**INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips - Page 3
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Thread: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

  1. #31
    SOPHOMORE ROVER
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    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    can someone explain me how Pressure Relief Valve works, cose im desperate, i just did valve block, bus still i got the same problem, pup works allmoust constantly, its just shut off after that front gose a little bit up, then some minor corectionson hights and compresor kick in again, and all this goes non stop, if ill shut of pup by the program from laptom, every thing is ok, but if all runs on auto, it comes back again, i did reserc and found Pressure Relief Valve failjure can lead to sistem not reach the presure
    plzzzz i need advaice, couse im desperate
    thanx in advance
    RR se 2000 v8 4.0, Lpg conversion, arnotts gen 3, 2" lift/Bridgestoune Dueler D673 33"x12.5 r15 bmw steel wheels/T-MAX EW-12500 [HEAVY DUTY] winch http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2121042

    P.S. sorry for spelling and "broken" language
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  3. #32
    JUNIOR ROVER
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    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    tomo...

    my delight was short lived when I went to install my cable...

    Fuse #35 on MY2000HSE is a 10 amp for aircon and airsuspension.
    Fuse #44 is a 30 amp for engine management system ...

    back to the drawing board for alternate switched supply...but the idea is sound!
    cheers
    “This is one race of people for whom psychoanalysis is of no use whatsoever.”
    (Sigmund Freud...referring to Landie owners in general and P38a fanatics in particular..apparently

    MY99 P38 4.6 (Thor) with general personality disorder...
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  4. #33
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    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    Quote Originally Posted by Kancler
    can someone explain me how Pressure Relief Valve works, cose im desperate, i just did valve block, bus still i got the same problem, pup works allmoust constantly, its just shut off after that front gose a little bit up, then some minor corectionson hights and compresor kick in again, and all this goes non stop, if ill shut of pup by the program from laptom, every thing is ok, but if all runs on auto, it comes back again, i did reserc and found Pressure Relief Valve failjure can lead to sistem not reach the presure
    plzzzz i need advaice, couse im desperate
    thanx in advance
    pressure relief pops at about 200 psi, it will be a shotgun blast of air. your symptoms are exactly what happens when the non-return valves leak by (the 3 little spring loaded valves inside the blocks..)

    and the previous with a weak compressor, yes, all you need is the piston seal.
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  6. #34
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    how screwed am i?

    so i rebuilt the valve block, and compressor, everything went fine with valve block, but when i was putting the compressor back together one of the bolts holding the end plate of the compressor broke! so now i only got two bolts holding the end plate of compressor together, yesterday when i installed the eas box back into the truck it took a while for the truck to raise but it did, now today i turned on the car and the truck rose just a little then it stopped, i turned off the engine and i really couldnt hear or see any leaks (used soap method), i tried running the compressor just by itself (jumper wire) and it ran for a while but still the truck would not raise, could the stripped bolt have anything to do with it?

    another thing, after a while of running the compressor got super hot so i just gave up for today instead of risking anything else that could go run by burning out that thing. One thing i did notice was that i didnt hear a clicking sound from the valve block, anything i should be checking with that?

    anybody have any other suggestions?
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  7. #35
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    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    the endplate bolt shouldn't cause you any issues, it's on the suction side of the compressor. it may put extra stress on the other 2 bolts and cause problems, but that will be slow. fix the bolt on your own time...

    the compressor will take about 7 minutes to fill the tank, if it's trying to lift AND fill the tank it'll take much longer.
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  8. #36
    SOPHOMORE ROVER
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    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    ok, i rebiuld whole block, i have even did new non return valves, all simptoms i descraibed earlier, stayed, but now new aded, even with relay out it goes after some time to hiegest position
    ppl im doomed, need any advaice, if is still non return valves, r there any procedure to check them ?
    RR se 2000 v8 4.0, Lpg conversion, arnotts gen 3, 2" lift/Bridgestoune Dueler D673 33"x12.5 r15 bmw steel wheels/T-MAX EW-12500 [HEAVY DUTY] winch http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2121042

    P.S. sorry for spelling and "broken" language
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  9. #37
    JUNIOR ROVER
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    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    Hi Kancler
    have similar issues...truck sometimes rises to max height when parked at standard height, but does not rise when parked in highway or access mode.

    Sesnsors:
    I swapped the front sensors left to right and the same with the rear ones. Pump still makes what appears to be momentary corrections especially in the first 10 mins or so of driving then seems to settle down ...a bit!

    Pump Motor Thrust ring
    I removed the "useless" plastic thrust ring from the pump motor (see the "falconworks website)

    Pump Piston
    I replaced the piston in the pump and it now charges the tank in just a few minutes.

    Leaks?
    The truck does not drop more than a couple of mm over 4 days when parked...no leaks

    Valve Block
    I rebuilt the valve block (twice) then replaced it with a new one...in desparation...because the solenoid valves appeared to be shot...now i'm not so sure...
    Even with the new valve block, the front end occasionally "dances" ...wriggles like a dog with fleas then the pump starts etc...

    After all this, am still getting what seems to be "random" pump activity ...sometimes having stopped for just a few mins I restart the truck and it needs a boost to the front to raise the level, other times it's OK. It over fills, rises higher than it should then returns to correct height if I turn off the engine...

    On very hot days (>38 degC) I had a string of hard faults caused by high pressure signal....

    Driver Unit?
    I have had suggestions on this forum that the driver unit may be on the way out...am thinking that may be the case....I had a look at the underside of the driver box attached to the valve block...looks heat shocked ...don't know if this is normal. will probably import one from the UK...about half the local price even including the postage

    don't know if this helps...

    ps Your English is OK ...much better than my Lithuanian!!
    “This is one race of people for whom psychoanalysis is of no use whatsoever.”
    (Sigmund Freud...referring to Landie owners in general and P38a fanatics in particular..apparently

    MY99 P38 4.6 (Thor) with general personality disorder...
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  10. #38
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    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    Quote Originally Posted by 996TURBO
    Interesting, i have similar issues : random activity of a rebuilt compressor.
    I do have the gauge kit to track any loss at the air tank.
    This thing kicks for no reason at 140 psi to fill to the max instead of waiting for the low psi limit which is i believe 110

    every pressure switch is different, I've seen some cycle from 110-120 to others at 140-150psi, it's all in the manufacturing tolerance. If it cycles correctly, don't worry about the exact pressure.
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  11. #39
    LEGACY VENDOR 996TURBO's Avatar
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    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    All right but is it normal that in a process of filling the air tank, the thing kicks in, then off, then in ?
    Thermal switch is new.
    There's no loss of pression at all at the gauge.
    I believe i need a new drive box too.
    1997 P38 4.6
    LPG
    SD L322 Rack adapted to P38
    DC5000 EAS Compressor
    Arnott Gen3
    RR-EVOLUTION protection for P38 : front diff guard, rear diff guard, steering guard, fuel tank
    32 inch BF KM2 tires
    Custom Mantec Snorkel
    RPI Sport Exhaust
    H4 Bixenons bulbs
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  12. #40
    JUNIOR ROVER Jsmooth65's Avatar
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    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    Quote Originally Posted by tomo
    Hi

    I have designed and manufactured and installed a bypass cable, to disable the autoleveling "feature" on the P38 Rangies - Its a godsend !!!! Costs about $1.75, takes 20 seconds to install and reduces EAS faults by 90% (assuming you dont have a fault already!!!!)

    Much of the EAS valve switching, clicks, clacks, pump running, wheel dancing etc etc are some design gurus idea of a cool feature - alias "crap".

    We drive our rangies on average 5% of the day but the EAS is operational 24 hours a day to make the rangie look "cute" - You guessed it I'm a cynical fellow !

    The enclosed document provides details for the cable and mugshots

    What does it do!
    Pretty simple really - It turns the EAS system on when the ignition is on and off when the ignition is off!!!! - (Bit like a thermos flask) The cable picks up +12v power from a spare fuse position in the fuse box and uses that supply, instead of the always on power supply.

    Read the docy and you will understand - If you dont search - EBAY for a "Rangie EAS Bypass Cable" kit - It comes with cable, labels, terminals and install instructions fitted all ready to install. You can get your garage or sparkie to make you one - PLEASE LABEL THE FUSEBOX and CABLE if you make your own as most garages wont know its there and you will pay em to find it!!!!!!!

    Big Photos at
    http://www.TomoPhoto.P38RREASWakeup.PhotoShare.co.nz


    If you make and install your own cable - Donations towards more Rangie innovations will be gladly accepted via paypal ([email protected])
    (I have automatic headlights (another wonderful P38 design guru feature ...!) complete with headlights off during starting too !!!! installed on my truck.)

    The fuses mentioned in this document apparently don't match Bosch fuseboxes. Anybody got an idea as to which fuse numbers should be substituted?
    '99 Range Rover HSE armored and super-EAS'd
    '15 BMW M235ix
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  13. #41
    JUNIOR ROVER Jsmooth65's Avatar
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    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    F29 is the EAS fuse in the Bosch box. Now to find a sub for F35...RAVE says F5 and F16 arent used, but I don't know if they switch on with the ignition. I'll check tonight.
    '99 Range Rover HSE armored and super-EAS'd
    '15 BMW M235ix
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  14. #42
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    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    From a PM


    After researching my EAS "soft failure" twice in 90 degree heat over the last 2 days, I am wondering which is the better place to start,

    replaced my airsprings with Arnott gen III's, rebuilt compressor. My system has no leaks, and has never had any EAS problems,

    recurring fault code = "Pressure switch not changing state" as reported ny my eas kicker. It fails to the high position, with the associated flashing lights on the height selector and a brief EAS fault msg.

    After much searching and reading, where should I begin? Replace the pressure switch or do the "Brush box" mod. (I'm sure your familiar but here is the link to the brush box repair http://www.falconworks.net/eas/Brushbox.htm) or what do you reccomend?
    Neither...

    If the pump doesn't rattle at the brush end, it doesn't need the brush box mod/repair (yet).

    If the pump cycles normally the pressure switch is fine (very robust units, never seen a bad one, I have several used available)

    the "pressure switch not changing state" fault is typically a red herring, the actual issue is a failing driver module (assuming your compressor is in good shape). The ECU logic isn't very sophisticated so will grab the first fault code that meets the criteria programmed in. Pressure switch faults are almost always a driver module failure. the drivers are affected by heat, worse when they are starting to fail, so the warm days could have an connection to the faults coming up.
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  15. #43
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: EAS compressor not starting

    OK so I thought I would install one of those EAS bypass kits just in case mine failed somewhere at sometime.
    Bloody brilliant I might add and works a treat but.....

    History – My system was working fine before installation maybe a little slow to rise but hard to tell. Certainly I had checked it by pulling the relay under the LHS seat next to the EAS controller and NO deflating over a two day period.

    Added the EAS bypass and tested by pulling the relay again. The car stays up and level for several days so as far as I am concerned there is NO leaks from the valve block side to the bags. Sprayed all connections with soapy water and no sign of leaks.

    Now my problem is the EAS compressor doesn’t seem to want to start? The only thing I have touched is the relay and the airlines. Bloody coincidence.

    I checked the faults using Storey Wilson’s software (none) and can manually activate the compressor using the same software. Fills the tank in 5- 10min to around 140 PSI so from that perspective I believe the compressor is working. I have checked the relevant fuses but not the relay but given I can manually turn it on using the software which I believe is akin to manually jumping the connections electrically the system should be fine?

    I have checked the thermal cutout switch for continuity and that seems fine!
    What next?

    I guess it could be the drive box or the EAS controller or the pressure switch?

    My thought is the pressure switch might have failed and therefore not kicking the compressor back in when it gets below 110 PSI like it should. With a full take of air the suspension will fill to HIGH mode but drain down to around 50 PSI in the process and the compressor doesn’t kick in during that process.

    When I turn the key to position 2 I can hear the compressor kick in for less than a second but then nothing . As said above can then manually start it with the software and away she goes fine and dandy.

    I also read somewhere about the brushes causing a similar issue in the compressor but that doesn’t really make sense to me if the compressor runs fine using the software.

    Desperate for ideas of what could be wrong and maybe instructions to test the pressure switch.

    Only good thing is the EAS bypass works a treat but I would like my conventional EAS back.
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  16. #44
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    Hi!!

    I change the diaphragm and the 3 orings from the non return valve (they are little used, the metal not only the orings ) and what a difference, almost one year after I bought the RR, I have the "flying carpet" ride, and with not 100% shocks.

    But 1000 kms after, now I still have some problems and the ride is now a little more harsher like it was before.
    So what´s wrong?
    1. The car sometimes run little "high", but when I stop the engine, he goes to the +- correct position??? any ideas?
    2. Sometimes also the entire right is more up then the left.

    Can my problem be from the EAS Ecu? From the man site
    Sensor Out of Range
    Some owners have reported the fault condition appearing after replacing the shocks or even jacking the vehicle up on a lift -- presumably the problem here is the axles moving outside the normal range causing a "sensor out of range" signal. If you are replacing the shocks, it might be advisable to disable the EAS and be careful not to move the axles to extreme positions. Another possible cause of this signal is a bad EAS ECU -- in 1998 thre was a Technical Service Bulletin, number 0007, "INCONSISTENT RIDE HEIGHT - ELECTRONIC AIR SUSPENSION (EAS)", admitting that bad ECUs were interpreting valid height sensor signals as outside range. The affected vehicles were in the VIN number range from VA 346794 to WA 409701. The remedy was to replace the ECU (part number RQT100040).
    mine is a MY99 with VIN XA 415??? I check the values from the height sensor and they look ok!!

    But the good news is that the dance in the lights stop

    Thanks
    Sorry for my eventually bad English...

    Paulo Santos

    99MY RR DSE Epson Green
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  17. #45
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    re: **INFO** EAS Troubleshooting Tips

    Quote Originally Posted by Jos Geuze
    Hi

    Some strange problem exists with my EAS at the moment.

    During the time the car is parked it will gradually lower the car to the bump stops. At first I tought a leaking spring, air line or valve block but could not find any leak. Reservoir pressure remains at 10 bar.
    Then I took out the eas timer 15 minutes after the car was parked and cooled down. The next morning the car was at the same height as when I left it with the timer unplugged. Plugged the relay back in and read and cleared the fault codes and all was well for the day but the next day again lowered car overnight.
    Checked the ECU memory: No faults.

    Because of this behavior every morning we have to give time to the EAS system to pump back the pressure into the tank. The moment you start it will self level and the car comes up but there is not enough air pressure to lift it up completly (The tank pressure drops from 10 to 5 bar) and the light keeps blinking. If you open a door and wait for the compressor to refill the tank to 10 bar the car self levels and all problems are gone for that day. It looks like the springs are completly deflating overnight without any pressure left in them.

    Anybody came across this behavior? What did you do to solve this problem?

    Regards

    Jos

    Height sensor calibration, you've got one or more that the values have changed (will happen over time, normal age) or is dying. It will lower itself to find level, and keep going down till to access. if the value for access height is BELOW the value the bumpstops are actually at, it will continue to release air trying to get it down untill there is no air left.
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