Hey guys, sorry for the long thread title, but want to make it easy for folks to search here (or Google) and find it. This is intended to be a "high level" DIY, not to show every single minor step. I'm assuming if a person is attempting this kind of job they are very hands-on and don't need complete hand holding. (I consider myself mechanically inclined but I'm certainly not a mechanic)
I couldn't find any DIY's anywhere for this project. It seems there is a lack of information in general on replacing these pumps. I've seen posts where folks say the dealer wants 2-3K for this job which is nuts. So hopefully this helps some folks!
Ever since I bought my 2012 Range Rover Sport Supercharged it would go into restricted performance mode and throw a rail pressure code. I changed the rail pressure sensor but it didn't make any difference (as I expected). Eventually, the problem got bad enough where I could feel the vehicle struggling to get enough fuel when I really hammered it. I replaced the lower pressure pump in the fuel tank and that also didn't fix the problem (again as I expected).
I'm in the middle of replacing the timing chain so I figured it was a good time to replace the high pressure pumps.
The factory workshop manual says to remove the steering gear and RH engine mount - this is insane. That is absolutely NOT required. If you remove the alternator and dynamic response fluid pump you have plenty of room to do the job. Since I'm doing the timing job, all of my coolant hoses were moved out of the way so it was easy to remove both the alternator and dynamic response pump. Perhaps you can remove them without moving the coolant hoses out of the way, but I think it would be pretty challenging.
I hadn't really dug into how these high pressure pumps work, but turns out they are mechanically driven off the crankshaft. Basically, there is a "mini" timing drive below the crankshaft which drives a small camshaft which then drives the mechanical high pressure pumps:
So, to change the pumps out, you need to do a few things first:
- Relieve fuel pressure - workshop manual has the procedure but basically you remove fuel pump fuse, then start vehicle and let it die
- Drain oil (if you don't then when you remove the pumps you will get a face full of oil, so might as well do an oil change)
- Drain coolant and move coolant hoses out of the way
- Remove alternator and dynamic response pump (again, consult workshop manual but this is an easy job)
Once you have done steps 3 and 4, this is what it looks like
The picture above was taken after I had removed the pumps. You will be able to easily see the front pump well from up top. I found it easier to remove the electrical connector on the front pump from up top.
Now get under the vehicle. At this point you will find you have a very clear view of both pumps. You need to remove this cover plate:
You also need to remove the sound isolators (shown in first pic above). They are simple foam covers that are easily removed.
This next step may not be absolutely necessary, but I found by removing this screw it made it easier to detach the front fuel line from the front pump. It gives you a bit of "wiggle room" to shake the fuel line loose:
From this point, it's a simple matter of removal. The front pump is easier to access so I removed it first:
The timing job requires starter removal so it's removed in the pic above. But you should be able to access the rear pump just fine even with the starter in place (though it does open the space up a bit).