installing a new subwoofer (complete with photos) - Page 3
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Thread: installing a new subwoofer (complete with photos)

  1. #31
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    you're an absolute gem ryan! hope i haven't jumped the gun as i see there hasn't been an update over the past few days! no problems right?!

    i am not so daring as to attempt the mod myself but i did manage to find a local car audio store today that will do the whole job (amp/sub/loc/labor/misc) for $398. it will be finished wed so i'll let everyone know how much of an improvement it is within the next few days.

    on a quick note...i'm a new owner myself and just wanted to point out this forum has been an absolutely brilliant resource concerning the "do's and don'ts" ! excellent stuff, keep it up gents!

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  3. #32
    LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR umbertob's Avatar
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    Welcome MasonSensation! Just to be sure, that charge by the car audio store you mention is for labor only, you are still buying and supplying them with the necessary parts (sub/amp/converter), yes? Otherwise, I sure hope that store is "local" to me, too...

  4. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by MasonSensation
    you're an absolute gem ryan! hope i haven't jumped the gun as i see there hasn't been an update over the past few days! no problems right?!

    i am not so daring as to attempt the mod myself but i did manage to find a local car audio store today that will do the whole job (amp/sub/loc/labor/misc) for $398. it will be finished wed so i'll let everyone know how much of an improvement it is within the next few days.

    on a quick note...i'm a new owner myself and just wanted to point out this forum has been an absolutely brilliant resource concerning the "do's and don'ts" ! excellent stuff, keep it up gents!
    Welcome Mason. Looks like you may have it done before me
    I got the subwoofer in today, it looks cool. Still waiting on the LC6,
    and the amp. I went with this amp by the way:
    http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v ... 95,00.html
    I'm curious how it will sound. The only thing that may be a problem is
    that the trim actually covers the subwoofer; creating a sort of unported band pass enclosure. I'm going to try to seal off the air space created by
    the trim piece the best I can.
    Let us know how it turns out and if the installers had any tricky obstacles
    with wiring or anything else. Just share it all

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  6. #34
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    thanks for the welcome lads!

    sorry, should have been a little more specific with the pricing but the $398 does in fact include everything! other audio stores may not be so willing, but i always get them to commit to the price before they start gutting anything out!


    pioneer tw-sw2541d $135
    rf-p200.2 $130
    amp kit & loc (misc) $56.95
    labor $60!

    ...and yes, i would be skeptical about the low price but i had work done on a c230K about a year ago. they switched out my rear speakers, component set, head unit, and installed a sub without any flaws. given the pain in the a$$ mercedes can be with their audio setup i'm positive they can handle this with relative ease. i will make sure to let you know of any issues should they arise however.

    now i am in a lil' old place called martinsville in VA right now visiting the 'rents (probably familiar to any NASCAR fans that may be out there). i actually live a couple hours away in Raleigh, NC but have the liberty of being able to drop the car off for a day while i visit the fam.

    so unfortunately i'm guessing this in not exactly local to anyone on the board but at the least it should be a useful reference if anyone else chooses to follow suit. so fingers crossed all will run smooth and i'll give another update prob on thurs.

  7. #35
    SOPHOMORE ROVER
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    Quote Originally Posted by MasonSensation
    thanks for the welcome lads! always get them to commit to the price before they start gutting anything out!
    Speaking of gutting... they aren't going to know how to get that tailgate
    trim off for the subwoofer unless they have the land rover removal
    instructions. More than likely (like most audio shops) they are just going
    to "figure it out" which may lead to problems. The glass liftgate has to be
    opened WHILE the main liftgate is opened. To do this... you have to lock
    the main liftgate latch MANUALLY by pushing the latch over with your hand.
    Then you will be able to open the glass latch, but be careful because the
    glass hatch will rise all the way up (this really takes two people)... one
    to hold the hatch so it doesn't go all the way up and damage the roof
    spoiler or the glass itself, and one other person to perform the trim
    removal.

    pioneer tw-sw2541d $135
    rf-p200.2 $130
    amp kit & loc (misc) $56.95
    labor $60!
    Is the "loc" the audiocontrol? That's a real cheap price. I would make
    sure it isn't just a regular line converter cause it has to be able to handle
    the 50watts from the factory Harman Kardon amp.

  8. #36
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    I just realized that the amplifier I ordered has speaker inputs.
    So I may be able to just connect the subwoofer wire from the
    harman amp into the new amp, then out to the sub without
    the use of a line out converter.

  9. #37
    SOPHOMORE ROVER
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    I was gonna tell you about that option but you seemed pretty convinced on the line converter. That will work fine.

  10. #38
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    you think this will work good? Are you sure you can run the sub wires
    from the factory amp to the new amp? I know its ok from the radio,
    but i've never done it from a factory amp.

  11. #39
    SOPHOMORE ROVER
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    All it will be doing is amplifying the sub signal. It will be supplying more volts which you can adjust by matching the gains. So really just a stronger signal. However it will not be as clean a signal as coming straight from the radio but i dont think you can do anything about that. On the factory amp you can pull the facotry input plug and strip back the wires, to try and find the signal for the sub. Probelm is that i dont know how the signal comes into the factory amp. I dont think its like a regular stereo with 4 channels going into an amp. I think it may be just a straight signal that the stock amplifier separates to the speakers.
    Anyways what i wanted to say is that i bet youll get the same result from using the speaker inputs on the amp that you will from the lc6. A sub signal and those low frequencies are not clear anyways.

  12. #40
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    well, we'll see because it looks like I'll get to test them both out as I
    already purchased the LC6 It should sound good either way, the LC6
    provides a few more adjustment features. The amp is 1,000w max (600
    i'll be using), so surely that will make up for any lost signal

  13. #41
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    Ok. So its been 6days and no LC6 yet, so I called the people and
    they said their inventory was wrong. So they said they would send
    me the LC8 at no charge. I said ok, that's fine.
    However, I had planned on just canceling the order with them because
    I had just purchased another LC6 from another place and cheaper.
    So now I have an LC8 and an LC6 on the way, plus the amp with
    speaker inputs. This should be fun.
    If anyone is interested I may have SOME type of line converter for sale
    shortly

  14. #42
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    just a side note:
    I was looking at the JL audio cleansweep recently as an option.
    I called JL audio yesterday and spoke with technical support. I
    explained what I was doing and was told that the cleansweep
    would not be the best option for just adding a subwoofer, and
    that I would be better off with a line converter or amplifier with
    speaker inputs. So this was reassuring.

  15. #43
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    Just another update. My premiere amplifier came in last night.
    This amp and sub are so pretty I hate to hide them. I pulled
    up the floor piece behind the back seats last night, super easy;
    and there is a lot of space there, the amp and audiocontrol (if I use it)
    will fit there perfectly. Oh and they sent me a free pair of tweeters
    with the amp, nice of them. I wish I could find the nav-tv opv-1r
    somewhere for a reasonable price, this is the only thing I still
    need. I guess I'll just go ahead and try out my modified cable, at
    least I would have video in park.

  16. #44
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    okay, so my system is up and running without any major issues at all. it only took the car audio store a few hours to get everything installed and it looks great (great being that everything is concealed) and sounds considerably better. however, i am not not completely satisfied as i am only able to push the sub to about 50% of the power before it becomes too overbearing for the "tailgate enclosure"! if i increase the power of the amp any more than half-way it almost sounds distorted?! i played around with the frequency and gains for about 45 mins and really wasn't able to match a combination that completely satisfied me.
    i cited dynamat to two different audio stores to counteract the rattling but got the "wince & eghh" face before being told that it would not make that much of a difference given the setup of the tailgate.

    ...for comparison i put a 12" p2 that i had sitting in the house and hooked it up in the trunk and it sounds brilliant. it definitely sounds better than any other option i have exhausted thus far; however, it obviously defeats the purpose of trying to eliminate the use of a box in the trunk. *i will note that with the box in the back i have absolute minimal rattling from the tailgate & window or anything else for that matter, which is not the case when i power up the pioneer shallow-sub.

    i am pleased however that i do have the option of switching between subs (tailgate or box) very easily and within minutes, should i fancy the need for solid or rear-view distorting bass! i just have to take the speaker wires from either sub and clip them into the amp almost effortlessly.

    ha, well this all sounds very defeating (probably cuz i got a little too excited and considered the tw-sw2541d as the second coming!) but i will stress that the sub is in fact a significant improvement and given the price i paid, would consider it a sound investment. *no pun intended

    so once again, great find ryanoz, it definitely adds a lot more range and is a helluva lot more responsive when adjusting the volume. i guess take my experience with a grain of salt and wait for ryan's outcome as it is obvious he is more than able to combat the issues i have encountered and will probably find a solution for all.

  17. #45
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    Mason,
    great info. Thanks.
    well, its good to know that everything went smooth and the sub fit.
    I knew it wouldn't sound knockout great. The problem is the trim
    piece, it covers the speaker and rattles. I am taking my time with
    this to make sure I do it the best possible way. I'm going to test
    a lot of configurations. To satisfy curiousity, I will see how it
    sounds with the factory amp. I have three options... using the line
    converters (both LC8 and LC6) and using my amps speaker inputs.
    I'll see how it sounds with the trim off, which I imagine it will sound
    as good as possible; the tailgate enclosure is only slightly more
    airspace than ideal. Then I'll see how it sounds with the trim piece
    on, see what differences it makes and how to eliminate them... be
    it securing any rattles or adding some more foam around the sub to
    seal it off better, to maybe cutting a circle out of the trim and adding
    a speaker grill in front of the sub. If it just doesn't sound good in
    the tailgate, then I may consider one of the pioneer enclosures that
    fit under the seat. Or fitting a molded fiberglass enclosure.

    Mason- does the tailgate just rattle way too much? Does the whole thing
    rattle or is it just the trim? Do you think you could eliminate the rattles?
    80% of the time it is the license plate doing most the rattling, and a
    little strip of foam solves that.

    Thanks again.

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