Upgrading to an "Air Aid" Air Filter, P38
Introduction
Parts Required
Making an New Airbox
Making the Components Fit
Modifying the Outside Air Intake
More Information
Introduction
Andrew Parker, one
if the pioneering 4.0/4,6 owners (see
his other RR upgrades including his extremely professional air
suspension lift) decided to upgrade his air intake filter to one of
the
aftermarket versions to enhance air flow (and therefore horsepower)
while maintaining maximum filtering performance. After researching the
available options, Andrew chose the AIRAID series of air
filters, designed to boost engine horsepower by about 5%. (Their site has dyno figures for
various filter and engine combinations).
Parts Needed
Some 3003
.050 thick aluminum sheet
metal.
Some 7075 Alloy
material as well.
One Air Aid
800-109 Air Filter.
Steel 1/8" pop rivets and some aluminum angel 1x1x1/8
Molding for door edge to stop door dings.
Making a New
Airbox
Remove the OEM air box and set it
aside for cutting. It will be replaced by a new
airbox consisting primarily of an aluminum
panel closing off the forward left corner of the engine compartment.
The new airbox draws air from under the headlamps (see below).
The airbox panel's form is figured using card
stock. In order not to stretch the rubber coupler from the Mass
Airflow Sensor (MAS)
to the plenum, the panel has to be jogged back toward the plenum so the
MAS
ends up in the same location as before. The sheet metal is
mounted under
the EAS box's forward screws and onto the two studs that fix the
head lamp into the body. The air temp sensor wires have to be
lengthened by six inches or so.
|
|
|
|
The new airbox cut from
aluminum, with the Air Aid filter in place. The design excludes hot
engine compartment air from the intake, and also provides cool air for
the EAS. |
Position of airbox relative to
EAS box. |
Making the
Components Fit
To provide a connection for
the MAS tube to the new airbox, cut the old air filter box's tube from
the
lid as close to the wall of the box as you can with a hack saw. Cut a
corresponding hole in the new panel with a jig saw and lots
of WD-40 as the 3003 is gummy and soft. Use your work bench, some
angle iron and some C-clamps for a break to bend it up. 3003 is
very soft and easy to bend but only bend it once.
Fab a bracket for the EAS
air
dryer. I bridged from the power steering reservoir mount to the
new panel using
some 7075 and a bit of the aluminum angle (see photo below left).
|
|
|
|
Brackets for air dryer. Note
bracket to hold the Air Aid filter in place, also visible in the two
photos above. |
Tube from old airbox glued to
the new airbox panel with MAS tube conneccted. |
The AirAid filter is
a snug slip fit
on the 3.375" OD of the air box lid's tube. The tube is fixed
into the wall of the aluminum panel with a snug fitting hole and "Right
Stuff" gasket maker. You can run a bead inside the panel and
outside. The filter gets an offset from center hole drilled
into the end for the temp sensor. I used a washer, some Loctite
242 and a nut to secure it in the filter wall's urethane end.
Fabricate brackets to draw the filter onto the tube and keep it
there. I threaded some M6 machine screws into two pieces of the
angle aluminum and got some wing nuts to secure a 7075 alloy strip
across the filter's end. This stuff is very stiff compared with
the 3003aluminum alloy. So it holds its form and will keep the
filter in place.
Modifying the Outside Air Intake
For maximizing horsepower, it is vital that fresh, cold outside air
rather than the warm or hot air from the engine compartment be drawn in
to the engine's air intake. The new filter box effectively screens off
the hot air from inside the engine compartment, and to draw in plenty
of cold outside air Andrew added slots under headlamp
using a 2-1/8" hole saw and a hacksaw blade with vise grip. He
lined the
slots with steel wire galvanized mesh and spray paint
inside the holes semi-flat black paint prior to installing with "monkey
snot". Finished installation looks very professional!
|
|
More
Information
Airbox Upgrade for 4.0/4.6 Range Rovers using LPG
Snorkel Installation
on 4.0/4.6 Range Rover
Return to Upgrades
Return to RangeRovers.net
If you have corrections, comments or suggestions, email us.
Page revised February 1, 2012