Range Rover MSD Ignition Installation
(Classic)
Christopher
Schaeffer
kindly supplied the information and pictures on this page about
upgrading his Classic to an MSD ignition system. His is a 1990 model
which he has upgraded to a 4.2 litre engine, but the information should
be applicable to all Classics. Christian reports:
"Not long ago, my ignition module failed.
It was the distributor mounted older style. Instead of replacing it, I
looked for
a better choice. I use my truck to drive everywhere, so knowing the MSD
ignition is readily available, compared to Rovers parts, made it look
like a good fit. And it works outstanding. The engine runs
smoother, and lost
a hesitation it had when you hit the throttle. Also, it will run on low
voltage, they say 5, but it did buy me some time when the alternator
failed. The purpose of this writing is to offer some tips
that I
learned doing this. Hopefully it will save some time for others. So,
let’s begin………..

The MSD needs
a signal to know when to fire. This picture
(above) was taken after I buttoned everything up. Going to the module,
are 2
wires. These are the same 2 wires
the MSD will use for its firing signal. So, if you have the updated
relocated ignition amplifier module,
this work was already done for you. If not, like me,you have to take it
part
for access. I simply soldered on a 2 terminal trailer plug so I can
disconnect
it for service. MSD has a positive and a negative input. The signal
coming from
the distributor didn’t have a clear positive and negative. I figured I
had a
50/50 chance of getting it right, and I did. My first guess worked
great. And, had I been wrong, I don’t think it
would have hurt
anything, it just wouldn’t have run. Again, sorry I didn’t get the
color of the
wires. Try it and see what happens.

The picture above shows where I mounted
the Blaster
Coil.
This
was an easy spot. 3 Self Tapping screws worked great on the Aluminum AC
bracket.
The coil wire on a Rover has a female
connection, and the
Blaster has a male. MSD does make a coil wire kit, but it was a little
tough to
crimp the ends with any confidence.
The coil wire that
worked was a $4.00 wire
I
got from AutoZone.
After checking it with a scope, and squirting it with water, it works
great! I
ran the coil power in the same loom as for the power from the battery
for the
MSD.
Here (photo above) is the
MSD unit mounted, along with the tach
adapter, which is needed to let the 14 CUX fuel injection know the
engine is
cranking. The MSD does have a lead for the tach signal,
but
it isn’t
strong enough. So, you need the adapter. On the negative of
the factory coil, there are 2
wires. One
going to the module and one going to the ECM. Connect
the one to the ECM to the output of
the Tach Adapter, following the included directions from MSD. MSD
says that the 8910 adapter is the one needed.
But, for
me, the 8920 worked better. The ECM needs to see 50 RPM at cranking to
turn on
the injectors. And this does it nicely.
Also, I used a trailer harness as a quick release
plug. So,
if I have to replace it in the field, this will make life easier.
The MSD needs a switched battery input; I used the
positive
from the factory coil, and it worked fine.

I made all the connections
and it started but ran
badly.
Stalling at idle, stumbling, etc. I was really scratching my head on
this one.
After a weekend of trying ideas, I disconnected the field for the
alternator;
the car smoothed up and ran great. I checked the output at
the alternator with a
scope and
found a very dirty signal that looked very similar to an ignition
pattern.
Turns out Rover runs the alternator to battery cable right under the
spark plug
wires. The extra power the MSD generated created enough interference to
dirty
the output of the alternator. The fix was some bulk 4 gauge
wire from AutoZone
and 2 crimp
on ends. The new power wire is the big thick copper one running along
the firewall in the picture above (pre
loom).
The difference was night and day. All kinds of
quirks went
away. This power cable likely was the cause of lots of gremlins even
before
installing a MSD. I connected one end to the output of the
alternator and the
other to a tap point in the firewall, as shown in the picture
below. This is
where
the factory put theirs, and it works fine. I don’t have all kinds of
terminals
hanging off the battery.

And there it is! For less
then the cost of a Rover
module, I
have better functioning, field serviceable ignition system.
Please
be advised that this was meant as a
supplement to the
MSD directions that come with the unit. This is in NO WAY carved in
stone, and
I cannot be responsible for what happens to your car.
This
is simply what worked for me, and hopefully
for others.
Please feel free to
email me with
questions."