Minor maintenance - helpful for higher mileage RRS owners

[sbkim]

Has anyone been able to find a proper wrench for the oil filter?

Thanks

[TripleE]

Has anyone been able to find a proper wrench for the oil filter?

Was about ready to pick this one up: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/W300.cfm

[gooseyloosey]

Has anyone been able to find a proper wrench for the oil filter?

Was about ready to pick this one up: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/W300.cfm

I'm a stab it guy.

Btw, I've never used a band wrench on the RRS filter and it is fairly roomy in the area, but IMO the drawback is in areas with little room (most auto engines) they don't work too well.

[PJPR01]

Same here....just as easy to stick a screwdriver into it and rotate, I couldn't get a band filter remover on it either...

[Frisco_TX_RRS]

i wipe the filter with 409\windex to remove any oil\grease so I can get a good grip and use a little muscle power to get the filter off

[PJPR01]

That's a good idea as well...or one of those rubber devices used to take the top off a jar...all good suggestions.

[gooseyloosey]

i wipe the filter with 409\windex to remove any oil\grease so I can get a good grip and use a little muscle power to get the filter off

Its called the Dr. No method.

Its especially manly to do this when the oil temp is over 200F, except I like to use a pink ladies dishwashing glove.

[payne]

In addition to this, I had my front sway bar bushings replaced - very easy to do, and this solved a very recent clunking sound I was hearing on some rough roads.

After all of this was done - car again is rock solid, no wiggle or clunking at all, smooth as silk...onwards to the next 75K miles!

Total Cost: $325 for parts and labor done at Land Rovers Unlimited (Independent shop in the Woodlands)

Do you have the active swaybars? I was quoted $650 by the local Land Rover dealer to replace the swaybar bushings on my 06 RRS SC...

How easy would it be to DIY on the sway bar bushings?

Jason

[PJPR01]

Hello Jason,

Actually I do not have the active ones...just the normal rubber bushings on mine. It's a bit awkward to get to, but not impossible, but I'm not sure what the setup is on the active sway bars.

Sorry!

[PJPR01]

Well...did my oil change today at 120K...and surprise surprise, for the first time ever, actually did find 1 gallon containers at my auto parts store. Now I know why I've never seen them before, they were actually very few gallon containers, all hidden on the bottom row in the corner, and none in Royal Purple which is what I usually use.

So...decided to go with Mobil 1 this time around, and it was 50% of the price of Royal Purple for the same volume...must have been on sale.

All good and smooth again...and no footprints on the ceiling!

[gooseyloosey]

All good and smooth again...and no footprints on the ceiling!

I see what you did there

Oh, and since everyone is in a spring maintenence mood, PEP Boys is having a M1 sale, 5Qts and a M1 oil filter for $30. The M1 oil filter is a good filter and not some junk like Fram.

Also A-B is having a sale on air filters till May 1. This is the $19 air filter made in Austria by Mahle which I got:
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/PHE000112.cfm

It looks exactly the same to me as the higher priced OEM branded filter selling for $34 that I have in the car
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/PHE000112G.cfm

[TripleE]

@ 70k now and ready to do some more work. I've done the front/rear diffs around 40 or 50k, but wanted to do the transfer case now. I was looking at the maintenance schedule and was a bit confused:






Has anyone done the automatic transmission fluid and filter (10 years)? What about the front and rear axle oil (10 years)?

[Frisco_TX_RRS]

3E - not sure if they are referring to the Front and rear Differential Oil which I see no mention off, only the locking diff, which I'm not sure is the same.

Only other thing I can see is when you take the half shaft out, there is lubrication back there, and the instruction calls that axle oil.

I would change the tranny filter - just trying to find time to do mine. Changing the transmission filter will be a PITA. Here is the instructions with no pics. #8 worrys me. There is not easy way from the way I look at it to drop the pan without raising the engine. Need to check with local shop. Also the exhaust is in the way.

1. 1. Remove the battery compartment side wall.
   2. Raise and support the vehicle.
   3. Remove the exhaust system.
   4. Remove the transmission heat shield.
   • Remove the 4 bolts.
   5. Release the selector cable from its abutment bracket.
   6. Remove the transmission heat shield bracket.
   1. Remove the 4 bolts.
   7. Drain the transmission.
   8. Raise the RH side of the engine by approximately 40 mm.
   • Use a transmission jack.
   • Remove the 2 bolts.
   9. Remove the fluid pan.
   • Position a container to collect the fluid spillage.
   • Remove the 21 Torx screws.
   • Remove and if necessary, discard the seal.
   • Discard the O-ring seal.
   Installation
   
   
   1. Install the fluid pan.
   • Clean the components.
   • Install the seal.
   • Install a new O-ring seal.
   • Tighten the Torx screws to 8 Nm (6 lb.ft).
   2. Lower the RH side of engine.
   • Remove the engine support.
   • Tighten the bolts to 45 Nm (33 lb.ft).
   3. Install the transmission heat shield bracket.
   • Tighten the 4 bolts to 10 Nm (7 lb.ft).
   • Connect the selector cable to its abutment bracket.
   4. Install the transmission heat shield.
   • Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (7 lb.ft).
   5. Install the exhaust system.
   6. Install the battery compartment side wall.
   7. Refill the transmission with fluid.

[PJPR01]

Hey Eric...I did my transmission fluid a while back I think around 75K maybe...it was still very clear. I'm almost at 140K, and just bought the fluid again, so will be doing it as soon as I hit 140K. I don't think they did the filter, but I recall The Boss saying some thing to the effect that it wasn't necessary, if my memory is correct.

At any rate, interesting that you ask about the axles, what I'm wondering is whether anyone knows if it's normal to have a little bit of movement in the half shafts. I noticed that all 4 of mine have slight movement in them, I presume it's due to the u-joint style connections below the boots, but I'd be curious to know if anyone else has checked if those items move at all.

[Frisco_TX_RRS]

PJP - I would be caustious by just going by he color of the fluid. My wear metals were high when I sent the oil for analysis, so unless you drop the oil pand an do a full flush, it may be hard to get a nice clean fill.

Will have my RRS on a lift in the next week or 2 - will let you know on the half shaft.