Need Brakes @ 22.5k for 08 S/C - Page 2
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Thread: Need Brakes @ 22.5k for 08 S/C

  1. #16
    Premium Member gooseyloosey's Avatar
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    Re: Need Brakes @ 22.5k for 08 S/C

    Quote Originally Posted by Slykmr
    I was quoted 800 for front rotors and pads. Said my pads etched into my rotors. Well LR make a better rotor! Probably gonna just do the job myself.
    I happened to stop by the dealer on my way home last night to pick up some differential fluid, and asked the SA what a complete set would cost. He said between $1300 and $1400 depending on whether I needed new sensors or not.

    So here's the way I figure this, economically anyways.

    I paid ~$600 for all the parts from BA inc. sensors. I will buy some other bits and pieces (brake lube, etc) I need next week at NAPA and lets assume that is ~$50 (I'll give a detailed itemized cost in my write up). So $1300-$650-my time=$650 savings.

    Also assume worst case it takes me or someone 4 hrs to do their whole car. That's an implied labor rate of $162/hr for my labor. If I can do it quicker the implied labor rate is even higher.

    So, from an economic standpoint, if I can make >$162 (after tax dollars) an hr doing something else, then it makes sense for me to use the dealer. If not, and I have the ability change them, then it makes sense to do it myself.



    '08 RRS HSE Stornoway Gray

    Space isn't remote at all. It's only an hour's drive away if your car could go straight upwards.

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  3. #17
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Need Brakes @ 22.5k for 08 S/C

    Umbertob, Do you have the same type PDF for the rear disk replacement. Have done the fronts, no problems just like most of the other cars I have done. Wondering if you need to loosen the parking break shoes to remove the rear disk as in some cars with drum/disk rears? The P38 had the parking brake on the drive shaft.
    Also, if you have not added break fluid, you should not need to open the break lines (bleeder) and subject them to the possibility of air and dirt. I would suggest that most people are better off not bleeding their own breaks unless they have a spongy pedal and a proper bleeder.
    I am surprised that there is not a warning on pressing the pedal after installation. If you press the pedal all the way while the pads are not close to the disk, there is a good chance of setting off the fluid failure switch. This is not easy to reset as it usually requires opening a line on the opposite circuit to centralize the sensor. Only small strokes on the pedal should be used to move the pads to the disk until resistance is felt in the pedal. Never push the pedal to the floor for in step 12 of the rear install or step 11 of the front install.
    Thanks for the PDF's

  4. #18
    Premium Member gooseyloosey's Avatar
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    Re: Need Brakes @ 22.5k for 08 S/C

    Bop08, yes very good points. You also don't want to muck up the master cylinder piston seals by pushing all the way to the floor. I will also find out next week how that rear piston compresses as those directions do not indicate whether it needs to be screwed in. I'm prepared for that as long as I don't need a $40 LR specific tool.



    '08 RRS HSE Stornoway Gray

    Space isn't remote at all. It's only an hour's drive away if your car could go straight upwards.

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  6. #19
    LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR umbertob's Avatar
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    Re: Need Brakes @ 22.5k for 08 S/C

    Ack! New rear discs do indeed require the electronic park brake shoes to be loosened, adjusted and "bedded" into the new discs. Thanks for the reminder. PDFs (several files) will follow soon.

  7. #20
    LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR umbertob's Avatar
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    Re: Need Brakes @ 22.5k for 08 S/C

    The PDFs don't translate hyperlinks within the service manual pages, but all the instructions you need should be here. Major PITA.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  8. #21
    LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR umbertob's Avatar
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    Re: Need Brakes @ 22.5k for 08 S/C

    And, should anyone have second thoughts about replacing the rear discs...

    Rear Disc thickness:
    New: 20.0 mm (0.78 in)
    Service limit: 17.0 mm (0.67 in)
    Maximum disc run-out - disc installed: 0.09 mm (0.003 in)

    Front Disc thickness (both Brembo and non-Brembo brakes):
    New: 30.0 mm (1.18 in)
    Service limit: 27.0 mm (1.063 in)
    Maximum disc run-out - disc installed: 0.05 mm (0.002 in)

  9. #22
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Need Brakes @ 22.5k for 08 S/C

    Umbertob;
    In the Parking brake adjustment procedure, it talks about "Using the Land Rover approved diagnostic system, drive the parking brake to the 'mounting position'. "
    Can this be done without the diagnostic system?
    This looks like the normal , "with brake off adjust to get a good drag and then back off the star wheel 8 clicks".
    Does anyone do this without the diagnostic system?
    Or is this like most front heavy vehicle where the rear disks never wear to minimum even after 150000 miles?

  10. #23
    LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR umbertob's Avatar
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    Re: Need Brakes @ 22.5k for 08 S/C

    Here is goosey's step-by-step instructions for MY2006-2009 front pads and discs replacement, with detailed photos (pdf is relatively large, so I was asked to upload it.) Thanks Mike, great work that will make a lot of people's life easier. Rear brakes to follow soon.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  11. #24
    Premium Member TripleE's Avatar
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    Re: Need Brakes @ 22.5k for 08 S/C

    You are the man goose! Can't wait to takle the bolts from hell. Great pic of the dog too.

    '07 RRS
    '03 325i
    '94 GSX

  12. #25
    Premium Member gooseyloosey's Avatar
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    Re: Need Brakes @ 22.5k for 08 S/C

    Quote Originally Posted by TripleE
    You are the man goose! Can't wait to takle the bolts from hell. Great pic of the dog too.
    3E, let us know how it goes! I'm writing up the rears too--will have that up next week. Though on the rears I ended up changing only the pads and not the discs for two reasons (although I wanted to pull the disc off to see how it would be done for the next time, so I went through all the steps ahead of time).

    1. They were barely worn. Unlike the fronts they lost a total of just under 1mm, well under the 3mm spec. I'll change them at 60K.
    2. Putting them into service mode per the instructions I don't think I did properly. The procedure is a bit like patting your head and rubbing your belly at the same time--and I guess I screwed something up. Unfortunately I had the caliper and anchor plate off when I realized this and to reenter service mode I would have had to put everything back together again and then take it apart.

    So the bottom line @30K, I think for most people, do the front pads and rotors and do the pads in the back. At 60K you will have to do both sets of rotors.

    Oh, and the dog is my brother and sister-in-law's. That picture was from this past Christmas day, and just happened to be on the same camera I used. Unfortunately, he had bone cancer and had to be put down this week ... so I thought I would memorialize him.



    '08 RRS HSE Stornoway Gray

    Space isn't remote at all. It's only an hour's drive away if your car could go straight upwards.

  13. #26
    Premium Member Frisco_TX_RRS's Avatar
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    Re: Need Brakes @ 22.5k for 08 S/C

    Nice write up - very detailed and precise.
    2006 RRS HSE |Java Black | DFW-TX

  14. #27
    Premium Member TripleE's Avatar
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    Re: Need Brakes @ 22.5k for 08 S/C

    Quote Originally Posted by gooseyloosey
    had to be put down this week ... so I thought I would memorialize him.
    Weak. Glad you included him!

    '07 RRS
    '03 325i
    '94 GSX

  15. #28
    LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR umbertob's Avatar
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    Re: Need Brakes @ 22.5k for 08 S/C

    Rear brake pads replacement how-to. Once again, thanks goosey!
    Attached Files Attached Files

  16. #29
    Premium Member TripleE's Avatar
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    Re: Need Brakes @ 22.5k for 08 S/C

    Goose,

    Per Umberto's upload on the fronts here: download/file.php?id=3326

    How come we can't just do steps 4 and 5? What bolt in step 4 corresponds to your guide?

    Thanks man,
    3E

    '07 RRS
    '03 325i
    '94 GSX

  17. #30
    Premium Member gooseyloosey's Avatar
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    Re: Need Brakes @ 22.5k for 08 S/C

    Quote Originally Posted by TripleE
    Goose,

    Per Umberto's upload on the fronts here: https://rangerovers.net/forum/download/file.php?id=3326

    How come we can't just do steps 4 and 5? What bolt in step 4 corresponds to your guide?

    Thanks man,
    3E
    3E, you can do the swing away thing if you just want to replace the pads.

    But if you want to do the rotor too, its the bolts from hell. Those caliper mount bolts are real easy to remove.

    My thought is, since you're taking one of the bolts out (step 4), take the top out anyway & clean and lube up both guide pins while you're in there. You can then put the top bolt back and do the swingaway thing to change the pads without having to hang the caliper away.

    The bolt in step #4 is the caliper bolt. It holds the caliper to the mounting frame. There is a guide pin behind it covered with rubber boot--which when you swing away the caliper on the bottom you can easily slide out along with the boot. These need to be greased well with high temp grease so the caliper can move side to side on the fixed mounting bracket. While you are in there, I would pull the both guide pins and boots off and regrease them, especially if you go in water alot. You don't want these to dry out.

    Are you preparing for your brake job?



    '08 RRS HSE Stornoway Gray

    Space isn't remote at all. It's only an hour's drive away if your car could go straight upwards.

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