Radiator probs - overheating - Round 2 :(
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Thread: Radiator probs - overheating - Round 2 :(

  1. #1
    JUNIOR ROVER wills's Avatar
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    Radiator probs - overheating - Round 2 :(

    ok, so as some of you may of read I had my radiator blow up on me last week. So, now the radiator has been replaced and all seemed well...

    ...until this evening. Was coming back from my weekly journey to Oxford (around 40ish miles away) and had just got off the motorway when my beady eye that is now glued to the temp gauge spots it creeping up and up. It was at 3/4 and I knew something wasn't right, pulled off within about 10-15 secs and sat in a gateway and with engine off. Couldn't see any problems BUT the one thing I DID notice was that the 2 big pipes going to and from the radiator seemed pretty rock solid when I tried to squeeze them (I don't quite know what this means but im sure in previous times they were much more squeezeable).

    Anyway, sat there, made a few phone calls, waited for it to cool down and carried on with my journey, slowly at first (55mph) and then gradually built it back to about 70 and all seemed fine all the way home.

    Got home, checked everything again and the pipes still seemed pretty hard. Left it for about quarter of an hour when my father then went out and took a look and came to the conclusion that nothing was wrong but he took the header tank cap off to release any air locks (his idea of what might be wrong) and then replaced it. The pipes to and from the radiator became more how I expected them at this point, much more squeezy.

    Brilliant I thought, that was probably the problem and I went off to go and have some dinner. Of course while im out it started creeping up again and overheating, got just past 3/4 this time, almost at the end of the white area so again I quickly pulled over and switched off. Waited a while and then got back home ASAP while keeping a close eye on the gauge, checked the pipes again which were still nice and squeezy and soft and left it and come inside.

    So, does anyone have any ideas what might be the problem or what I should check first thing tomorrow?? Ive read up in RAVE how to bleed the cooling system so think I might try that in case there are any airlocks. Could it maybe be the thermostat as it probably sat dry all over the weekend while waiting for a new radiator??

    I just don't know on this one and to be honest I'm about ready to kick her hard if she doesn't start working properly

    I just hope I haven't done any damage to the engine at all. The oil looks clean and so does the coolant so im still pretty sure its not the head gasket.

    Anyone have any suggestions...??

    -Wills
    98 Range Rover 2.5 DSE Auto
    Faultmate MSV
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...kon80/sig4.jpg

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  3. #2
    N2O
    N2O is offline
    SOPHOMORE ROVER
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    check your viscous fan coupling, if bad - replace
    3x RR 2,5 DSE

  4. #3
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    if its hot out perhaps your auxiliary fan isn't switching on when necessary?

    On my 96 hse I had an overheating problem that turned out to be simply a bad earth connection from the alternator to the chassis, it’s a thick 8” long cable and is easy to locate. There are a few threads about this problem, its fairly common. I'm not sure if 98's would be affected.
    95 SWB

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  6. #4
    SOPHOMORE ROVER
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    Hi Wills
    I'm in the same boat! I've just changed the head gaskets, had the heads checked and faced up, valves lapped etc. I road tested 2 days ago after bleeding the air out and all seemed fine but possibly a bit hard on the pipes as yours is. Day 2, I noticed the gauge jump up to 3/4 and stopped as you did. I have a small container sat under the overflow pipe to check for overpressure in the system and this verified the cap (new) had vented. More water added when cool and a further road test. This time the gauge went to 3/4 only on a long motorway hill. Let cool a little (no water expelled this time but added a little more. Next test carried out at ballistic speed ( for a rangie!) without problems. As I was still not confident with the situation I verified the viscous fan loaded up as it should and checked for debris within the rad fins which was fairly clear. I have now removed the rad, flushed many times and tomorrow I will fill with hot water and measure the surface temperature with an infra red probe to verify that there are no blocked portions. The head job did not show any defects but just what could be expected for my 90000 miles. Interestingly, I did not have this overheat condition before the head job so I am inclined to think there was still air within the block which allows the pump (new) to cavitate and because steam can be produced in this situation the water pressure had increased due to the expansion rate of the steam (just like a steam engine). When I am happy with the cooling components I will reassemble and try again. No solution yet but the more I think about it, the more I believe it was still in need of further bleeding. You may benefit from removing the spark plugs for examination after a 20 minute drive to check condition. If they all look the same then your head seal is probably not a worry. Mine all looked fine after the rebuild but one was too clean ( steam cleaned) due to a very minor leak across a head gasket prior to the repair.
    So, to summarize: Check the fan by revving while listening under the bonnet. You will hear when it loads up.
    Check that the rad is clear and there are no blockages. (easier out of car).
    Check plugs are all in the same condition.
    Fit a small container (I use a transparent 35mm roll film canister) under the overflow.
    Persevere with the air bleeding process.

    In the meantime rely on a 19 year old classic RR as I do! Less complicated and a darm sight more reliable even with 220000 mile on the original engine.

    Ray
    2000 P38a 4.6 Cosworth / RPi Autobiography LPG
    1988 Classic 3.5 Vogue SE LPG

  7. #5
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    I have had the same problem.

    check waterpump, thermostat and visco first !!!

    You will have to check the pressure from your hoses when engine has cooled down completly. if they are soft then no big problem, if they are still presurised then you have a big problem.

    In my case I had a cracked head. There was a hairline crack between combustion chamber and watercanal.
    The crack only let pressure trough when engine was under heavy load.

    A temporary solution was to drill a 1 mm hole in the top of the expansiontank to release pressure otherwise expect radiator to blow again. The cap on the expansion tank has a pressure rating which is to high for the plastic topped radiator.

    Lets hope for the best!
    DISCOVERY LR3
    RR P38 DSE 97
    TRIUMPH TR6 PI OD
    AUDI A2

  8. #6
    JUNIOR ROVER wills's Avatar
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    thanks for the replies everyone. I went out early this morning and followed the RAVE manual for making sure all the air was out the system.

    Since then it has seemed fine and the temp needle has stayed just under half way. I took it for a long run after making sure the air was out of the system and it seemed fine, I went through town in traffic and took it out on the motorway for a good run and all seemed fine. After taking it for a run both pipes to the radiator were nice and soft and everything seemed ok. There was also no coolant from the overflow pipe in my little film roll pot thingy.

    SO, heres hoping it will be ok, its due for a service on Tuesday anyway so will have the viscous fan and thermostat replaced then.

    Just hoping and praying like mad its nothing else such as a cracked head, if it was that I would of thought it would of shown as I gave it a good run down the motorway this morning.

    Will keep this thread updated with any further developments.

    Thanks
    -Wills
    98 Range Rover 2.5 DSE Auto
    Faultmate MSV
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...kon80/sig4.jpg

  9. #7
    Premium Member
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    Change the expansion tank cap too, as this houses the pressure release valve, they can get blocked or just fail either open or closed. They arent expensive and are in the service guide as to be replaced at a certain age....

    I'm overdue a coolant change but i'm worried about air in the system, rave makes it sound very complicated. How did you find it?
    I have a slight leak from the heater o-ring so have to top up a pint every month or so, i'm guessing its had a complete fluid exchange by now!
    1999 4.6 HSE Blenheim Silver

  10. #8
    JUNIOR ROVER wills's Avatar
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    hmm, well I cant really comment on how I found it as I didnt change the radiator on this ocassion. When the thing blew up I was a long way from home so I had my P38 recovered back to my specialist and asked him to do it for me so when I got back it would be ready for me.

    So, to be honest I cant really comment on how it was changing the coolant, HOWEVER, bleeding the system of air doesnt get any easier (I say that touching wood and everything else in site). You just do it when the engine is cold. You pop the bleed hose off the rad, blow through it to clear any coolant, replace it and then start the vehicle up. If you had been replacing coolant you would be adding it at this point but all I had to do was stand there with my hand on the top hose of the rad waiting for it to get warm while the lid of the expansion tank was off. When it got fairly warm I replaced the cap and took it for its test drive.

    Its seemed fine ever since so as I said, im hoping it was just an airlock but just as a precaution I will replace the viscous fan and thermostat. Might also follow your advice and replace the tank cap as well.

    Tonight I will do as James May would say, and 'give it the beans' down the motorway and see what happens.

    -Wills
    98 Range Rover 2.5 DSE Auto
    Faultmate MSV
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...kon80/sig4.jpg

  11. #9
    JUNIOR ROVER wills's Avatar
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    just a quick update to let everyone know, I again gave it a good drive last night and the temp guage stayed a tad over the 11 posistion. When I gave it a good run down the motorway it climbed to just under the 12 point.

    On the way into work this morning sitting in traffic with it being very warm outside again the temp needle stayed at around 11.

    Soooo, heres to hoping the problem is sorted. As a precaution I am still going to have the thermostat and viscous fan replaced at its service on Tuesday.

    Thanks for all your help guys and gals

    -Wills (fingers very tightly crossed that everything stays working)
    98 Range Rover 2.5 DSE Auto
    Faultmate MSV
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...kon80/sig4.jpg

  12. #10
    JUNIOR ROVER wills's Avatar
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    Bad news, overheated on the way back from my weekly run to Oxford

    This time it went right up to the very end of the white area, luckily I got no red light and it didnt make its way into the red area, had I of kept going im sure it would of. Managed to stop in time in a layby though and spent the next hour waiting for recovery.

    Its now at my specialist awaiting his diagnosis Not sure what might be wrong here, things like head gasket, warped head etc are all going round my mind at the moment

    -Wills
    98 Range Rover 2.5 DSE Auto
    Faultmate MSV
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...kon80/sig4.jpg

  13. #11
    SOLIHULL ROVER
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    Wills, sorry to hear of your troubles. One would certainly think that with new gaskets you would be free and clear. Good luck and thanks to Ray A, Dan and Hans for their observations. Useful info for that day I hope is long in the future.
    2008 Alaska white SC with 128,000 mi. latest diff folly. 2004 Epson green 275k kms now for sale. also 1952 Hough payloader 1959 Nuffield 4DM
    2000 kent green 4.0 SE sold
    2003 GMC 1500 AWD window van 5.3 L love it in the snow & rain-anytime [on mich ltd m&s ll] 200 plus K miles. getting very rusty.

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