So, I've been intrigued for awhile about the issues that there are with window switchpacks - randomly failing, or switches becoming intermittent.
Sometimes, yes a blast of contact cleaner works, or it works for awhile and then it starts playing up again.
We've got a P38 in the workshop that we are fixing up to sell, rather than break it for parts - and the other day I noticed that the window switches were playing up. They had all been working fine, but now they were intermittent at best.
So, being that I like to pull things apart, and because I wanted to see if it was fixable rather than chuck it out and buy a replacement - which will be second hand anyway, I got it on the work bench this afternoon and stripped it right back. I did a test run on one of them to see if it was a case of being able to repair, before breaking out the camera and taking photos... Pix or it didn't happen, right?
What I found (before I get into the pictures and the steps I took) was that the little metal disc that is actually the 'switch' looks to get tarnished over time, and on one of them I saw there was a tiny spot of corrosion build up too - which was causing the connection to be intermittent.
So I'll start from the point where you've got the window switchpack out of the vehicle, on a bench - and the switch module removed from the trim and the board unclipped from this. On my one there were a bunch of Torx head screws holding the switch module to the trim. I think they were either a T10 or T15. I just grabbed the screwdriver off the shelf and didn't check what it was!
So, you've got this board in front of you, with a whole load of dust and crud on it, and a bunch of switches that don't work... The first step is to take the switch caps off. The one I was working on I could unclip them with my fingers but pulling up one side, and then following with the other. Technically you don't NEED to remove them, but I found it useful at the end to make sure everything was still sitting in place after the clear light pipe octopus was put back in place.
(the Rear Inhibit switch was my test one so was put back together and tested by this point!)
So next, turn the board upside down and you get a view of the bottom of the switches like this:
Take a sharp knife and then cut off the black plastic tips of the switch housings. Be careful removing them as you want to put them to one side for later... We'll use them to help hold the switches back on after the fixing is done.
You should end up with something looking a bit like this:
You should then be able to remove the switch from the board. Sometimes they need a bit of persuasion from a thin spudger (though I was able to pull most of mine off with a bit of a wiggle)
And you end up with this:
And the board looking like this:
Then take your sharp knife again (I use a scalpel for these smaller bits) and cut the tape around the switch pads so they can be removed:
Then remove the switch pads and you'll have a board that looks like this:
And then you get the switch pads separate. as you can see, there is some tarnishing on one side of these.
I then used a small screwdriver just to scratch the surface and scrub the tarnishing off of it. I will continue in the next post, as I can only put 10 pictures in a post....