DUC1098 did you figure out the cause of the sound? My 2010 S/C is making the exact same noise
I have a 2010 RRS SC with a similar sound to what you have in your video...the car runs fine but when I took it in to the dealership to have a small repair done they acted like my car was going to explode and gave me a preliminary quote of $10-14K to have the timing belt and supercharger snouts replaces (or something like that). After a full diagnoses they said it would cost ~$7500.
I've got 105,000 on the car right now, what happens if I don't address the clicking problem? And did you have your work done at a dealership or indy shop? Is the sound gone after the work?
2010 Range Rover Sport Supercharged
2001 HSE 4.6 30th Anv. Edition (coils)
I have a 2011 RRSportSC with 118,000 miles. I have a CNA extended warranty. My vehicle VIN falls within range of those with potentially bad timing chain tensioners. CNA has just approved repairs to replace chain tensioners and guides as well as supercharger snout. Approximate cost is $5400.
Land Rover does have a similar one. Technical Bulletin JTB00349v2
P38 2002 4.6 Vogue
L322 2011 4.4 TDV8. 2011 5.0 SC
L320 2010 5.0 SC
L319 2010 5.0 V8
L538 2012 2.2.
Hello, did you ever change the supercharger coupling? If so did you have to remover supercharger? Thanks, I’m changing the coupler now but almost impossible to get to 2 bolts.
You can get to all of them (except one) and remove them. You will need to undo cooling Y-pipe from the engine block 2 torx bolts then pull it up, twist it, lean it forward etc...to get the lower two bolts to loosen/remove them. The top right bolt (as you look at engine from the front) you will have to loosen out as far as you can then cut it off with a dremel tool. You'll have the shave some material off of the driver's side intake/cover (you'll notice where this needs to be done when you loosen this 10mm bolt in the first place) Then replace bolt with a hex-head bolt to have room to put this whole snout assembly back on. If you don't want to do all this you can loosen the supercharger from the intake manifold (after you remove the 27 torx bolts for just the cover of the supercharger) then lift the bottom portion up - to remove another 10mm bolt that's on the side of this driver intake. Then this right bolt doesn't need to be cut or replaced. Easy a Pie!
Here are some pictures if needed. The four bolts shown (Intake) are in reference to the driver's side that you'll need to remove - but easier to show where they are located in the picture from the pass-side. Sorry for the extensive use of Paint to help edit these pictures (right click on picture - view image - to enlarge)
What you can do after this bolt is switched out without removing the supercharger