Danny's 2004 Range Rover HSE
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Thread: Danny's 2004 Range Rover HSE

  1. #1
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Danny's 2004 Range Rover HSE

    Hey y'all,

    I just purchased a pretty clean 2004 Range Rover HSE. I'll have some pictures up tonight once I get it in my driveway. It has 158,000 miles, a clean title, and it's only had 2 owners, with the first one owning it for almost 12 years. It's a southern truck, originating in Georgia, moving to Tennessee, and then moving to Arizona, all with the original owner. There's absolutely no rust under the car, and the paint appears to be in pretty good shape since this truck has been garaged its whole life. The only signs of sun damage are on the door handles, but that should be an easy fix. The Carfax/Autocheck looks clean too, with no discrepancies or reported accidents. It's silver on the outside (Zambezi Silver according to under the hood) and black/gray inside with the brown wood accents. Pretty much the classic L322 color scheme (in my opinion). The truck is 100% original, with the OEM 7-spoke wheels and matching spare. It's so hard to find an unmolested one that doesn't have chrome and 24" rims, so this was a real gem.

    This Range Rover is supposedly a "Hennessy" edition, however I think that might be just a sticker that was slapped on, since the engine looks bone stock and the interior looks like any other black/gray L322 interior. It has the OEM towing package, rear DVD screens, heated seats front and back, and all sorts of other fun stuff. The driver's seat is a little worn, but that's nothing I can't fix with some leather dye.

    Now for the bad parts— the engine dies shortly after being started. The previous owner suspected it was a fuel supply issue, and after some investigation that does seem to be the case. I did a fuel pressure test using the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, and it barely reached 20 psi at its peak, with the fuel pressure dropping off pretty quickly and hovering in the 10psi range which caused the engine to start dying. Seems like a classic fuel pump issue to me. I ordered a new fuel pump and a new fuel filter from AutohausAZ (they're local to me), so once I pick those up I should be up and running. There are a ton of oil leaks as well, but that's nothing that can't be fixed with some fresh gaskets. I got this truck for a screamin' deal because of these issues, so I don't mind them one bit

    I specifically chose a BMW era Rangie because I'm basically a wizard with the M62tu engines, having rebuilt 4 of them in the past two years. My other two cars are BMW 540i's, which have the exact same engine and transmission as this truck. I have tons of parts for this engine and I have all of the special tools it requires. I love that I can buy cheap BMW parts and throw em in, versus buying expensive Land Rover parts.

    I look forward to contributing here and helping y'all out with your BMW Range Rovers I'm a DIY-til-I-die kind of guy, so everything I do to this Range Rover will have lots of pictures and explanations attached, and maybe even some videos.
    2003 Range Rover HSE - Build Thread | 2000 BMW 540i Touring
    2004 Range Rover HSE (sold)
    M62tu stockholm syndrome

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  3. #2
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Danny's 2004 Range Rover HSE

    Congrats! I am in pretty much the same boat. I got a 2003 two months ago with 135K (zambezi silver with parchment/navy interior) from the original owner. It has been a fun filled DIY summer for me. In the past 60 days I have done the following:

    -Final Stage Resistor (Battery was not holding a charge, had faulty resistor)
    -ABS Module (Was getting HDC, Air Suspension Inactive, ABS, and Brake lights on dash. Found a used one online for $150, swapped it out and fixed the issue).
    -Thermostat (Was getting code, swapped it out with new one and code went away).
    -Front brake upgrade (Brembo Calipers off a 2006 supercharged HSE, $200 a piece online, Britpart cross driller rotors, new pads).
    -Rear brake freshening up (Got new Britpart calipers, pads, and rotors. Prior ones were rusted and sticking. Must have been the salty humid Florida air!).
    -Front Suspension (Upper & Lower Control Arms, Stabilizer Links, Outer Tie Rods, and Ball Joints).
    -Rear Suspension (Upper & Lower Control Arm Bushings, Sway Bar Links, Stabilizer Links, Bilstein Struts, and Arnott Air Shocks).
    -Lock Up Clutch Solenoid, transmission fluid, and new filter (I am getting P0741 code, however the fault came back so it looks like I need to keep trouble shooting).

    Next up is the power steering pump, lines, and reservoir. It has a loud whine and I already flushed the fluid (old fluid in there was red/brown so it was either the red power steering fluid or ATF fluid. However, as you know in any case you need the green CHF as these systems are highly pressurized and the red fluid cannot handle the pressure from what I understand and it created bubbles. It looked like a bottle of coke shaken up, the amount of bubbles that were gushing out when I was flushing it! I can only assume that after it came off warranty in 2008, the local shop mistakenly started putting the red stuff in. So 7 possible years of running that fluid probably damaged the pump internals). After that its valve cover gasket time.

    In terms of fluids, changed oil, flushed coolant (which was green and not blue but that has also been corrected. Make sure you check yours as it should be blue), flushed power steering (and will again once I replace the pump), and changed transmission fluid. So next up is the transfer case and differentials.

    You got lucky with the garaging of it, this was exposed to Florida sun for 13 years so needless to say it will be getting a new paint job and virtually all exterior moldings!

    I would highly recommend you get the All Comms software. Here is the link: http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.ph...kiii-all-comms

    It's worth every penny.
    2003 4.4 HSE

  4. #3
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Danny's 2004 Range Rover HSE

    Haha wow you've been busy! I pretty much did a lot of that work with my 540i Touring when I bought it a few months ago. Did a lot of suspension bits, got new wheels, replaced the FSU, and replaced most of the cooling system. That's my daily driver now, whereas the Rangie will be the project car for the time being.

    I'll check out that software, but I'm pretty sure I can use my BMW diagnostic software with my Range Rover too, since it's essentially a BMW in terms of the electronics. I've read about people having very good luck with INPA/DIS, so I'll give those a shot first. I have INPA, DIS, Progman, WinKFP, NCSExpert, and PA Soft 1.4, so I should be good for a little while.
    2003 Range Rover HSE - Build Thread | 2000 BMW 540i Touring
    2004 Range Rover HSE (sold)
    M62tu stockholm syndrome

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  6. #4
    SOLIHULL ROVER
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    Re: Danny's 2004 Range Rover HSE

    Welcome to this site. Great story!!! Have always hoped I could find a bmw enthusiast who could listen to our engine and tell me what the sounds mean. I recently had a transmission overheat message which came on within a few minutes of driving and after a large search thru countless posts i never found an answer. In desperation (wife wanted to junk it) i pulled the leads off there trans controller in the ebox with it running and then replugged. all hell broke loose on the subsequent test drive, including trans failsafe, and only a couple of gears. When i shut off and restarted, everything cleared and it has been flawless ever since in terms of the tranny operation. The heat sensor in the tranny had tested perfectly, i changed the coolant temp sensor in the lower rad hose and the ebox fan had failed which i replaced. I actually thought i had cooked the controller as the ebox was extremely warm and I swear you could have cooked eggs on the aluminum skin of the tranny controller. i do hope you will continue with this site and assist all of us bmw reprobates as we muddle thru ownership. Btw i am looking at a ford f150 for the farm and i think ford copied the bmw overhead cam mechanicals but did a poor job of it. Surprisingly the blocks are cast iron and some seem to push 500-600 kms without a rebore or rings. same for double rl!
    2008 Alaska white SC with 128,000 mi. latest diff folly. 2004 Epson green 275k kms now for sale. also 1952 Hough payloader 1959 Nuffield 4DM
    2000 kent green 4.0 SE sold
    2003 GMC 1500 AWD window van 5.3 L love it in the snow & rain-anytime [on mich ltd m&s ll] 200 plus K miles. getting very rusty.

  7. #5
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Danny's 2004 Range Rover HSE

    Fun fact, the Ford Mustang GT engine from the mid 2000's was very heavily influenced by the S62 in the E39 M5, since that was a benchmark in DOHC V8 performance engines at the time.

    And yeah, you eventually learn that a good 50% of these ZF 5HP24 transmission issues are electrical in nature. I've seen trans failsafes triggered by engine misfires or low battery voltage, it's pretty silly. If you keep the electrical issues at bay and change the fluid/filter properly you can easily get to 200k on an original transmission. My 2000 540i touring just rolled over 180,000 miles with the original engine and transmission. I did change the fluid a month ago, and I plan to change it again soon to get more of the nasty old fluid out.

    Wait til you guys see me doing a timing chain guide job along with a Vanos rebuild, that's pretty much my specialty. I'm going to be doing that job on a BMW 740il in these coming weeks, should be fun.
    2003 Range Rover HSE - Build Thread | 2000 BMW 540i Touring
    2004 Range Rover HSE (sold)
    M62tu stockholm syndrome

  8. #6
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Danny's 2004 Range Rover HSE

    She's in my driveway now Got her towed home last night; thankfully my go-to towing guy bought a heavy duty trailer so the 5300lb weight wasn't too much of a hassle for him.

    And finally, some pictures:







    She's a little dirty from sitting outside for a while, but that's something I can take care of easily. I should be picking up my new fuel pump and new fuel filter at some point today, hopefully I can get her running tonight.
    2003 Range Rover HSE - Build Thread | 2000 BMW 540i Touring
    2004 Range Rover HSE (sold)
    M62tu stockholm syndrome

  9. #7
    FRESHMAN ROVER millsfowler's Avatar
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    Re: Danny's 2004 Range Rover HSE

    Was just reading through your post and was going to let you know that it's not a Hennessey edition, that's likely the dealership it was sold from here in Atlanta- since you said it was a Georgia car when it was new
    Hope you get it running and get to enjoy it!


    Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

  10. #8
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    Re: Danny's 2004 Range Rover HSE

    Quote Originally Posted by millsfowler View Post
    Was just reading through your post and was going to let you know that it's not a Hennessey edition, that's likely the dealership it was sold from here in Atlanta- since you said it was a Georgia car when it was new
    Hope you get it running and get to enjoy it!
    Haha yep, that sounds about right. Thanks for the tip, now I can just hit that stupid little sticker with some Goo-Gone. I immediately knew it wasn't anything unique when I saw it, since everything about it is bone stock.

    I just picked up the fuel pump and fuel filter from AutohausAZ, so I'll be installing those tonight. Fingers crossed that it fixes the problem!
    2003 Range Rover HSE - Build Thread | 2000 BMW 540i Touring
    2004 Range Rover HSE (sold)
    M62tu stockholm syndrome

  11. #9
    JUNIOR ROVER
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    Re: Danny's 2004 Range Rover HSE

    Looks nice! Welcome to the L322 club!

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
    2006 L322 4.2 SC

  12. #10
    SOLIHULL ROVER
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    Re: Danny's 2004 Range Rover HSE

    I would appreciate an update on the fuel pump job as I am sure ours will need one and it would be nice to have the pump and auxiliary parts handy when needed. Are you changing just the pump or the whole assembly. Roofs look great. The range looks mint also.
    2008 Alaska white SC with 128,000 mi. latest diff folly. 2004 Epson green 275k kms now for sale. also 1952 Hough payloader 1959 Nuffield 4DM
    2000 kent green 4.0 SE sold
    2003 GMC 1500 AWD window van 5.3 L love it in the snow & rain-anytime [on mich ltd m&s ll] 200 plus K miles. getting very rusty.

  13. #11
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    Re: Danny's 2004 Range Rover HSE

    Yes, definitely! Nice, this has been my project but should shift to daily driver in the next 30 days fingers crossed!

    Ok cool, so you should be good. Please confirm which BMW software you are able to successfully mate with the Range. I have a friend with a BMW shop and he did not think their software would work (even though it has the BMW drivetrain). It would be interested to know.

    Pics look great

    Quote Originally Posted by danny540i View Post
    Haha wow you've been busy! I pretty much did a lot of that work with my 540i Touring when I bought it a few months ago. Did a lot of suspension bits, got new wheels, replaced the FSU, and replaced most of the cooling system. That's my daily driver now, whereas the Rangie will be the project car for the time being.

    I'll check out that software, but I'm pretty sure I can use my BMW diagnostic software with my Range Rover too, since it's essentially a BMW in terms of the electronics. I've read about people having very good luck with INPA/DIS, so I'll give those a shot first. I have INPA, DIS, Progman, WinKFP, NCSExpert, and PA Soft 1.4, so I should be good for a little while.
    2003 4.4 HSE

  14. #12
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    Re: Danny's 2004 Range Rover HSE

    Quote Originally Posted by diff View Post
    I would appreciate an update on the fuel pump job as I am sure ours will need one and it would be nice to have the pump and auxiliary parts handy when needed. Are you changing just the pump or the whole assembly. Roofs look great. The range looks mint also.
    I just changed the pump. The rest of the assembly doesn't really go bad, so I didn't see a point to spending $900 on a whole new assembly. The pump was less than $200. More on that below.

    I wouldn't say it's mint, it's a 5-footer at the moment. The headlight corners are loose, there's a few obvious dents and dings, and one of the rear taillights is missing the plastic cover completely. I'll probably get 2006 style tail lights if I end up replacing them, I like the clear turn signal look vs. the amber turn signals. I'll probably end up updating the side markers to clear as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleRL322 View Post
    Yes, definitely! Nice, this has been my project but should shift to daily driver in the next 30 days fingers crossed!

    Ok cool, so you should be good. Please confirm which BMW software you are able to successfully mate with the Range. I have a friend with a BMW shop and he did not think their software would work (even though it has the BMW drivetrain). It would be interested to know.

    Pics look great
    I'll go through my BMW software tonight and see which ones work with the Rangie. I expect INPA to work properly at the very least, though I'll have to trick it into thinking the Rangie is an X5.

    Quote Originally Posted by btmfuturesho View Post
    Looks nice! Welcome to the L322 club!

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
    Thanks! I'm glad there's a good community for these cars, and I look forward to contributing.
    2003 Range Rover HSE - Build Thread | 2000 BMW 540i Touring
    2004 Range Rover HSE (sold)
    M62tu stockholm syndrome

  15. #13
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    Re: Danny's 2004 Range Rover HSE

    Below is my experience with the fuel pump replacement job. I figured I'd share it with you guys since there isn't a huge amount of information regarding this job, at least not with the BMW Range Rovers.

    The two main sources I referenced for this job were this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMWx...LOxVnog0kVSSYr and this thread: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rov...cement.200394/

    Alright, so let's start from the beginning. First, verify that your fuel pump is the problem, and not the fuse/relay for the pump. My pump worked, but the engine kept dying after a short bit. I used a fuel pressure tester that I picked up from Autozone, it came with an adapter that fit the M62tu Schrader valve perfectly. Normally you want the fuel pressure to be above 30psi, but it was barely reaching 20psi and quickly falling to 10psi.

    If you're doing this job preemptively you'll want to depressurize the fuel system before disconnecting any fuel lines. Pull the fuel pump fuse and try to start the engine. It'll quickly die as it uses up the residual fuel in the lines. This is also a useful trick for replacing the fuel filter so that you don't have gas gushing out. After this is done, you can disconnect the battery. It's not really required, but you can never be too safe, especially when dealing with fuel.

    Once you've done that initial prep work, it's time to get access to the fuel pump. Thankfully for you, the BMW Range Rovers don't require dropping the gas tank like some of the older models did. First, fold the rear seats and tumble them forward. Then remove the cargo tray in the rear. This is what it looked like in my Rangie:



    Excuse the poor lighting, I'm a bit of a night owl when it comes to wrenching and my garage doesn't have room for the Rangie yet.

    Now you'll want to peel back the carpet and foam. You'll have to undo the two allen bolts that hold the tire straps, the four Torx bolts that hold the seat attachment rails, the plastic trims around the back seat area, and you'll need to loosen the leather portion of the C-pillar to slip the carpet out from underneath it. This is a bit tricky, so take your time and avoid breaking things. Most of the trim pieces are held in place with clips, so keep that in mind. The carpet will fight you on its way up, especially if it's never been removed before (like in my truck). You'll need a few bungee cords to keep the carpet out of the way. Get creative, but take care to not damage anything.



    Those two black covers are how you'll be accessing the fuel pump. The fuel pump itself is under the passenger side (US) cover. The driver's side cover is just an access port that you may or may not need, depending on how crafty you are with installing and reinstalling the fuel pump assembly. The covers are held on with 10mm nuts, remove those and you'll see the top of the fuel pump assembly. Disconnect the electrical connector from the pump, it's a common BMW-style slide connector where you have to slide a piece outwards to release it. Now the fuel lines are a huge pain to remove, and the video I watched did not help with that. Essentially what you have to do is move the orange/red ring upwards while pulling on the fuel line. It's a little tricky to do with your hands, I found that needle-nose pliers really helped with this.

    Once you have all of the connections removed from the top of the fuel pump you'll have to undo the metal ring that holds it into place. That's pretty easy, just use a flat-bladed screwdriver and a hammer and turn the ring counter-clockwise to loosen it. With the ring removed, you should be able to start pulling the fuel pump assembly out. Don't pull too hard though, as there's another set of connectors you'll need to remove on the fuel pump assembly.



    Using a flat-bladed screwdriver, you have to first undo the little clip on the right side of the connectors, and then you can use the screwdriver to pry the connectors off. Be careful to not lose the connectors in the fuel tank, otherwise you'll need to open the access port on the driver's side and fish around for the connectors (that's what I had to do, I'm sure my skin is very happy about it).

    With that connector removed, you can remove the fuel pump assembly. It's a bit of an awkward shape, so you'll have to turn it a bit to get it to come out. Be careful to not damage the level sender as you're removing the assembly— it's rather fragile. With the fuel pump assembly out, make sure you have a bucket and towels handy, because the fuel pump assembly will have a bunch of gas in it and it will be leaking out everywhere. Flip the assembly upside-down to drain out any remaining gas. In general, it's a good idea to do this job outside, otherwise you'll be stuck huffing gas fumes.

    Once the assembly is free of gas, remove the connector for the level sender and remove the level sender. It slides up and can be removed very easily. I recommend removing it because in the next step you'll have the manhandle the fuel pump assembly quite a bit. Once the sender is removed, you're going to want to crack apart the assembly and separate the lowest portion of it. Once you disconnect the two spade connectors from the pump, you'll have to disconnect the hose going to it. If your pump is stock like mine was, you'll have the annoying BMW factory style hose clamp. I clipped that off with some wire cutters and replaced it with a regular small hose clamp. Once the fuel pump is loose from the rest of the assembly, you'll have to pull it out of its vibration dampener assembly. Be patient and you'll get it out without breaking anything. Here's how the assembly looks in an exploded view:



    Here is the old pump (left) versus the new pump (right).



    The new pump I got is from Delphi. Looks exactly the same aside from the slight color difference. My old pump had something rattling inside it when I picked it up, so it definitely wasn't in good shape.

    Assembly is pretty much the reverse of the disassembly. Just take your time and make sure everything is back together properly. One tip I learned when putting the fuel pump assembly into the tank is to remove the rubber seal around it and put it on the receiving end on the tank itself. This will make seating the fuel pump assembly much easier, whereas it's just about impossible if you leave the seal on the fuel pump assembly. The fuel pump assembly is spring loaded, so it will fight you a little as you try to get it seated and install the metal ring that holds it in.

    After everything was cleaned up and reconnected, I let the pump prime by setting the key to the on position a few times. Once that was done, I started the engine. It rattled a little from not being started in a while, but it quieted down quickly and ran happily. Success!

    I was extremely pleased with this outcome, since the problem was exactly what I had predicted. I bought the Range Rover as a non-runner, so I got a smoking good deal on it— I'm talking beat up old Corolla pricing here. Once I let the Range Rover run for a little, I took it on a little test drive around my neighborhood. It drove great, shifted great, the suspension worked properly, and the AC was ice cold. There were no check engine lights and the coolant temperature was perfect too. I really found a gem here.



    No warning lights on a 158,000 mile Range Rover, this must have been taken care of pretty well by the original owner. I did notice a little smoke from the hood as the engine got to temperature, but I quickly diagnosed it as leaking valve cover gaskets + leaking timing cover gaskets. I'll be replacing all those gaskets and doing a general tuneup in the very near future, and of course I'll write about it all in great detail.

    If you got this far without falling asleep, congratulations! Thanks for reading.
    2003 Range Rover HSE - Build Thread | 2000 BMW 540i Touring
    2004 Range Rover HSE (sold)
    M62tu stockholm syndrome

  16. #14
    LEGACY VENDOR
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    Re: Danny's 2004 Range Rover HSE

    Quote Originally Posted by danny540i View Post
    I'll go through my BMW software tonight and see which ones work with the Rangie. I expect INPA to work properly at the very least, though I'll have to trick it into thinking the Rangie is an X5.
    PA Soft 1.4 works seamlessly with the BMW version L322's. I use it all the time.

    INPA can very awkward to use and I have had very limited success connecting the the L322.
    P38 2002 4.6 Vogue
    L322 2011 4.4 TDV8. 2011 5.0 SC
    L320 2010 5.0 SC
    L319 2010 5.0 V8
    L538 2012 2.2.
    CAV GT40

  17. #15
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: Danny's 2004 Range Rover HSE

    Quote Originally Posted by ghur View Post
    PA Soft 1.4 works seamlessly with the BMW version L322's. I use it all the time.

    INPA can very awkward to use and I have had very limited success connecting the the L322.
    Oh, awesome! I've always preferred PA Soft 1.4 to the other software I have, so being able to use that is sweet.

    In other news, I think I'm going to be replacing my radiator and my transmission heat exchanger. I've done a bunch of reading and referenced a lot of older threads here, and it seems like that's the weak point of these transmissions (aside from bad fluid). It's super hot here in Arizona, so that doesn't help either. My shifts become delayed to around 4k RPM in local stop and go traffic, and sometimes the transmission starts downshifting too. I read that this is the transmission trying to protect itself from overheating by forcing the engine to run harder and cool it more. When driving on the highway the symptoms disappear, so it's definitely a cooling issue. Thankfully all of these parts are pretty cheap.
    2003 Range Rover HSE - Build Thread | 2000 BMW 540i Touring
    2004 Range Rover HSE (sold)
    M62tu stockholm syndrome

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