Doing brakes on 2000 4.0 HSE - gotchas to watch out for?
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Thread: Doing brakes on 2000 4.0 HSE - gotchas to watch out for?

  1. #1
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Doing brakes on 2000 4.0 HSE - gotchas to watch out for?

    I am going to do the brakes on my 2000 4.0 HSE Bosch truck. The brakes are too far gone, will need rotors (discs) and pads for sure. The rubber seals that protect the caliper pistons are in sad shape, I am considering buying caliper rebuild kits and bleeding the brakes. Looks like the brakes were neglected, so fluid is likely overdue for replacement anyway.

    Has anybody here had good/bad luck with caliper rebuild? I am going to buy the rebuild kit from Atlantic British, I don't trust the britpart kits. Any feedback on caliper rebuild kits is welcome. The calipers aren't all that expensive ($150 new, $70-ish rebuilt), the rebuild kit is $30. Should I just get the caliper? The brakes worked, but seemed sticky. The truck sat for a long time. The pistons don't appear to be rusty where it matters (on the working surfaces).

    The dust shields ("disc shields") are both rusted and damaged, where can I get new ones? I can't seem to find them.

    I am planning to bleed the brakes using a either conventional one-man method or using a vacuum pump (I got a mityvac). Some cars with fancy ABS require a scan tool to operate (open/close) the valves of the ABS system during bleeding. Factory manual for P38 does not seem to suggest that this is necessary. Are there any P38-specific gotchas that I need to be aware of? The Wabco is a rather unconventional hydroboost type off-road ABS system, so I would not be surprised if it had some unusual quirks.

    Back when I used to own Discos I seem to remember needing a diagnostic tool for the brakes, but it was more than a few years ago and I forgot why I needed it.

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  3. #2
    SOPHOMORE ROVER
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    Re: Doing brakes on 2000 4.0 HSE - gotchas to watch out for?

    The callipers are nothing special, take them apart, clean them, put new grease (and new seals if needed) in them and assamble them again.

    The manual says a complicated bleeding procedure with pushing the brake pedal and close the breeder valve, it can be done way easier!
    Get yourself this thing; https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hand-Hel...YAAOSwmwFchy5i

    Open the bleed valve, connect the bleeder, suck 2 containers full per front wheel, close bleed valve, do this each front wheel, usually you go from longest line to shortest, can't remember if the P38 is the same.

    Rear wheels are very easy, after that do front wheels again.

  4. #3
    JUNIOR ROVER
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    Re: Doing brakes on 2000 4.0 HSE - gotchas to watch out for?

    Brake job on a P38 is a fairly straight forward ordeal, so If you've done brake jobs before it should be fairly easy.

    I think the key is to buying quality caliper rebuild kit. I've bought some rebuild kits before that comprised of pretty poorly spec'ed parts that I could not use. Buy quality kits. Caliper piston boots always perish fairly quickly due to the environment it's put in, so having perished piston boots don't necessarily indicate that it was neglected. Better barometer of that would be the condition of guide pins. If the pins are properly lubricated, moving smoothly, the unit was probably well looked after.

    Only gotcha to watch out for that I can think of are the removal of rotor screws. Make sure you use an impact driver to remove them. Otherwise, you're going to round them out and cause whole bunch of unnecessary mess. I believe the screws are Pozi #4, so make sure you use the right bit.

    As for bleeding, I prefer to follow the RAVE. The process takes about an hour to properly do it, but I just go by the book.
    02 P38
    SoCal, USA

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  6. #4
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Doing brakes on 2000 4.0 HSE - gotchas to watch out for?

    Thank you very much for the advice, I really appreciate it. I have a handheld vacuum pump, I'll give it a shot and see how well it works. if not, I'll do the procedure by the book.

  7. #5
    JUNIOR ROVER
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    Re: Doing brakes on 2000 4.0 HSE - gotchas to watch out for?

    Rebuild yourself or a $70 rebuilt is a tough call, I guess it depends on how much time you have. I wouldn't worry much about the shields unless they are completely falling apart.
    '99 Range Rover HSE
    '02 Audi S6

  8. #6
    SOPHOMORE ROVER
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    Re: Doing brakes on 2000 4.0 HSE - gotchas to watch out for?

    Quote Originally Posted by jteuvonnen View Post
    Thank you very much for the advice, I really appreciate it. I have a handheld vacuum pump, I'll give it a shot and see how well it works. if not, I'll do the procedure by the book.
    You have to do the front brakes twice, front first, than rear, than front again. (according to the book)

  9. #7
    SENIOR ROVER
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    Re: Doing brakes on 2000 4.0 HSE - gotchas to watch out for?

    Just done my brakes when rebuilding the axles. Only things I would add: wire brush the threads on the caliper bolts and use lots of Coppaslip. Clean and polish the guide pins with wirewool and regrease with silicone grease, it is more water proof. Fit new rotor screws when you reassemble.
    The rear dust shields are expensive for what they are. They are just a piece of pressed steel. https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rear-br...lr-p-3421.html
    2000 Range Rover 2.5 DSE HP24 auto, uprated torque converter - JFearn chip, larger intercooler, removable winch, stainless exhaust, alloy radiator, Gen III's, Terrafirma +2" shocks, GG AT2's. Faultmate MSV2. Land Rover folding mountain bike with 1000W electric motor.
    ex-1996 Discovery 2.5 300Tdi diesel auto
    ex-1982 Classic 3.86 Perkins diesel manual

  10. #8
    SOPHOMORE ROVER
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    Re: Doing brakes on 2000 4.0 HSE - gotchas to watch out for?

    You tube. Work on P38. There is a guy in Norway who makes great videos. His one on bleeding the brakes is easy to follow and simple.

    2002 HSE 4.6
    P38 black/black Audi heater core installed, double din radio installed,
    PAC Steering wheel controls and backup camera installed.

  11. #9
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    +1 on rotor screws, and don't over tighten the new ones, they need no torque
    1998 Defender 50th 4.0L V8 Auto
    1998 Range Rover 50th 4.6L V8 Auto
    Toylander Series 2A

    Previously
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  12. #10
    SOPHOMORE ROVER
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    Re: Doing brakes on 2000 4.0 HSE - gotchas to watch out for?

    Quote Originally Posted by ColoradoCrow View Post
    You tube. Work on P38. There is a guy in Norway who makes great videos. His one on bleeding the brakes is easy to follow and simple.
    Is that the one who talks funny?

  13. #11
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Doing brakes on 2000 4.0 HSE - gotchas to watch out for?

    For me accross the pond in USA, i needed to replace the dust shields.
    I ordered them from England for $25 each plus overnight shipping, total 65 bucks and here in the next 1.5 days.

    Locally to me the LR dealer wanted 132 each one.

    go figure.

  14. #12
    SENIOR ROVER
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    Re: Doing brakes on 2000 4.0 HSE - gotchas to watch out for?

    jazzzyjay wrote:

    For me accross the pond in USA, i needed to replace the dust shields.
    I ordered them from England for $25 each plus overnight shipping
    Who did you order them from? I have never seen them that cheap. The rear mud shields are quite a bit more expensive than the fronts. The rears also need a stiffening bracket and that is another £20 or so.

    P38 mud shields are a lot more expensive than either Disco or Defender parts. Why I don't know. It is just a bit of pressed steel.
    2000 Range Rover 2.5 DSE HP24 auto, uprated torque converter - JFearn chip, larger intercooler, removable winch, stainless exhaust, alloy radiator, Gen III's, Terrafirma +2" shocks, GG AT2's. Faultmate MSV2. Land Rover folding mountain bike with 1000W electric motor.
    ex-1996 Discovery 2.5 300Tdi diesel auto
    ex-1982 Classic 3.86 Perkins diesel manual

  15. #13
    NEWBIE
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    Re: Doing brakes on 2000 4.0 HSE - gotchas to watch out for?

    I have a 1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE P38. I bought the upgraded rotors from Atlantic British in 2008 and this is my normal drive vehicle. The brake pads are only half used up now! These are the pads:
    BRIT PARTS KEVLAR BRAKE PADS : DA4339 SFP500130/SFP100470 & DA4336 SFP500150. Amazing life on these brake pads with the upgraded rotors

  16. #14
    LEGACY VENDOR marty_nz's Avatar
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    Re: Doing brakes on 2000 4.0 HSE - gotchas to watch out for?

    As a note on brake bleeding...

    Do it by the book...
    It's not a 'normal' braking system, and I've tried doing it myself in the past, and whilst the vehicle stops - it's never as good as the RAVE procedure. These days I wait until I've got someone else who I can borrow their foot on the brake pedal and do it properly.

    The procedure is a bit long winded - but it's designed around bleeding the modulator block and then the calipers. The reason you have to do the fronts twice is because there is 2 braking circuits for the front - the normal powered system, and then the hydrostatic circuit - which is the non-powered circuit, and is your 'backup' circuit if you like... this works solely on the pedal itself for if the ABS pump or something in the powered circuit fails, then you can still stop. You'll know about it if you need to use it, as you practically have to stand on the brake pedal to make it stop.

    For the sake of a bit of time, some extra dot 4 and a few beers/coffees to get someone to give you a hand - it's worth just doing it properly the first time!
    ------------------------------------------------
    '01 4.6 Vogue Black/Lightstone "Snog" -- Bought Jan 2012
    '99 4.6 HSE Cobar Blue/Lightstone -- Sold March 2009
    '95 4.6 HSE Epsom Green/Tan -- Traded June 2008
    http://p38webshop.co.uk

  17. #15
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Doing brakes on 2000 4.0 HSE - gotchas to watch out for?

    +1 for what Marty says about doing the bleeding by the book. Might be relatively long winded but objectively its actually about the easiest system to bleed that I've ever done.

    It just works. And stays worked.

    Normal cars, especially older ones, always seem throw in a bit off gremlin inspired iffyness. You know the thing. "Is the air really all out or was that a bubble?" "Are you sure thats as hard as the pedal goes?" and worst of all 30 miles down the road the darn thing goes soft again so you get to do it all again.

    I did the nuclear replace everything wheel side on mine back in the summer. Picked up the rotors at £50 a pair genuine a while back and with new TRW calipers £320 for the set, £100 fronts, £60 rears, say £50 for the flexies and I din't see the point of messing about with caliper rebuild kits. Especially as the provenance was, most likely, uncertain. Its well known that Clive is, um, somewhat "less than sane" but shaving a few quid by entrusting the stopping of two tons of car to Britpart is pushing the envelope rather too far.

    Clive

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