Fuel Pump Access, Replacement and Rebuild ing

Like the Classic, the Range Rover 4.0/4.6 has its fuel pump mounted inside the tank, through a hole in its top. The pump is supposedly designed to last the life of the vehicle, but is still powered by a conventional electric motor whose brushes and bearings will eventually wear out. After questioning various dealer mechanics, I concluded that mine was overdue for replacement at 130,000 miles.

The fuel pump assembly (photo at right) is designed to withstand severe off road conditions, accounting for its greater cost compared with pumps for lesser vehicles. The actual pump motor is only a small part of the whole, and is mounted within the white cylindrical plastic enclosure at the bottom of the assembly. This enclosure is mounted on a special spring loaded frame which holds it on the bottom of the tank and keeps it operating even if the tank is deformed several inches by hitting rocks and other terrain obstacles. The unit also houses the fuel gauge sender. This allows the entire gubbins to be mounted through a single orifice in the top of the plastic molded tank.

Bruce Powell diagnosed his failed pump on his 4.0SE when he started the car to only have it run for a few seconds then die and not restart. He isolated the problem by pressing the valve on the fuel rail to discover no fuel pressure.

Possible failure modes are most likely to be due to simple old age, and include the following:

Relay, Fuse or Inertia Switch Failure: Before assuming the fuel pump is defunct, it might be worth checking to make sure power is getting to it. If not, the fuse, relay or inertia switch (which shuts off the fuel pump in case of a collision) is probably to blame.

Brush or Bearing Wear: The natural life of fuel pumps is generally thought to be somewhere around 100,000 miles, at which point the carbon brushes wear down to nothing. Similarly, the bearings on submersible fuel pumps are usually made of nylon and eventually wear out since the pump operates continuously whenever the engine is running.

The 4.0/4.6 fuel tank is mounted further forward than in the Classic, under the right rear passenger seat, forward of the rear axle. Also unlike later Classic Range Rovers, the 4.0/4.6 has no built-in hatch for accessing the pump, which is mounted through the top of the tank. The officially sanctioned method of accessing the fuel pump involves first removing the tank for access.

After disconneting the battery the fuel system should be depressurized, which can be done by carefully disconnecting the fuel filter union, holding a rag around it to catch excess fuel. Then, the tank should be drained before removal. On the 4.0/4.6 there is no convenient drain plug in the tank so you have to remove the filler neck and drain it through the filler stub. (Note: if the tank is more than 3/4 full you have to reduce it to this level before removing the filler neck). The fuel lines can then be disconnected. The tank is then supported on a jack while the 5 fasteners that attach it to the body of the vehicle are removed. The tank can then be lowered about 6 inches to disconnect the electrical multiplug before lowering the tank to the floor.

The pump and sender assembly is mounted through the aperture in the top of the tank near the rear end, and lifts out vertically. The complete official procedure to replace a fuel pump takes about 2.5 hours of labor if done by a dealer repair shop, and probably more if performed by a shop that has not done it before.

Later Classic Range Rovers had a fuel pump access hatch cut into the load space floor (see photo below), obviating the need to remove the tank when replacing the pump. Enterprising readers have made their own hatches in earlier models not having this feature (see "Fuel Pump Access Hatch"), and it seems to me that this should also be possible on the 4.0/4.6 models. On these models, the fuel pump is mounted near the rear of the top of the tank, and is positioned just under the cushion of the right hand rear seat.

In 2007, Jack Tuttle pioneered the actual implementation of such an access hatch when replacing the fuel pump on his 1998 4.6. He has kindly shared his photos of the operation (see below), and reports: "I cut the access hole under the back seat to access the pump. I only cut it on 3 sides and just bent the flap up to access the pump. Then when I was finished I just bent it back down, used some rust resistant paint on the edges, sealed it up with some silicone and duct tape. Then folded the padding and carpet back into place. It worked!" Photos of Jack's method appear below.

Note that cutting such a hatch with the tank still in place needs to be done carefully to avoid puncturing the tank or one of the hoses. Ideally, it might be a good idea to do it with the tank removed so that next time the pump fails you would not have to take the tank out.

If anyone else can supply more details on this operation -- eg measurements of the exact location to cut out -- please take pictures and email me a description so we can post it here to share with other RR owners.

Be sure to follow the instructions and precautions in the shop manual when removing the pump. A special tool is sold by Rover for removing the large (6" diameter) plastic ring cover cap of the fuel pump. However, as for the Classic, a large pair of adjustable pliers or even hammering a screwdriver placed against the ribbing on the ring should handle the job. Even better, get an assistant to add similar force from another hammer and screwdriver at 180 degrees. See photo at photo at top of page for details of the complete assembly you are removing.

If you are replacing the complete pump/sender assembly with the genuine part or an aftermarket equivalent, no dismantling is required and the new unit can be simply inserted straight into the tank. You should replace the large specially shaped rubber ring washer (about $12) that goes around the top of the pump to seal the opening in the top of the tank, and the connector donuts for the fuel hoses. (These parts should be replaced even if you are doing one of the "unofficial" fixes below).

It should be pointed out that one advantage of the more expensive approach of replacing the whole unit as officially recommended is that all the smaller hoses, valves and connectors inside the assembly are thereby renewed, whereas the lower cost operations described below leave these and other worn or perished parts in place -- in some cases after stretching them to get them off the old pump motor and on to the new one.

If you are replacing the pump mechanism with a low cost generic unit, or rebuilding the old one, the pump container and sender assembly is re-used and only the pump itself is replaced or rebuilt. In order to accomplish this the in-tank assembly must be dismantled.

When you remove the original fuel pump/sender assembly from the tank, you will notice the fuel gauge sender float attached to a steel wire extending out from the pump body (see picture at top of page). Care is needed in handling and dismantling the unit so as not to bend or break this part of the assembly. The pump itself is mounted in a light colored plastic cylinder at the base of the assembly. The body of this cylinder is held in place by four plastic tabs which are easily pushed inwards to detach the cylinder. You can then carefully maneuver the cylinder aside so the pump itself is exposed. The cylinder will still be attached to the main body of the pump assembly by the small black flexible tube that connects the main pump outlet to a non-return valve on the intake.

Once the electrical pump itself is exposed, you will see it looks like a 1 1/2" (4 cm) diameter aluminium tube about 4 inches (10 cm) long with a nylon intake filter bag hanging from its bottom. The two connections to the DC motor are mounted on the plastic end piece and bearing assembly at the top. These can be simply pulled off. Note that one is red, and one is black. One wire terminal is clearly marked + on the pump body, so you will have no trouble installing it correctly once you reassemble.

Also at the top of the pump motor is the high pressure outlet tube with a short neoprene hose attached. The pump and hose are held in place by a metal flange through which this short hose passes. The flange is attached to the main assembly by two Phillips screws. When these are removed, and the neoprene hose is gently disconnected, you can drop the pump/motor unit free from the main assembly.

Evan Amaya reports finding a generic equivalent -- the Airtex E3270 -- which worked perfectly for him and only cost him $100 at a local auto parts store. Like the generic replacements for the Classic, this is the pump and motor only, and has to be installed in the original mounting assembly. (See additional photos on the fuel pump access and replacement page). This pump was used on a number of GM cars. Jeffrey Freeland confirmed that this E3270 part number works perfectly in his 1998 4.6 Range Rover. I have found this pump at partsamerica.com for $96.99, and the same thing in the "Master" brand for only $74.99 (search for "E3270" on the partsamerica site).

To make it even easier to find these generic replacements, below are listed the vehicle applications that also use this pump. If you have done this operation on your 4.0/4.6, please email me so we can share the details with other owners.

**Applications That Use This Part**
Part Number	Make	Model	Year	Application
E3270	BUICK	Roadmaster	96-94	V-8 350 (5.7L) (P)
E3270	CADILLAC	Commercial Chassis	96-94	V-8 350 (5.7L) (P)
E3270	CADILLAC	Fleetwood	96-94	V-8 350 (5.7L) (P)
E3270	CHEVROLET	Caprice	96-94	V-8 350 (5.7L) (P)
E3270	CHEVROLET	Impala, Impala SS	96-94	V-8 350 (5.7L) (P) (Impala SS)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	Astro Van	96-95	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W) (Exc. Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Gulf States Export Models)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	Astro Van	94-92	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	C10, 20, 30; C1500, 2500, 3500 Pickup - 2 Wheel Dr	1996	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	C10, 20, 30; C1500, 2500, 3500 Pickup - 2 Wheel Dr	97-96	V-8 305 (5.0L) (M)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	C10, 20, 30; C1500, 2500, 3500 Pickup - 2 Wheel Dr	97-96	V-8 350 (5.7L) (R)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	C10, 20, 30; C1500, 2500, 3500 Pickup - 2 Wheel Dr	97-96	V-8 454 (7.4L) (J)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	K10, 20, 30; K1500, 2500, 3500 Pickup - 4 Wheel Dr	1996	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	K10, 20, 30; K1500, 2500, 3500 Pickup - 4 Wheel Dr	97-96	V-8 305 (5.0L) (M)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	K10, 20, 30; K1500, 2500, 3500 Pickup - 4 Wheel Dr	97-96	V-8 350 (5.7L) (R)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	K10, 20, 30; K1500, 2500, 3500 Pickup - 4 Wheel Dr	97-96	V-8 454 (7.4L) (J)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	Medium & Heavy Duty 40-90 Series	2000-99	V-8 454 (7.4L) (B, D) C6, 7 Kodiak Series (w/o Robust Fuel System Sender)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	P10, 20, 30, 1500, 2500, 3500 Vans	97-96	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	P10, 20, 30, 1500, 2500, 3500 Vans	97-96	V-8 350 (5.7L) (R) (Exc. School Bus)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	P10, 20, 30, 1500, 2500, 3500 Vans	97-96	V-8 454 (7.4L) (J)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	S-10 Blazer	1995	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W) (2 Door, Exc. Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Gulf States Export Models)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	S-10 Blazer	1995	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W) (4 Door, Exc. Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Gulf States Export Models)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	S-10 Blazer	94-92	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	S-10 Pickup	95-92	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	Suburban - (C & R Series are 2 Wheel Drive, K & V	97-96	V-8 350 (5.7L) (R)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	Suburban - (C & R Series are 2 Wheel Drive, K & V	97-96	V-8 454 (7.4L) (J)
E3270	CHEVROLET TRUCK	Tahoe	97-96	V-8 350 (5.7L) (R) (2 Door)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	C15, 25, 35, C1500, 2500, 3500, 1000, 1500, 2500 P	1996	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	C15, 25, 35, C1500, 2500, 3500, 1000, 1500, 2500 P	97-96	V-8 305 (5.0L) (M)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	C15, 25, 35, C1500, 2500, 3500, 1000, 1500, 2500 P	97-96	V-8 350 (5.7L) (R)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	C15, 25, 35, C1500, 2500, 3500, 1000, 1500, 2500 P	97-96	V-8 454 (7.4L) (J)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	K15, 25, 35, K1000, 1500, 2500, 3500 Pickup - 4 Wh	1996	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	K15, 25, 35, K1000, 1500, 2500, 3500 Pickup - 4 Wh	97-96	V-8 305 (5.0L) (M)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	K15, 25, 35, K1000, 1500, 2500, 3500 Pickup - 4 Wh	97-96	V-8 350 (5.7L) (R)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	K15, 25, 35, K1000, 1500, 2500, 3500 Pickup - 4 Wh	97-96	V-8 454 (7.4L) (J)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	Medium & Heavy Duty 40-90 Series	2000-99	V-8 454 (7.4L) (B, D) C6, 7 Topkick Series (w/o Robust Fuel System Sender)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	P15, 25, 35, 1000, 1500, 2500, 3500 Forward Contro	97-96	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	P15, 25, 35, 1000, 1500, 2500, 3500 Forward Contro	97-96	V-8 350 (5.7L) (R) (Exc. School Bus)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	P15, 25, 35, 1000, 1500, 2500, 3500 Forward Contro	97-96	V-8 454 (7.4L) (J)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	S-15 Jimmy, Jimmy Envoy	1995	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W) (2 Door, Exc. Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Gulf States Export Models)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	S-15 Jimmy, Jimmy Envoy	1995	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W) (4 Door, Exc. Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Gulf States Export Models)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	S-15 Jimmy, Jimmy Envoy	94-92	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	S-15 Sonoma Pickup	95-92	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	S-15 Syclone	92-91	V-6 262 (4.3L) (Z)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	S-15 Typhoon	93-92	V-6 262 (4.3L) (Z)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	Safari Van	96-95	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W) (Exc. Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Gulf States Export Models)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	Safari Van	94-92	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	Suburban - (C & R Series are 2 Wheel Drive, K & V	97-96	V-8 350 (5.7L) (R) (GVW 6400 Lbs.)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	Suburban - (C & R Series are 2 Wheel Drive, K & V	97-96	V-8 350 (5.7L) (R) (GVW 7200 Lbs.)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	Suburban - (C & R Series are 2 Wheel Drive, K & V	97-96	V-8 454 (7.4L) (J)
E3270	GMC TRUCK	Yukon, Yukon Denali	97-96	V-8 350 (5.7L) (R) (2 Door)
E3270	OLDSMOBILE	Bravada	94-92	V-6 262 (4.3L) (W) (CPI)
E3270	PONTIAC	Firebird, Trans-Am	1989	V-6 231 (3.8L) (7) (20th Anniversary

Reinstall of the the fuel pump assembly into the tank is the reverse of the removal operation. Make sure you engage the plastic locating collars at the bottom of the pump with the corresponding locators in the bottom of the cylindrical housing to prevent the lower end of the pump from flapping around. You should also replace the large specially shaped rubber ring washer (about $12) that goes around the top of the pump to seal the opening in the top of the tank.

An almost "zero buck" alternative to replacement is rebuilding the pump is replacing the brushes on the motor -- the most likely culprit for a cessation of operations by the pump. For the 4.0/4.6 this operation is no different than for the Classic; it is fully described under "Fuel Pump Rebuild" on the Classic fuel pump page. Note, however, that this rebuild process does not address the other main wear items on the pump, namely the bearings. Since these are usually nylon and the pump runs continuously, they will indeed wear out sooner or later. Replacing the brushes alone may mean another fuel pump problem still awaits you when the bearings fail somewhere down the road, so I am inclined to advise replacing at least the generic full motor/pump unit unless you are really trying to economize.


Fuel pump access plate in load space (late model Classics).	With rear seat tilted forward, tow strap indicates approximate position for potential fuel pump access hatch in the 4.0/4.6.


Above: Bending the cutout hatch upwrds for access. Beow: Hatch closed and taped up.	Above: The pump is now visible and accessible for removal. Below: Carpet replaced over hatch; cutout in carpet is visible.


Lower part of assembly showing top of pump/motor unit embedded in the cylindrical container. One of four plastic locking tabs is visible closest to the camera.	Cylindrical fuel pump container detached from main assembly to expose pump/motor unit with nylon intake filter bag at bottom. Spring - loaded mechanism on right hand leg of assembly is clearly visible in this view.


View of lower end of fuel pump assembly with cylinder detached, showing pump/motor with black nylon intake filter at bottom. Note black plastic locating lugs on either side of the intake filter which mate with matching detents in the bottom of the cylindrical enclosure to help hold the pump motor in place.	Close-up showing flange with phillips screws holding pump motor by its output tube. Red ribbed hose at left is fuel return. Electrical connections are at top of pump motor.