i get the same clunking feeling/clicking sound. feels like somethings loose - you can feel it in the deadpedal and in the steering, even though the suspension feels settled.

dealer said they didn't notice anything.

 

I have the same thing and the dealer noted "unable to replicate" even though as I am pulling out of the dealer I can hear it. It sounds like its coming from the driverside and sounds like a muted thud almost like a loose shock, strut or bad bushings. I had the "itermediate steering shaft" replaced a while back but the noise never went away so that wasnt the problem.

 

I have the same problem in my 06. I took it in to the dealer, and they changed out the ball joints. It made an improvement in the steering, but the noise (clunking over bumps). I think I will try and find where it is coming from so I can let the dealer know.
I have no idea why they can't hear the problem with a test drive. Strange.

 

They also changed my entire steering rack, that stopped the dreaded wheel shimmy but not the noise.

 

is the wheel scarpping any where? its probably not that, but the iner wheel well could have popped off somewhere and causes it to rub the tire when you turn...

 

Wieghts for balancing

I might be dreaming, but didn't someone say that there are wights to balance the front and the back? I assumed this was the case. I have heard this on mine easpecially when it is abnormal movement of the car, easpecially if I produce a jerking mvt. Anyway just my $ 0.02.

 

I just drove my friend to my local dealer so he can have his RRS S/C looked at for this problem. They had a technician ride with him and he admited that this is a problem with the S/C models, apparently the suspension is different on the S/C which has a sort of bar that levels the vehicle when turning sharp corners. the sound comes from that bar...hope that helps, he referred to some sort of stabilizing bar.

 

Some people here don't have Dynamic Response, though... And still hear the clunk.

 

same problem. dealer claims they cant replicate it, which means Land Rover has decided its not worth doing a recall. Pretty lame actually. This is my 4th Range Rover, and it might make me move to another brand. I live in the city, and the car sounds like total ass going over bumps. Unfortunately, I think the ford ownership is starting to show through. Service at land rover has gone to shiat.

 

TSB: LS204-011

Dynamic Response / Ride and Handling Optimization System Noise

AFFECTED VEHICLE RANGE:
Range Rover Sport (LS) All vehicles equipped with Dynamic Response system

CONDITION SUMMARY:
'THUD' FELT OR 'PULSE'/'CLICKING' NOISE HEARD FROM UNDER THE VEHICLE
Situation: A customer may report a concern of an under-car 'thud' from the front or rear suspension, or an under-car 'pulse'/'clicking' noise from the dynamic response valve block or hydraulic tubing. In some cases, the noise may be described as similar to 'water hammer', the noise experienced in a domestic water system when a faucet is turned off quickly.

NOTE: Changing any of the dynamic response system components will not eliminate the noise. Visual inspection for problems and torque checks must be completed.
The described noise is a characteristic of the dynamic response system and is generated when there is a sudden change in oil flow in the hydraulic circuit. This is a result of a direction control valve switching in response to driving inputs. The change in flow will be accompanied by a pressure pulse, which will be transmitted through the hydraulic and mechanical
components associated with the system. The duration and amplitude of the pulse make it audible.
There are components in the Dynamic Response and associated systems that can influence the level of the noise.
Action: Should a customer express concern regarding the above, refer to the Repair Procedure detailed in this bulletin to check the associated systems.

PARTS:
No parts are required for this bulletin. Information purposes only.

WARRANTY:
No warranty provided for this bulletin. Information purposes only.

REPAIR PROCEDURE
CHECKING FOR PROBLEMS CAUSING DYNAMIC RESPONSE SYSTEM NOISE
NOTE: The noise will not be eliminated by replacing Dynamic Response system components. The visual inspection and torque checks detailed below must be completed.
NOTE: It may not be possible to achieve the same noise level on all vehicles. The amplitude of the noise will vary from vehicle to vehicle due to natural variability, ambient and system temperature, component tolerances and dynamic response system hydraulic characteristics.
NOTE: Following inspections below, if no problems are found, it is likely that there is no fault with the system and the noise generated is simply the characteristic of the system. The customer may be informed of the noise characteristics generated by a hydraulic system pressure pulse.
1. Ensure that all Dynamic Response system connections are secure and problem free.
2. Check other vehicle components for any of the following conditions that could exaggerate the noise:
• Steering linkage integrity and securing torque.
• Stabilizer bar linkage integrity and securing torque.
• Stabilizer bar linkage damage or contact to other components.
• Stabilizer bar bushing and bushing clamp integrity and securing torque.
3. Check the Dynamic Response system components for any of the following conditions:
• Pipe work damage or potential contact with the body or chassis.
• Pipe work mounting clamp integrity and isolation.
• Hydraulic valve block damage or potential contact with the chassis.

 

TSB: LTB00029

Ride and Handling Optimization System Shudder

AFFECTED VEHICLE RANGE:
Range Rover Sport (LS) VIN: 6A900129 to 6A996253
(Vehicles equipped with Dynamic Response system)

CONDITION SUMMARY:
'SHUDDER' FELT OR RAPID 'PULSING' NOISE HEARD FROM UNDER THE VEHICLE
Situation: A customer may report a concern of an under-car 'shudder' from the front or rear suspension, or an under-car rapid 'pulsing' noise heard from the dynamic response valve block or hydraulic tubing. The shudder may continue as long as the driving conditions that created the shudder remain constant, or the shudder may subside, typically in less than five seconds.
Certain driving situations that are most commonly known to cause the concern are as follows:
• From single wheel inputs as follows:
o When speed bumps are traversed at an angle
o Over small step changes in a road surface, such as driveway entrances, broken road surfaces etc.
• From specific road design and vehicle driving styles as follows:
o When the vehicle is cornering at a speed between 6 mph (10 kph) to 19 mph (30 kph)
o Where the road has a significant camber
o When the steering wheel angle is greater than +/-10 degrees
o When the steering wheel angle is held constant for approximately 2 seconds during the turn where the road surface is not perfectly smooth.
The Dynamic Response system control software performs an inaccurate estimation of the road surface conditions, resulting in overcompensation for what it perceives as very small changes in vehicle direction. This overcompensation causes fluctuations in the control pressure delivered to the stabilizer bar actuators producing the shudder.
Action: Should a customer report a concern regarding the above, refer to the Repair Procedure detailed in this bulletin to update the Dynamic Response system control module software.

PARTS:
No parts are required for this bulletin. Information purposes only.

TOOLS:
IDS DVD 103 with Patch File 1 or later software installed

 

Posted this one already on another thread, added picture and repair procedure. Not that it will help any, but you never know...

TSB: LTB00097

Steering Column Knock – Repair Procedure

AFFECTED VEHICLE RANGE:
LR3 (LA) VIN: 5A000360 - 7A444606 Model Year: 2005-2007
Range Rover Sport (LS) VIN 6A900290 – 7A999999
7A100000 – 7A122778 Model Year: 2006 - 2007

CONDITION SUMMARY: MINOR 'KNOCKING' NOISE FROM THE STEERING INTERMEDIATE SHAFT
Situation: A customer may report a concern of a minor 'knocking' noise coming from the front of the vehicle or a steering system component while driving over small bumps or undulating road surfaces. A low resistance in the sliding mechanism of the lower steering shaft may be the cause of the noise.
Action: Should a customer express a concern related to the above condition, refer to the Repair Procedure detailed in this bulletin to diagnose and resolve the concern.

PARTS:
QLB500070 .............Upper Intermediate shaft Qty 1 (as required)
QMN500250.............Lower Intermediate shaft Qty 1 (as required)
QYG10016L.............Bolt (upper I-shaft to lower I-shaft) Qty 1 (as required)
QYG000030.............Bolt (lower I-shaft to steering gear) Qty 1 (as required)

REPAIR PROCEDURE
INSPECT AND REPAIR STEERING SHAFT ASSEMBLY
NOTE: All inspection and repair procedures must be completed before determining if an intermediate shaft should be replaced. Component references may be found in Figure 1.
1. Inspect the upper and lower intermediate shaft assembly as follows:
• Inspect the upper intermediate shaft 'decoupler' assembly for excessive movement. (Arrowed in Figure 1 inset)
• Inspect the upper intermediate shaft decoupler assembly and ensure the steel and rubber washers are correctly located. (Inset in Figure 1)
• Verify that the fasteners joining the steering column universal joint to the upper intermediate shaft are tightened to 30 Nm (22 lbf-ft). (2 in Figure 1)
• Inspect the joint between the upper intermediate shaft and lower intermediate shaft for any movement. (3 in Figure 1)
• Inspect the joint between the lower intermediate shaft universal joint and steering gear for any movement. (4 in Figure 1)
• Inspect the sliding mechanism of the lower intermediate shaft for any lateral 'play' or looseness. (5 in Figure 1)
2. If movement is discovered as quantified below, repair in sequence and as instructed:
• If excessive movement exists in the upper intermediate shaft 'decoupler' assembly, replace the upper intermediate shaft (QLB500070).
• If any of the decoupler assembly washers is incorrectly located, replace the upper intermediate shaft (QLB500070).
• If any movement exists in the connection between the upper intermediate shaft and lower intermediate shaft, replace the retaining bolt (QYG10016L) and tighten to 30 Nm (22 lbf-ft). (3 in Figure 1)
• If any movement exists in the connection between the lower intermediate shaft universal joint and steering gear, replace the retaining bolt (QYG000030) and tighten to 30 Nm (22 lbf-ft). (4 in Figure 1)
• If any lateral 'play' or looseness exists in the sliding mechanism of the lower intermediate shaft, replace the lower intermediate shaft (QMN500250).
3. After replacing any components, ensure the integrity of the steering shaft assembly and fasteners.

Figure 1:

 

thanks for that umbertob....going to show that to my service guy at my 15k appointment.

 

I had the intermdiate shaft replaced and it did not help.

 

Prayn4Sno, was it replaced per above TSB (I'm assuming your receipt lists parts)? There are an upper and a lower shaft listed, plus joints/bolts... The TSB just came out a week ago, so it may be worth calling your service advisor to ask whether they may want to give it another shot since your noise is still there.

 

No not as-per the TSB, it was as-per me getting very annoyed hearing my front end rattle like a 1984 corolla. I had it done on April 25,2007 and the noise is still there. According to my receipt they only replaced, QMN500250...Lower Intermediate shaft Qty 1 (as required). I wonder if they replaced all that stuff on the TSB you posted it would fix the clunk. Ill have to call LR when I get the chance. Thanks.

 

I just drove my friend to my local dealer so he can have his RRS S/C looked at for this problem. They had a technician ride with him and he admited that this is a problem with the S/C models, apparently the suspension is different on the S/C which has a sort of bar that levels the vehicle when turning sharp corners. the sound comes from that bar...hope that helps, he referred to some sort of stabilizing bar.

This is great, but why did this bar start clunking after 5 month of quiet operation?

 

is the wheel scarpping any where? its probably not that, but the iner wheel well could have popped off somewhere and causes it to rub the tire when you turn...

No scraping whatsoever. Also, the noise is not coming from particular side. Its coming sort of from under the front end of the car.

 

same problem. dealer claims they cant replicate it, which means Land Rover has decided its not worth doing a recall. Pretty lame actually. This is my 4th Range Rover, and it might make me move to another brand. I live in the city, and the car sounds like total ass going over bumps. Unfortunately, I think the ford ownership is starting to show through. Service at land rover has gone to shiat.

You are right, the noise is annoying as hell, but I am afraid that its not harmless. After reading stories about front differentials locking up on Land Rovers at 70mph on a highway, I am willlling to go as far as have to (including lemon law) ito get this fixed. My wife and my 11-month old daughter ride in the car on a regular basis and I am not about to risk their lives just because some moron at LR does not know how to do their job.

 

front differentials locking up on Land Rovers at 70mph on a highway

I never heard of such a catastrophic failure happening to a RRS (or a Disco / LR3), 2002/5 FFRRs had their share of front diff problems, some of them catastrophic, but they share virtually nothing in common with the Sport.

 

I printed them out and took them to the dealer to make my appointment. It's funny how they'd never heard of them before. I feel like ford has put all their service people through a "play dumb first, and save us some money" class or something. They told me to bring the service bulletins back when I bring the car in on monday.

I buy my rovers from a family friend that works there, so when I go back on monday, Im going to let him know that he's probably losing my business if this doesnt get fixed.

Whenever I take my porsche in to get serviced, they're always trying to get me to test drive a cayenne turbo...looks like Im going to take them up on it....I guess its worth testing the x5 as well.

 

I noticed the "clunk" on my S/C right after my 15k service.
I live on a dirt road & It's quite noticeable -
I'll need to take the service rep over a washboard to accentuate/prolong it.
I first thought it might be of the plastic bins on either side of the firewall - not resembled properly during service -
but it's lower on the chassis - It sounds like a broken strut on an 80's ride.
Hope this thread leads to a definitive answer.

 

- not resembled properly during service -

Gotta love SpellCheck - reassembled

 

I have an appointment Tuesday morning to hopefully get this fixed. I have had the clunk since March and it is becoming VERY annoying. They replaced 1-part of the listed TSB parts back in April but the clunk is still there. I told the S/A on the phone about my several attempts to get this fixed only to get the old "unable to replicate" from the dealer, but after I told her about my quest, the number of times at the dealer for this and the TSB issued for the same **** problem I have complaining about for the last several months she told me to just bring in the TSB and they will take care of it, so we will see. And I would always say the same thing, that it sounded like a broken/bad strut and all I got was the deer in the headlight look. Ill let everybody know how it goes next week.

 

I'm not sure if we have the same problem but it was a pain to get my problem addressed. They couldn't identify the noise until they placed suspension ears. Prior top that, they thought I was crazy and kept telling me its the DRS and its completely normal.

Read my thread here
http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15429&highlight=

Now 8 months later, I hear other noises which clearly sound like a bad bushing on the drivers side. I brought it in and they fixed it. I'm happy again, for now. This is how it was written up:

"Cust states: Creaking noise coming from suspension and thumping noise under veh over bumps or when braking"
Road tested vehicle to verify cust complaint. Checked and inspected front suspension. Heard noise from front sway bar. R&R all ness part and replaced right and left front sway bar bushings as per TIB assembled vehicle reroad tested, rechecked. No creaking noise heard.

Payn - If you can, bring the veh to Paramus. They seem to know whats going on and address them after i and others have complained. I can give you my SA name