't recall when this would have changed, but can someone confirm which...
  12. Range Rover Mark II / P38
    I'm part way through the ball joint exercise and it's going ok. However, the top ball joint I started with was very hard to press out and I have the new one pressed in to within about 3/16 inch of seating, but it's become very hard to make progress and I don't want to force anything excessively...
  13. Range Rover Mark III / L322
    Reading through the forum it seems people have issues removing the ball joint from the knuckle, the one attached with torx screws not the one integral to the lower control arm. I'm chasing down a rattle when turning over uneven road, should I replace the tie rod end as well? Is it a big deal...
  14. Range Rover Mark II / P38
    Hi Here is the progress so far - as you will see from the pix - the upper ball joint will not budge the c-clamp is clearly bending this is a kit from H*** Freight tools Any body know where I can get the proper tool - one that is man enough for the job. A web search has a few that are almost a...
  15. Range Rover Mark II / P38
    Hi All, I need to replace the upper universal joint in the steering column. Rave's procedure looks simple enough ...... I'm tempted to do it myself, is there anything I should watch for? Cheers.
  16. Range Rover Mark III / L322
    Hi friends i replace my rear upper ball joint bushings the other day the left side was hell getting out and putting back in but the right side came out pretty easy and i put it back in with my hand so now its sliding back and forth is there any way i can stop it from moving or is there a left...
  17. Range Rover Mark II / P38
    i ask this question because i have an intermittent high pitched metal to metal scraping sound which only last for a handful of seconds anywhere from (5-20) and only at speeds under 15-20 mph upon initial startup or after starting from a standing stop. no sound is heard as the car picks up...
  18. Range Rover Mark III / L322
    Hi all...anyone got a trick to removing the ball joint from the hub for the front upper control arms? I got the arm off and separated from the ball joint and I easily removed the 2 torx bolts holding the ball joint in the hub...but getting the joint itself out of the hub proved impossible...
  19. Range Rover Mark III / L322
    Noticed this when I was replacing the front right air strut. There was grease splattered in the wheel well, and the inboard clamp came undone. Can I fill it with grease and tighten the clamp back up? There is no noise, like a bad CV joint. 2006 RR. Thanks.
  20. Range Rover Classic
    Hi, How does one go about replacing the rubber steering joint in a 91 rrc? all im seeing are $125 assemblies, and i don't want to drop that much coin out of principal. I see plenty of nearly identical looking steering shafts for like $40-$70, does anyone know if there's another one that works?
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