those pesky o rings
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Thread: those pesky o rings

  1. #1
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    those pesky o rings

    I'll be doing the o rings on the heater matrix in the next few days... quick show of hands from those who have done it (and not sprung a leak since !!) - did you just dip the o rings in coolant as per rave, or was anyone tempted to use rtv/ silicone/ something else as well?
    1998 Defender 50th 4.0L V8 Auto
    1998 Range Rover 50th 4.6L V8 Auto
    Toylander Series 2A

    Previously
    1980 SIII 2.25 petrol
    1997 200 Tdi CSW
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  3. #2
    FRESHMAN ROVER MarkTr's Avatar
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    Re: those pesky o rings

    Roman-- I simply bought Viton O rings and used an O ring lubricant I have been using for years. No leaks from the O rings the last three months. Of course, I have other coolant leaks just to keep me on my toes.
    2000 Holland and Holland
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  4. #3
    SENIOR ROVER
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    Re: those pesky o rings

    never ever use silicone sealant with O rings, in the past I have doused in coolant or used a bit of vaseline, just enough to make them slide with out pinching. wd40 can be another option if nothing else is available.
    2k p38 4.6
    95 lwb 4.6
    01 d2 4.0
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  6. #4
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: those pesky o rings

    Don't bother just replacing the o-rings. You will just have the issue again.

    The problem is the design and having one single screw to hold the matrix to the metal tubes that run through the firewall. Both the matrix and tubes in the firewall are rigid with no flexibility allowed. At the auction between them the single screw just does not have enough force to hold them together with all the vibrations of a car.

    Best to replace it with the Audi matrix or cut the tubes after the junction with the matrix and run heater hose through the firewall. This way there is some give and flex at the junction.

    Either way is better than just replacing the o-rings.

    And yes I replaced only the o-rings the first time around only to do the entire Audi matrix a year later.
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  7. #5
    JUNIOR ROVER
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    Re: those pesky o rings

    If you are using genuine O rings then they should last as long as the originals. The single screw is quite sufficient as it isn't intended to hold the tubes rigid. If you look at the design, the screw holds the plate but that plate has lugs around the outer edge so the tubes aren't held rigid but rely on the flexibility of the O rings to seal and also to allow movement. They only leak when the O rings lose their flexibility and go hard.

    If you follow the instructions (https://www.rangerovers.net/repairde...ateroring.html) and use a long (300mm or longer) PZ2 screwdriver it is usually a straightforward job. I've done them 7 times now (on 7 different cars) and only once have I had to drill the head off the screw. A dob of coarse grinding paste on the end of the screwdriver will make it grip the screw better and you may also find trying to tighten it first will crack it free. If the screw head is damaged or if you do have to drill it, an M5 Allen bolt is a far better option should it ever need to come out again (in another 18 years or so).
    96 4.6HSE
    98 4.0 Police spec
    and a number of others I maintain for the owners.
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  8. #6
    SOPHOMORE ROVER
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    Re: those pesky o rings

    I did it, normal O-rings, put some grease on your fingers, roll the O-rings in your fingers so the surface has a bit of grease on it, and put them in.

    Cut a hole in the center console behind the covers, the job is than done in about 7 hours, in a very easy pace.. Take your time, don't hurry, don't get stressed, it's not too hard..
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  9. #7
    SOPHOMORE ROVER
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    Re: those pesky o rings

    Quote Originally Posted by KeninNC View Post
    Don't bother just replacing the o-rings. You will just have the issue again.

    The problem is the design and having one single screw to hold the matrix to the metal tubes that run through the firewall. Both the matrix and tubes in the firewall are rigid with no flexibility allowed. At the auction between them the single screw just does not have enough force to hold them together with all the vibrations of a car.

    Best to replace it with the Audi matrix or cut the tubes after the junction with the matrix and run heater hose through the firewall. This way there is some give and flex at the junction.

    Either way is better than just replacing the o-rings.

    And yes I replaced only the o-rings the first time around only to do the entire Audi matrix a year later.
    Uhm, the tubes through the fire wall are not rigid at all! If that's the case you have an other problem..
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  10. #8
    SENIOR ROVER
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    Re: those pesky o rings

    Quote Originally Posted by Reinhoud View Post
    I did it, normal O-rings, put some grease on your fingers, roll the O-rings in your fingers so the surface has a bit of grease on it, and put them in.

    Cut a hole in the center console behind the covers, the job is than done in about 7 hours, in a very easy pace.. Take your time, don't hurry, don't get stressed, it's not too hard..
    on left hand drive, use two sets of needle nose vise grips, gently pinch heater hoses above right side valve cover, undo heater hoses. with compressed air blow into heater core to remove coolant. inside, remove glove box, center console side covers, radio and hevac control. using a 18 to 24 inch long phillips screw driver, guide with one hand and drive with other, undo screw, separate pipes replace O rings.
    reverse procedure.
    tops with out experience 3 hrs, with experience 45 minutes max. 7 hrs is almost dealer time and removing dash.
    don't need to cut or modify anything at all. I'm sure right hand drive may be easier and possible faster as glove box is opposite.
    2k p38 4.6
    95 lwb 4.6
    01 d2 4.0
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  11. #9
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: those pesky o rings

    Thanks everyone, I'm building the longest PH2 screwdriver I can find !!
    1998 Defender 50th 4.0L V8 Auto
    1998 Range Rover 50th 4.6L V8 Auto
    Toylander Series 2A

    Previously
    1980 SIII 2.25 petrol
    1997 200 Tdi CSW
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  12. #10
    JUNIOR ROVER
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    Re: those pesky o rings

    NOT PH2, PZ2, it's Pozidrive not Philips. A PH2 will round it out the first time you apply any grunt to it.
    96 4.6HSE
    98 4.0 Police spec
    and a number of others I maintain for the owners.
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  13. #11
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Roger that
    1998 Defender 50th 4.0L V8 Auto
    1998 Range Rover 50th 4.6L V8 Auto
    Toylander Series 2A

    Previously
    1980 SIII 2.25 petrol
    1997 200 Tdi CSW
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  14. #12
    JUNIOR ROVER
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    Re: those pesky o rings

    Last time I had a leak from the heater core area, turned out that the problem was not orings but the heater core itself. Make sure you test out the system while you have access to the heater core, so that you don't have to disassemble everything again.
    02 P38
    SoCal, USA
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  15. #13
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    At the moment I've bypassed the core (joined the hoses under the bonnet) and I was going to fill the core with water first, but I haven't worked out how to pressurise it yet, maybe I'll just bridge both Ali tubes with a bike inner tube plus scraper valve. I observed the drips coming from the lower seal tho, so fingers crossed it's not the core, I assume then the leak obviously comes from the housing?
    1998 Defender 50th 4.0L V8 Auto
    1998 Range Rover 50th 4.6L V8 Auto
    Toylander Series 2A

    Previously
    1980 SIII 2.25 petrol
    1997 200 Tdi CSW
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  16. #14
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Schrader valve. Predictive text drives me mad
    1998 Defender 50th 4.0L V8 Auto
    1998 Range Rover 50th 4.6L V8 Auto
    Toylander Series 2A

    Previously
    1980 SIII 2.25 petrol
    1997 200 Tdi CSW
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  17. #15
    SENIOR ROVER
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    Re: those pesky o rings

    I did my o-rings I guess about 7 years ago. The car is now 19 years old, so the orignal seals lasted around 12 years from new. I replaced them with OEM and also fitted a stainless steel allen bolt. The job took about 3 hours including drilling a hole to get better access. Next time round I reckon I could do it in under one hour. Never had a leak since.
    Not keen on the audi heater core mod. Hoses perish just the same as o-rings and having hoses and hose clips behind the dash is not a good idea.
    2000 Range Rover 2.5 DSE HP24 auto, uprated torque converter - JFearn chip, larger intercooler, removable winch, stainless exhaust, alloy radiator, Gen III's, Terrafirma +2" shocks, GG AT2's. Faultmate MSV2. Land Rover folding mountain bike with 1000W electric motor.
    ex-1996 Discovery 2.5 300Tdi diesel auto
    ex-1982 Classic 3.86 Perkins diesel manual
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