Range Rover
P38A/4.0/4.6 Recovery Points Installation
Introduction
Front Recovery Points
Rear Recovery Points
More Information
Photo: Ian
Ramage's completed front recovery points
Introduction
One strange deficiency in most Land Rovers is the seeming oversight on
the part of the maker to provide decent recovery points front and rear.
Anyone who goes off road at all knows that these are vital, and one
would think Land Rover would provide them -- epecially when the
lowliest Chevy or Ford off-road poseur vehicles are usually provided
with good sturdy recovery hooks right off the factory floor. Ian Ramage
of New Zealand faced this problem on his 1997 Range Rover
P38A. When he purchased it in 2006 it was always with the intention of
taking it off road. He found that to be taken seriously at his local
club (the
Land Rover
Owners Club of Auckland) and to go off road he
needed
two recovery points at the front and at least one at the rear. He could
not find any aftermarket ones, so decided to
design
and fit his own. Ian kindly supplied the illustrated details on this
page describing his fabrication and installation project.
Front
Recovery Points
After a lot of careful thinking
and
measuring (I had the front bumper off about 6 times in 3 weeks) I had
come up
with a plan of what to build, and how to mount them, without major
reconstruction of the front bumper.
I started off with 4 pieces of
HT steel
plate (200mm x 80mm x10mm) for the sides and 2 piece of HT steel plate
(180mm x
85mm x 10mm) for the recovery shackles
plates. I measured the distance from the bottom of the original
recovery ring
on the front LH near side (RHD vehicle) to the centre of the bottom
hole of the
side plates then used the metal washer plate from the bolts fixing the
bumper
crush cone to work out the position of the second upper hole.
The washer plate in position on
the bumper
crush cone before removing.
I then drilled
out these 2
holes on each
plate, starting with a 3mm drill, and
increasing the size until they were 12mm. I then used the width and
radius of
the original recovery ring as the template for the recovery shackle
plate. As
you can see it is wider at the join of the side plates, as it has to
fit over the
outside of the bumper crush cones when fitted.
I used an angle grinder to cut and shape the plate to the
desired width
and radius end. The hole in the shackle recovery plate is at the centre
of the
radius of the end piece and is 22mm or the pin size of a 4.75 tonne
shackle.
Once all the holes were
drilled, I took the
steel plate to a local engineering shop and got them to weld them up
for me (HT
steel, so special welding required). I then sprayed them with 3 coats
of zinc
primer and 3 coats of black top coat.

The finished recover plates
waiting for
fitting (the 12mm hole at the back, I added for when I want to bolt a
sump
guard on later)
I also got 4 x 115mm x12mm HT
bolts (10.9 or
5.0 SAE) for securing the brackets to the chassis.
Once the brackets were complete
it was time
to throw caution to the wind and attack the car itself. I stripped off
the
front bumper and grill (again!) and then removed the original recovery
ring
with the trusty angle grinder. I again zinced and top coated the
transmission
cooler frame once they were removed.

Front end stripped showing
bumper crumple
cones and original towing ring before removal.
I
marked up the bumper crumple
cones
positions so I would get them realigned correctly once the installation
started (see picture below).

I used a white tip-ex pen to
mark the
positions.
Once marked, I
removed the
bumper crumple
cones and checked that the recovery brackets fitted over them. Once
they
fitted, I bolted the bumper crumple cone back on in position using the
bottom
bolt only, then fitted the new recovery bracket into place and aligned
at the
top bolt position. I had to cut the plastic sides off the transmission
cooler
surround to fit the bracket snugly. I used mole grips to hold the
bracket in
place then drilled the top hole through the bumper crumple cone and
chassis,
with a 12mm drill. I fitted the metal washer plate and bolted the top
12mm HT
bolt tight, but still allowing me to remove the original bottom bolt
and slide
the bracket into position and aligned with the bottom hole.

Bumper crumple cone and
recovery plate
fitted and drilling out bottom 12mm hole.
I then drilled
out the bottom
hole to 12mm
and bolted the 2nd HT bolt into place, checking I still had
the
bumper crumple cone and the bracket aligned. The bolts were then
removed one by
one and covered with ‘Res-Q-Steel’ for protection (copper slip would
also do).

Bolt removed with "Res-Q-Steel"
The same procedure
was repeated
for the RH
off side, except this side was easier, as I had just done one, and
there was no
recovery ring to remove first.

Both brackets fitted and the
original
plastic hole cover refitted to near side recovery point
I then refitted the
original
plastic hole
cover from the original recovery ring after a bit of modification. The
front
bumper needed to be modified next. A hole, the same size as the
original LH
near side recovery ring hole, was cut into the bumper on the RH off
side using
a small drill to make a pilot hole and a jig saw.

Hole cut in LH side of bumper
for new
recovery point.
I cut a piece
of 20mm thick
hatch rubber I
had laying around to fit the hole and the angle and fitted this onto
the new
Recovery bracket then refitted the bumper and grill. I
then attached two 4.75 tonne
shackles which
fitted the holes and I filled up the space between the shackle jaws
with 22mm
galvanised washers to stop any movement of the shackle.

The finished result at the
front.
Total
cost for the
front recovery brackets was NZ$ 150 (US$ 100) (UK£52)
includes parts, welding and bolts. The outside of the brackets are
now in place for fitting a winch plate at a later date when all the
other
things I need have been added.
Rear Recovery Point
At the back, I had an after
market tow bar
fitted when I bought the car, so I just replaced the 4 normal
automotive bolts
which attached it to the rear cross member of the chassis with similar
HT (10.9
or 5 SAE) bolts as I used at the front except 100mm x 10mm.

New HT 10.9 bolts attaching the
tow bar to
the chassis cross member
I removed the tow ball and
attached a 5.6
tonne hammer link through the tow ball hole. This was to give a
flexible
attachment point for the tow rope shackle.

I added 4 securing
points in
the rear cargo
bay for the spade, lunch box and other assorted paraphernalia needed on
an
adventure. Purchased a first aid kit, 2.1 kg fire extinguisher and a 9m
kinetic
tow rope and I was ready for the thrills and spills of off roading.
More Information
More
recovery point options for Front of Classic RRs and Rear of all RRs
Vehicle Recovery Equipment page
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