**INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips - Page 4
  1. Welcome to RangeRovers.net – General discussion forum for Range Rovers

    Welcome to RangeRovers.net - a website dedicated to all things Range Rovers.

    You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, Join RangeRovers.net today!
     
Closed Thread
Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast
Results 46 to 60 of 62

Thread: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

  1. #46
    FOUNDING MEMBER
    Join Date
    April 22nd, 2004
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    4,509

    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    Just found a new trick for getting tough pistons off, remove the motor end, and the motor housing (magnets). leave the allen key in the counterweight to prevent it from turning, then turn the motor shaft by hand to spin the shaft inside the piston counterweight. Once the "gunk" is twisted free, it'll come right off.
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  2. Remove Advertisements
    Range Rovers Forum
    Advertisements
     

  3. #47
    FOUNDING MEMBER
    Join Date
    April 22nd, 2004
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    4,509

    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    Troubleshooting guide-

    http://127.0.0.1:1500/Projects/EAS%2...idance/Run.dsb

    I've been wanting to put one of these together for a while, it's in the beginning stages so any and all feedback is more than welcome.
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  4. #48
    JUNIOR ROVER
    Join Date
    February 15th, 2007
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    922

    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    New Valve block Problems identified:

    about 12m ago invested in a new valve block (from AirBag Man) because the solenoids in the original were shot...

    New Symptoms:
    1.the dreaded front end traffic light dance and constant compressor operation began in ernest recently.
    Relay #20 OK etc etc, had already removed offending thrust washer from compressor motor several months ago (Ref Falconworks fix)
    2. Losing height (50-70mm) over night...
    3. Pulled delay timer and totally isolated valveblock with ballcock valves in the bypass system. Result: vehicle maintained height within 3mm for a week!
    4. No sign of external air leak from valve block (ballcocks open, delay timer reinserted etc)
    TOTALLY FRUSTRATED...
    Thanks to all for hints in other posts re. the three non-return valves... so,, on a hunch:

    5. Removed valve block yesterday afternoon and opened up non-return valve section only.
    6. Examined valve seats and o-rings minutely with high power mag glass in Swiss Army knife (Magiver eat your heart out )
    RESULT: seating contact surface of o-rings appeared coated/=contaminated? with a silvery substance. Non contact surface very clean..
    Didn't have heart to open my brand new set of o-rings from Dennis, so removed existing rings and refitted them upside down... cleaned mating surface with cotton bud dipped in disc brake cleaner...
    7. Reassembled valve block and went on 40km drive...
    8. compressor filled totally depleted tank in 7 mins 22 secs, minimal compressor operation during drive.
    9. Measured heights last night, again midday today and tonight... less that 1 mm difference
    Lessons Learned: Beware the dreaded non-return valves
    “This is one race of people for whom psychoanalysis is of no use whatsoever.”
    (Sigmund Freud...referring to Landie owners in general and P38a fanatics in particular..apparently

    MY99 P38 4.6 (Thor) with general personality disorder...
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  5. Remove Advertisements
    Range Rovers Forum
    Advertisements
     

  6. #49
    Premium Member
    Join Date
    October 3rd, 2005
    Location
    Wellington, Somerset, UK
    Posts
    4,642

    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    I had a p38 in yesterday, almost on its bump stops with a hard fault.

    Put it on T4, said FL valve stuck closed, FL and FR incorrect signal. Ran some more tests and found the compressor was not adequate, so I replaced the compressor. Did a leak check on valve block, drier and collets + lower airspings. Checked air tank and lines and had a quick wiggle of the four height sensors. Everything appeared well. The valve block exhaust silencer had gone hard and white power was deposited around the external black plastic EAS box, next to the exhaust. It was slightly resisting exhausting air, and to check the inside, I ran the dump tank fuction on T4 and noted any internal contaminant blowing out of the valve block without the old exhaust silencer, but there was none. I replaced it with a new one.

    Then I ran the car on the ramp to check it was happy. Problem is that in normal height, the front raises slightly, then lowers again to correct itself. It's only about 1cm up and then down pretty much every cycle (30 seconds?), but I'm not happy with that. It is both front left and right, so I'd be suprised if it was as simple as height sensors.

    Any advice or past experience with this?



    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  7. #50
    FOUNDING MEMBER
    Join Date
    April 22nd, 2004
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    4,509

    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    does it rise with the compressor on, then shut off the comp to lower? if so the non-return valves in the block are leaking by, causing "the dance". Check by running the compressor with a door open, it will slowly rise, then shut the door, it should stop the comp, lower and restart the compressor until the tank is full.

    The powder is most likely the desiccant, which may have gummed up/destroyed the seals on the NRV's. If you're going to pull the block, may as well do the full rebuild.
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  8. #51
    FOUNDING MEMBER
    Join Date
    April 22nd, 2004
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    4,509

    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    to stay in extended height, either the compressor is running too much (relay 20 stuck) or the diaphragm is stuck, OR the shop mixed up the solenoids, and the exhaust is on the inlet. either way DIY, you don't have to be an expert to work on these, how else can you become an expert?

    if the comrpessor won't run automatically, the thermal switch is likely bad.
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  9. #52
    FRESHMAN ROVER
    Join Date
    December 26th, 2009
    Location
    Rectortown, Northern VA.
    Posts
    46

    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    I am going to go for the Arnott Industries Gen lll airsprings, a little more than the Gen ll but if I am going to spend the money might as well get the best.. Arnott has them throught amazon for $738 all round or the front pair for $358 and the rear pair $381, that is the cheapest i have seen them anywhere so far.
    This website rangerovers,net has different pages for parst etc. and where to get them. try the links below
    Aynsley
    tp://www.amazon.com/1995-ROVER-RANGE-SU ... 953&sr=8-1

    http://www.amazon.com/1995-ROVER-RANGE- ... 953&sr=8-6
    Ex '96 4.0 Range Rover
    Ex '04 Discovery
    Ex '02 Range Rover
    Now a '04 Range Rover
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  10. #53
    FOUNDING MEMBER
    Join Date
    April 22nd, 2004
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    4,509

    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    I didn't realize they had them on Amazon, I'll match that price for RR.net members, and a portion of the sales go directly to RR.net for advertising fees...
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  11. #54
    FOUNDING MEMBER
    Join Date
    April 22nd, 2004
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    4,509

    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    New one! This took a couple weeks to figure-out. Long distance troubleshooting is a PITA sometimes.

    initially, the rover won't lower- typically relay 20 stuck, nope - new relay, no relay, manual, won't go down.
    Turns out the exhaust muffler was completely plugged.

    Installed rebuilt block, all was well for 2 days, then started leaking out the diaphragm (wtf? failed diaphragm maybe?)

    Another rebuilt block put in, works fine for 2 days then leaks out the diaphragm again.....3rd block sent out, then the 1st arrives here- diaphragm full of desiccant - moral of the story, check your air dryer!

    There are 2 felt filters that hold the desiccant in, if they've failed the desiccant will travel through the system and get stuck in the diaphragm or other valves, which will prevent proper sealing.

    The exhaust muffler was plugged up with dust from the desiccant, it had gotten wet from road-spray (I assume) and turned into a rock..
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  12. #55
    JUNIOR ROVER
    Join Date
    June 16th, 2009
    Location
    Durban - KZN South Africa
    Posts
    865

    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    For what its worth (Tons I say)

    When re-sealing the EAS valve block you may aswell replace the Diaphragm, over time the rubber shrinks ever so slightly but its enough for it to leak. (I keep at least 30 of these in stock at any time and every valve block gets a new one regardless of condition)

    The first 2 valves, (Top, front to rear) rubber tips must be soft, if not you will encounter further problems as they do not seal correctly, these are becomming a problem as they are not available loose but working on a solution, best route so far is to have new tips manufactured.

    The reason why the stem sealing ring is square is from pressure when assembled, over time heat and pressure will deform a round O ring into a square ring, this is normal and round O rings are perfect.

    The multi plug conections within the EAS box will benefit with a squirt of contact cleaner to mmmm clean connections, remember that time and heat have effects on these connections, tarnish is one of them which is resistive.
    The connector on the EASC ECU under the seat to can be removed and a squirt of cleaner applied.

    You may think you have good eye sight but using a magnifying glass is king when working with anything small like the the components on the EAS valve block.

    The end cover O rings where the NRVs are located must be assembled dry. Other O rings through out can be assembled using either a smidget of oetroleum jelly or silicone grease/paste.

    Metric O rings seem to fit best and are ever so slightly thicker than imperial.

    I will shortly be updating my blog with full details on how to replace the rubber tips on the 4 valves that control inflation/deflation of the air bellows.

    Relocation development of the EAS system is now finally under way, lots of detailed info and testing was carried out to detrmine a potential faults that could arise.

    Till later
    Feel free to use info on my blog "Update 1 of 5 - Water leaks" Note: No longer in JHB, Moved to Durban (South Africa) much better on the coast, its been 1 year so far
    http://rangeroverworld.blogspot.com/
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  13. #56
    Premium Member
    Join Date
    October 3rd, 2005
    Location
    Wellington, Somerset, UK
    Posts
    4,642

    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    Hi Dennis - Need some input from you here.

    I've replaced most of my EAS. It has had a new valve block about 4 years ago with a new drier unit. It's had airsprings done about 2 years ago. It has had new height sensors, compressor and a driver box about 5 months ago and was calibrated with T4 and the blocks.

    However, it still feels like it shifts around on the highway. I can feel the front and rear adjust and you get that feeling through the steering wheel when it does drop. I always drive it locked in standard height, and there is no indication of a change in height on the LED's. T4 shows no fault codes.

    Any suggestions from your experiences with the p38 EAS?



    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  14. #57
    FOUNDING MEMBER
    Join Date
    April 22nd, 2004
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    4,509

    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    Dancing is (typically) one of two things:

    Non return valves
    Sensors

    To check the NRV's, let it idle with the door open and compressor running, if the front end dances, then it's the NRV's, possible on a new-ish block. Not likely but possible

    If she doesn't dance in the driveway it's likely the sensors, if the calibration is good when static, it could be a bad-spot away from the calibration area, or a loose sensor joint or suspension bushings causing the sensors to read funny.
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  15. #58
    FOUNDING MEMBER
    Join Date
    April 22nd, 2004
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    4,509

    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    Finally figured out what the plastic ring in the end-bell is for. It holds the brushes apart for assembly!

    I thought it was a part of the bearing, but re-doing one thisafternoon, I noticed it fit neatly in the hole in the PCB...

    It kept dropping when I tried to set the brushes against it, so I wedged it up with 2 small screwdrivers, carefully removed them and the endbell went right on, maybe 3 seconds!



    Endbell by shupack, on Flickr
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  16. #59
    FOUNDING MEMBER
    Join Date
    April 22nd, 2004
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    4,509

    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    I've been getting allot of info about which orings go where, I created this .pdf to (hopefully) clear it up. Will also be linked on my site.

    http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pi...OywR96F3&hl=en
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  17. #60
    FRESHMAN ROVER
    Join Date
    January 21st, 2010
    Location
    Wellington, New Zealand
    Posts
    18

    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    Hi All,

    may thanks for all the posts in this forum. It is a gold mine.

    I have, however, a couple of issues I'd really appreciate some feedback on... The story so far….

    I got a valve block kit from Shupack a while back and as the front was dancing like a drunken student, I decided at the weekend to make the changes.. After some initial nervousness I found the instructions on this site to be right on the money and taking the process slowly, worked finished in a few hours on Saturday…

    After returning the block to the car and fixing a couple of small leaks I connected the FaultMate to do some final checks (something I should have done in the first place)…

    The car came up fine, apparently…

    I noticed there was a sensor out of range alert on the right rear height sensor. Looking at the numbers, it was indeed jumping around.

    After another read through all 13 pages of the posts here I swapped the height sensors across the back. (I have a ’99 HSE with all round Arnott GenIIIs). Removing them was a challenge as my copy of RAVE has the old sensors in it that unscrew. It took me a while to work out the new ones were a push fit and a while longer to gently pry them from the rubber mountings

    Initially it seemed to work but the sensor (now on the opposite side) is, again, jumping around and the truck takes on a rather unattractive tilt when on high… I tried messing with the settings but the sensor won’t play ball…

    I have removed the valve block again and remade all the external connectors to be sure. My soapy spray tells me there are no leaks

    I now have a couple of symptoms…

    Sensor Failure.. I have ordered a couple of new sensors from Island 4x4 (thanks guys for the quick turn around) and will fit them when the arrive…

    Rear Drop… The rear of the truck is dropping to the stops when the engine is off… This happens even if I remove the Delay Timer. The Front stays up with the timer out but drops (I assume due to auto levelling) with the timer in. The reservoir empties with the timer in also.

    So, to my questions….

    1) From the posts I am assuming I’ve got a leak to the rear… Is there anything in the valve block I could have screwed up which would cause this across both back springs…
    2) Is there something else that could be causing this drop even with the delay timer out that isn’t a leak?
    3) Is it plausible that I have caused leaks at the rear in both springs when I swapped the sensors… like popping the bags off the shaft or something

    I suppose I am worried I have done something bad in the valve block that is causing a leak through some common valve

    Sorry for the long post. I try and tell my wife this detailed stuff but she glazes over so I needed an outlet ?

    Jaitt
    1999 HSE 4.6
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

Closed Thread
Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Similar Threads

  1. EAS troubleshooting
    By rnieckau in forum Range Rover Mark II / P38
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: April 8th, 2014, 11:57 AM
  2. Another EAS Troubleshooting request
    By Trob32 in forum Range Rover Mark III / L322
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: February 20th, 2010, 08:07 PM
  3. EAS troubleshooting
    By rrdude in forum Range Rover Mark II / P38
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: March 28th, 2008, 02:52 AM
  4. EAS troubleshooting
    By KARamsay in forum Range Rover Mark II / P38
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: November 17th, 2005, 05:57 PM
  5. troubleshooting my EAS... Help needed :-)
    By iyada in forum Range Rover Mark II / P38
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: October 9th, 2005, 07:17 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.3.0