My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB
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Thread: My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB

  1. #1
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB

    Hi all, I'm new to the forum and RRC projects... but seeing as I'm reaching that special mid-life milestone in a few days, I've decided to take on yet another auto related project. All my previous ones have been BMW's which were track related. This is my first foray into RRC builds and I wanted to share some plans/pics and seek some advice for the gurus.


    The Rover is a 1995 RRC LWB, white on tan, southern truck with about 175k on her. I picked her up a few weeks ago and brought her back to a fellow BMW/Porsche mechanic/builder. I was pleased to find that after installing a new fuel pump and brake circuit switch she started right up and shifted out of park (all as the PO disclosed)!

    My plan is to restore it to a clean, reliable daily driver with a few tasteful upgrades while staying mostly stock. Here's what I have on my list so far and I'd love any feedback on whether the more experienced folks think I'm missing anything, going overboard, etc.


    My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB-s-l1600-7.jpgMy first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB-s-l1600-12.jpgMy first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB-s-l1600-2.jpgMy first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB-s-l1600-9.jpg
    • Replace engine with remanufactured 4.2 w/ performance cam from Turner Engineering along with all hoses, belts, water pump, etc. (I will keep original engine for posterity and numbers)
    • Replace trans with Atlantic British reman
    • Refresh suspension with OME medium duty springs and steering dampener, all bushings with blue poly, and also ball joints.
    • Compound and polish paint
    • Replace upper tailgate frame and opening mechanism as existing is rusted/missing
    • Have upholstery headliner redone
    • Refinish or vinyl cover wood parts
    • Work my way through electrical gremlins (e.g., Driver power seat and window inop, no heater blower - but AC blower works, etc.
    I'm sure that's plenty, but as I said I'm curious to see what others think about order/priority and any tips on hard to find parts.

    Thanks!

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  3. #2
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB

    Beautiful! Love that color combo and it would seem you have a good specimen to work from.

    I'm doing a 92 SWB myself... reds a little more help than yours, but still with it.

    Good luck!
    1992 Range Rover County SWB (Help)
    2012 Range Rover Sport SC
    2004 Discovery II (Son's)
    2007 Range Rover Sport SC (gone but not forgotten)
    2005 LR3 SE (gone but not forgotten)
    2001 Range Rover HSE (gone but not forgotten)
    2011 Honda Odyssey Tourning Elite... I know, I know...
    1965 Ford Mustang 289 K-Car

  4. #3
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB

    How funny, I saw your post and that inspired me to finally get mine up there and seek advice!

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  6. #4
    FRESHMAN ROVER grnole's Avatar
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    Re: My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB

    welcome to hell

    haha just kidding, kind of. A few of us 95's are out there. If planning on doing all the engine/trans work, might be good to update the T-case from the Borg W to a LT230, all depends on what kind of offroading / over-landing you are doing, and the state of the BW...

    I have 2 stock front bumpers, and a factory brush bar. Condition is a B..

    Good luck, cant wait to see your updates!
    1995 4.2L RRC LWB Beluga Black Tan Leather 5" Rovertym lift

  7. #5
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB

    If the EAS is there, you might want to consider getting it refreshed, instead of switching to springs. My 2 Classics that were originally equipped with EAS didn't have it by the time I got the trucks so I haven't experienced it on a Classic, but on an L322 I'd picked up and fixed the engine, it rode really well.

    You mentioned rust on the tailgate, but nothing about the floor pans, firewall, wheel wells. I would do a very thorough inspection there. With all the sound deadening it can hide some major issues.
    1995 RRC LWB (2 of them for now...)
    Leesburg, Virginia - USA

  8. #6
    FRESHMAN ROVER grnole's Avatar
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    Re: My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB

    Quote Originally Posted by pcoburn View Post
    If the EAS is there, you might want to consider getting it refreshed, instead of switching to springs. My 2 Classics that were originally equipped with EAS didn't have it by the time I got the trucks so I haven't experienced it on a Classic, but on an L322 I'd picked up and fixed the engine, it rode really well.

    You mentioned rust on the tailgate, but nothing about the floor pans, firewall, wheel wells. I would do a very thorough inspection there. With all the sound deadening it can hide some major issues.
    +10 on the rust. If your tailgate is gone/rusted id bet on your rear floor rusted through, and potentially the rear cross member. (with my 95, I am currently tackling all the "common" rust spots) I really should make more threads...
    1995 4.2L RRC LWB Beluga Black Tan Leather 5" Rovertym lift

  9. #7
    Premium Member pl626's Avatar
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    Re: My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB

    Keep the EAS if you still have it. I swapped my EAS for OME coils and regret it. On paper, it seems like a good idea, but in reality, coils just don't come close to the ride quality the stock EAS provides especially the self leveling. With the EAS, you may want to add a MARS system , which is a manual override. EAS is a must for a daily driver.
    Be careful removing plastic trim, as they are old and brittle, & mostly NLA. If you still have the HK speaker grilles, don't touch them, as the mounting tabs will disintegrate if you attempt to remove them. They are very difficult to find.
    As others have mentioned, peel back the carpeting inspect the steel underneath. Very likely the padding is a wet sponge. That will rot your floors. Check the rear crossmember with your finger to make sure it's solid. These rot from the inside out, so it may appear solid, but if it gives when you touch it, you're going to have to replace it.
    The other problem areas are the front floorboards and foot wells. Also, check the sills. Rear wheel well is another problem area, as is the upper tailgate frame. You should apply a bead of 3M 5200 black around the new frame to keep water from weeping in, as the existing rubber is probably rotted & cracked, unless you have a brand new one.
    Check your bushings and swivel housing seals. Most likely, they'll need to be renewed if they haven't already been done.
    The seat ECU is a pretty easy fix, the OEM Varta battery has leaked and corroded the PCB. Most of the time, it can be repaired. A friend of mine actually will do the repair for about 350, but he's been working on his Series IIa rebuild, so he may be slower in responding. Plenty of info on this site for the repair.
    95s are unique in many respects, as many parts are unique to the soft dash. However, D1 parts are often swappable.
    For dd, the BorgWarner is nice, but if you really want a locking center dif, the LT230 swap is a good project to take on.
    I initially planned on building my 95 for wheeling, but I've change my mind, now that I've experienced the scarcity of restoration parts, as I eventually will do a frame up resto on her.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Cheers,

    pc

    '95 RRC SWB Alpine White
    '95 RRC LWB Avalon Blue - Sold
    '06 E350 Sport
    '87 HD FLST with '02 Fatboy sheetmetal
    '02 Hobie Getaway

  10. #8
    SOLIHULL ROVER
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    Re: My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB

    Ditch the 4.2L. They are not very well built. get a 4.6L and swap the parts over accordingly from your 4.2. You'll have a lot better engine, better power as well.

    I've had atleast 5 LWB's in the last year, that I have rebuilt. Only two of them had a good engine still. One guy had me put a 3.9 in to replace his 4.2L.

    Just speaking from experience with the 4.2. I haven't had good luck with them. I've had a lot better luck with the 3.5, 3.9 and 4.6 engines.

    My person truck had a 4.2 as well. I cooked that thing just driving up a mountain pass nice and slowly. So now its getting a diesel.
    1993 RRC LWB 4.2L
    2000 Discovery Locked and Loaded

  11. #9
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB

    Quote Originally Posted by getlost4x4 View Post
    Ditch the 4.2L. They are not very well built. get a 4.6L and swap the parts over accordingly from your 4.2. You'll have a lot better engine, better power as well.

    I've had atleast 5 LWB's in the last year, that I have rebuilt. Only two of them had a good engine still. One guy had me put a 3.9 in to replace his 4.2L.

    Just speaking from experience with the 4.2. I haven't had good luck with them. I've had a lot better luck with the 3.5, 3.9 and 4.6 engines.

    My person truck had a 4.2 as well. I cooked that thing just driving up a mountain pass nice and slowly. So now its getting a diesel.
    Thanks and I'd love to hear other's thoughts on this as well... I was about to pull the trigger on the AB 4.6 engine, but like the idea of keeping it as much stock as possible. Also, with the Turner engine there is no core swap here in the states, so I end up with the original (running) engine still available. Of course Turner will do the 4.6 as well, but recommends the 4.2... hard to know what is best.

  12. #10
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB

    Thanks for all the feedback guys! Regarding rust, I think I'm in pretty good shape outside of where the upper tailgate leaked and rusted the rear floor (see pics). But I will check all the spots folks have mentioned this weekend. If anyone has an upper tailgate, I'd be interested!
    My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB-img_1797.jpg

  13. #11
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB

    I should have mentioned the EAS is gone... thanks for the heads up on plastic parts. Some parts of the doors are in bad shape (e.g. hand hold plastic cups and at least one missing speaker grill). I don't plan to do too much wheeling with this one and want to try and keep it stock for the long haul where possible based on parts and $$$.

  14. #12
    Premium Member pl626's Avatar
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    Re: My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB

    Quote Originally Posted by jeffwm View Post
    Thanks for all the feedback guys! Regarding rust, I think I'm in pretty good shape outside of where the upper tailgate leaked and rusted the rear floor (see pics). But I will check all the spots folks have mentioned this weekend. If anyone has an upper tailgate, I'd be interested!
    Attachment 210634
    Ouch, you should also look underneath, check the floorboard seams. Based on the rust you have on the top, I'd bet the seams are beginning to bulge. That's another sign of rust damage. You're rear cross member is probably soft in spots. Folks have made their own rear members from box frame. YRM Solutions makes a good replacement cross member. RoversNorth also sells one.

    You may want to keep your eye out for parts trucks. I had a running LWB I picked up for the motor, but didn't have to use it. I did get other parts off of it, including hard to find plastic bits. BTW, 3D printing is an option for old plastic. My near perfect instrument bezel (broken at one of the mounts), was replaced by a perfect 3D printed bezel in a stronger ABS plastic. Even the stamping marks were reproduce.
    Cheers,

    pc

    '95 RRC SWB Alpine White
    '95 RRC LWB Avalon Blue - Sold
    '06 E350 Sport
    '87 HD FLST with '02 Fatboy sheetmetal
    '02 Hobie Getaway

  15. #13
    FRESHMAN ROVER
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    Re: My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB

    Thanks for the points on the cross member. I was wondering about 3D printing for plastic parts... is there somewhere that specializes in that or just anyone with the equipment?

  16. #14
    Premium Member pl626's Avatar
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    My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB

    Quote Originally Posted by jeffwm View Post
    Thanks for the points on the cross member. I was wondering about 3D printing for plastic parts... is there somewhere that specializes in that or just anyone with the equipment?
    None that I know of as it's such a small niche market. My friend who goes by 'Belgian' has done a few pieces, and has a list of plastic bits to scan, but between his day job, grad school, wife, various Rovers, he's got a fair amount on his plate. I've found a few things on Thingiverse & Shapeways.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Cheers,

    pc

    '95 RRC SWB Alpine White
    '95 RRC LWB Avalon Blue - Sold
    '06 E350 Sport
    '87 HD FLST with '02 Fatboy sheetmetal
    '02 Hobie Getaway

  17. #15
    FRESHMAN ROVER grnole's Avatar
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    Re: My first Range Rover Classic Project - '95 County LWB

    Regarding Rust - Agreed with PL. My rear cross is shot, 1/2 of it was removed, and I am rebuilding it myself. (didn't feel like messing with YRM) and also didnt want to remove the Entire thing if I did not have to.

    Jeff - its a bit of a chore to do, but definitely pull up your front floor mats / carpets / sound deadener. A lot of us do not like the stuff they used under the carpet as it acts like a sponge allowing water to sit against the steel floors and just create rust. I removed ALL of mine from the truck, and plan on replacing it with something a bit less intrusive. Got some sound / heat stuff off amazon, ill see how it does. There are a ton of different ways water finds their way into classics. And I have not seen many dry up front. Here are some of the ways - I had/have just about all of them.

    Windshield seam (different for a 95 than all other years)
    Wiper motor access panel gasket (located under the cowl)
    Firewall - especially passenger side wheel well under washer bottle (water pools up there and enters into cab)
    Both wheel wells-
    Trans Tunnel both sides (likely caused from clogged AC drain vents which also live in the trans tunnel)
    Seat mount / rust damage (steel screws that stick out on the underside of the truck rust into the floors and burn a hole over time)
    Residual pooling water damage running down floors burning long holes parallel to wings

    In my 95, I had all of them, and I am almost done patching. Luckily my A pillar was not compromised from the rust. I haven't gone for restoration quality patches... instead I got some 16 gauge steel sheets, cut them and burned / riveted / silicone until water tight. (I have learned how to weld as these projects have taken hold)

    Also - keep in mind that there are only two steel external body panels - the hood / and the lower tailgate. Being that your upper tailgate leaked. Theres a chance the water got inside the lower tailgate. Small chance because yours is not as bad as mine. But still a chance. I horde lower tailgates and hoods in my color if available. =) I also live in the rust belt.
    1995 4.2L RRC LWB Beluga Black Tan Leather 5" Rovertym lift

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