Key/Remote Problems and
Solutions (4.0/4.6/p38)
Functions of the
Key/Remote
Battery Low
Buttons Worn Out
Unsolicited Lockng & Unlocking by
Remote
Emergency Key Access (when remote is lost or broken)
Functions of the Key/Remote
Aside from the normal functions of remote locking, the Range Rover
4.0/4.6 remote key controls the arming of the alarm system and the
immobilization and remobilization of the Engine Control Module (ECM).
When you put the key in the ignition, the "Passive Immobilization Coil"
(Component # Z270 -- an inductive coil surrounding the ignition switch)
is energized, triggering the remote to transmit a code to the BeCM
which then remobilizes the ECM and allows cranking and engine operation
to be enabled. This has the
following implications:
1. Buying cheap
key/remotes on eBay is unlikely to be successful, as you cannot program
the remote with the unique code yourself.
2. When you get the "Remote Battery Low" signal on the message display,
take heed and renew the battery, because if it dies entirely it may not
be able to transsmit the code to the ECU so you will not be able to
start the vehicle.
Battery Low
When the battery in the remote runs low, you
will get a message on the dash warning you of the situation. Pay
heed to it because as mentioned above, you won't be able to start the
car if the key
battery is dead.
Kevin
Kelly reports getting the "REMOTE
BATTERY LOW" warning on the dash of his 1998 Range Rover. Ron Beckett informed him
that he needed not one but TWO round CR 2025 batteries (the batteries
are a little smaller than a nickel). The batteries are a common size
and are available at most drug stores, pharmacies and camera shops (I
bought mine at Walgreens). Kevin paid $2.99 for each battery (he has
heard that the dealers charge over $10 for each battery).
Kevin reports: "It took less than five minutes to change the
batteries. To get the old batteries out use a coin (a nickel works
best) to turn the round battery holder counter about 45 degrees until
the two arrows line up. The holder is a tight fit and I needed to use a
very small thin screwdriver to pry it up. When I lifted the battery
holder out I saw that it had an O-ring to help seal things up". (See photo at top of this page kindly
supplied by Kevin).
"The old batteries will pop right out of the battery holder and the
new ones will pop right in. After you make sure the O-ring is in place
you can set the battery holder back on the remote (line up the arrows)
and turn it clockwise to lock it back on."
After changing the
battery you may need to resynchronize the key -- if so just stick
it in the lock and lock/unlock the door, then press the remote
controls.
Buttons Worn Out
The buttons on the remote/ignition key get
worn out quickly, but can easily be replaced by just prying off and
replacing the triangular plastic button insert on top of the key. (see
photos below). This
is available as a separate part, rubber pad RCR4KEY3.
The cheapest source I have seen is The Rover
Connection who sell it for $5.
Ron
Beckett reports that Land Rover sell this as a spare part
YWC000300 for about A$4 (US$3, GBP1.50) each - Don't buy them off eBay
from the chap who sells them (with 2 batteries) for GBP15.
Jon Turner reports: "Changing the button
cover is ridiculously easy. Mine was already cracked, so I just
stuck a little screwdriver into the crack and levered the cover
off. The replacement one just press-fits right into place.
It is literally 30 seconds to do the swap!"
|
|
| Ron Beckett kindly supplied
this illustration of the button cover removal process, showing a new
button cover ready to be pressed on. |
Unsolicited Locking and Unlocking
by Remote
I
have found that the remote can sometimes easily be trigered in my
pocket just by touching or bumping it. TSBartel reports a similar
issue: "My 2000 Range Rover 4.0 had a tendency to repeatedly lock and
unlock
the doors while driving and occasionally while parked. This problem has
happened twice since I've owned the car. The service personnel
swear
the issue is not the key fobs, but each time I've replaced the
batteries and button keys (both very inexpensive) the problem has
stopped within a couple of days and stayed corrected for a couple of
years. Try this before going on to other, more expensive approaches.
The batteries and rubber buttons should be replaced every few (3?)
years anyway. Change the batteries and buttons at the dealership, you
may need to reset the code on the fob - which is quite
simple."
Emergency Key Access (Disarming Alarm &
Starting Vehicle when Remote is Lost or Fails)
If you lock the vehicle with the remote handset and then you lose the
remote or it fails, there is a procedure for getting back into the
vehicle and disarming the alarm. According to the "Electrical" section
of the workshop manual (not the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual --
which does not mention this), under BeCM operation, Emergency
Key Access or "EKA” can be used in such a case. You still need the key
part of the remote, though. The EKA process uses a series of locks and
unlocks with the key in the
driver’s door lock cylinder. For full details of this procedure, see
the EKA section of the Alarm Operation &
Diagnosis Page.