Access Under Dash/Fascia Mark III/L322
Introduction
Tools Needed
Center Console
Closing Panel
Under-Dash Closing
Panel (Drivers Side)
Under-Dash Closing Panel (Passenger Side)
More Information
Photo: View of under-dash area with closing panels removed
Access behind the dash is required for a number of repair and
upgrade operations. The first time I had to get in there on my L322/LM
was to instal a trailer brake controller for towing our travel trailer.
(See the page on Outfitting
the RR III for Towing). Another example is repair of the notorious
steering column tilt mechanism
and the accompanying telescoping
mechanism. While I was doing the brake controler job I took more of
the
dash apart than was necessary wo I could find out how it is put
together, and share the information with other owners.
Torx Screwdriver(s)
Phillips screwdriver
Before you can remove the lower dash closing panel on either the driver
or passenger side, it is necessary to remove the corresponding vertical
panel that seals off the transmission tunnel in the footwell.
Officially called the "center console closing panel", this is the one
that contains the vertical wood trim on the left or right side of the
heater controls. Removing this panel is quite easy, and is the same for
left or right sides (right side described here).
Photo at right shows the right hand
panel in place, with the glove compartment above it at upper right.
Arrows and dots show positions of fixings (see below).
First, unscrew the single Phillips screw attaching the forward area of
the panel to the fascia support structure in the footwell (right hand
arrow in picture). Now,
the panel is only held on by plastic clips. To be sure you don't break
them while removing the panel, start by pulling the lower rear corner
of the panel in the outboard direction. This will pull out the the two
plastic studs oriented in the left-right direction (positioned roughly
under the white dots in the photo at right). At the top of the
panel is another built-in peg in the fore and aft direction (roughly
where the left hand arrow is in the picture). This is
disengaged by pulling the panel rearwards and slightly downwards after
disengaging the first two clips.
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Removing the panel after
unscrewing the torx head fastener. Forst pull the bottom out, then pull
the whole panel rearward. |
Inside of right hand console
finisher panel after removal. The panel is lying in the footwell with
its bottom edge (at top of photo) against the center console, and its
top edge closest to the camera. Bottom left arrow in photo points to
fore-and-aft peg at top of panel, other two left arrows to the studs.
Right hand arrow points to the torx screw fixing at the front end of
the panel. |
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With the center console trim panel
removed, you can now get the panel above the footwell out, giving you
some access to the area behind the lower dash. This sis simply called
the
"closing panel" in the shop manual. Its means of attachment varies
slightly between driver and passenger sides. On the driver's side it is
attached by four torx head screws and one trim stud. The latter is a
cheesy plastic stud into which a plastic screw is inserted -- this
attaches the panel to the firewall.
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Underdash panel fastenings |
Above: Underdash closing panel
lowered and multiplugs disconnected |
When the panel is detached from its
fastenings and lowered into the footwell, you have to disconnect the
multiplug from the footwell light, and three multiplugs from the
interior temperature sensor block in order to be able to remove the
panel completely. For the light, a straight pull on the connector gets
it out without any fancy catches. The other connectors have little wing
tabs that have to pre pressed inwards to disengage the connector while
it is being pulled out.
Under-Dash Closing Panel --
Passenger's Side
On the passenger's side the underdash closing panel is held on by four
cheesy plastic Phillips head screws that screw into expandable plastic
studs (see photos below) When they get a
bit worn from repeated dismantling (as is inevitable on Land Rovers due
to the need for frequent repairs),
you might have to put tension on them by pulling down on the panel
while iunscrewing them, otherwise they will just turn and not come out.
When replacing the panel, getting the plastic studs to go back into
their
holes can be tricky because they get deformed. However, you can
simply squeeze the two halves of a
defective stud together to make it fit through its intended hole. The
photos below illustrate the complete panel removal procedure.
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Above: Removing fasteners
from passenger side underdash panel |
Above: Panel removed to
access underdash area |
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More Information
Lower Fascia ends and "A" Pillar Access page
Trailer brake controller wiring
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Page revised February 2, 2012