Well, I finally got my lights. They arrived in a large box and in perfect condition from the vendor. Shipping took only three days for me and I am in NJ.
Installation is as not difficult but it did take me some time to figure out the wiring and etc. I am not very good at doing DIY but here it goes:
1. Carefully remove the existing rear tail lights by removing two screws. Instructions are also found in the manual. Now, the toughest part is pulling the light out. The lights are fastened using plastic inserts and it was pretty tough prying it out without breaking the plastic prongs. Please take caution to pull out the lights straight back as opposed to bending side to side. Also, consider putting a towel on the bumper or something so it won't scratch.
2. As discussed in the previous posts, you will need to purchase 2, 6ohm 50 watt resistors. This is where I bought mine:
http://www.v-leds.com/BlinkerWarning-Fi ... 83296.html
They are about $10 shipped. However, I also bought mounting hardware since these do get hot:
http://www.v-leds.com/BlinkerWarning-Fi ... 41376.html
3. Now, you will need to identify PIN #3 and PIN #5. You will be installing your resistor between these two wires using quick fasteners (provided when you purchase resistors from V Led)
For my 2008 RRS S/C, driver side #3 wire was green/purple and passenger side #3 wire was green/white for the wires coming from the car. You will want to look for orange (#3) and black (#5) on the old tail lights. 2010 tail light wires were not color coded so you will have to rely on your lights for identifying correct wire. Wire #5 is always black. You can look behind the connector off of your pre 2010 tail light to see the pin lable. Please double check your pin number before installing the resistors
4. These resistors can get very hot so you will want to mount or hang them where it won't touch other wires. I used mounting hardware from VLEDS and mounted them using double sided tape:
5. Plug in the wiring harness and check operation. Make sure you test the turn signal. If it's done properly, it should click at normal pace. If not, they will click fast. Honestly, I think I could have lived with fast blinking noise without the resistor. Actual blinking in the back is NOT affected by whether you have resistors or not. As such, I tend to think this is plug n play. You will need resistors only if you can't stand fast blinking noise.