Battery Terminal Question
  1. Welcome to – General discussion forum for Range Rovers

    Welcome to - a website dedicated to all things Range Rovers.

    You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, Join today!
+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: Battery Terminal Question

  1. #1
    Premium Member
    Join Date
    October 1st, 2005
    Atlanta, GA, US

    Battery Terminal Question

    Right now I have an OEM Interstate battery.

    It has SAE terminals.

    Would there be any reason that I would or would not want to change to a battery with threaded terminals ?

    Aside from replacing the existing cables with ones that are threaded-terminal friendly.


    Odyssey PC 2150 S - Threaded Terminals ... ttery.html


    Odyssey PC 2150 T : SAE Terminals ... ttery.html

    (Once again I find myself asking the simplest of questions. Sorry about my continued noob-ness).

    Bonus Question: What does a battery's having (or not having) a metal jacket mean ?
    P38: 1999 Bosch

  2. Remove Advertisements
    Range Rovers Forum

  3. #2
    Join Date
    December 6th, 2006
    Denver, CO
    I was asking myself the same question a few weeks ago. I went with the Odyssey Batteries PC1500 Battery, with standard SAE terminals. The battery is a drop in replacement for the OEM battery. No need to change cable lengths or modify battery box. I did however, have to put some plastic shims between the top of the battery and the battery bracket.

    If you have the money for the Odyssey Batteries PC2150 Battery, then go for it. I would however stick with the standard SAE terminal posts. The threaded can get anoying if you have to rewire you terminal connectors and anoying to clean.

    The metal jacket is just to provide an extra layer of strength in the battery box itself. So if you happen to drop it or use it outside the car like in a boat or something it has more protection. I really do not see the purpose of the metal jacket when the batttery is going to already be surrounded by metal inside you car under the hood.
    R. Storey Wilson
    - 1996 4.6 HSE
    A Healthy EAS At 130,000
    - 2003 HSE
    Tried to Kill Me...
    - 2008 LR3
    Miss the Range Rover.

  4. #3
    Premium Member
    Join Date
    October 1st, 2005
    Atlanta, GA, US
    Hey Malafax,


    I appreciate it.

    I just called Interstate Batteries' customer service (not sales). I explained my question to the girl who answered the phone. she said, "Let me transfer you to 'heavy duty'." She then did so.

    The heavy duty service guy said that the threaded posts are designed for trucks / machinery that the operators (generally) cannot repair themselves.

    If a road tractor (aka semi tractor) or a dozer stops working, it costs a lot of money in downtime, takes longer to get a mechanic to it, and the 'service call' minimum charge for such mechanics is pretty big.

    Not in a million years does somebody want to have a piece of equipment down for a day, and then pay $ 300+ for a mechanic to come out and say, "Your battery cable came loose".

    He said that the current does not pass through the threaded studs. The connection occurs around the base of the studs. The studs and their threads are there to hold the cables there.

    Apparently that is a more dependable connection than the one provided by an SAE terminal - especially in applications that make it more subject to vibration / shaking.

    He added that, since the current does not pass through the threaded posts (which are typically stainless steel), there are occasions when the current causes the threaded posts to fry - melt, actually. The post melts, the cable becomes disconnected - no more power. And no more battery.

    Why / how / when that would happen, I don't know. The machinations of electrical currents have always eluded my understanding - so I didn't bother asking.

    He said that does not happen with SAE terminals.

    So, even though the odds of an SAE post connection shaking loose might be greater, it's the smarter way to go. In the profoundly unlikely event that it did come loose - we would open the hood, see it, and fix it ourselves in no time (more or less).

    If we had a threaded terminal post battery, and the post melted, we would be royally boned.

    So, SAE terminals it is.
    P38: 1999 Bosch

+ Reply to Thread

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Similar Threads

  1. Changing the negative battery terminal cable on 01 4.6HSE
    By rover guy 01 in forum Range Rover Mark II / P38
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: October 10th, 2011, 11:25 PM
  2. Clock is that terminal?
    By TheBoss in forum Range Rover Mark II / P38
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: April 5th, 2011, 10:24 PM
  3. Trailer wiring - extra terminal
    By Rowant in forum Range Rover Mark II / P38
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: January 29th, 2010, 01:40 PM
  4. Coil pack terminal and cylinder numbering.
    By jap in forum Range Rover Mark II / P38
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: March 5th, 2007, 05:56 AM
  5. No nut on starter terminal - battery prob. fine
    By BargePilot in forum Range Rover Mark II / P38
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: November 27th, 2006, 12:53 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.3.0