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Stall, but no CEL and no codes?

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cel codes stall
3K views 12 replies 4 participants last post by  Tom109 
#1 ·
Over the past two months my LWB has stalled twice. Once at a stop light and once slowing for a turn. To me this seems like the IACV or TPS, but in both instances there were no OBD codes or even a CEL. Shouldn't something like this trip a code? The CEL illuminates at the start-up bulb test, and the OBD reader is in place.

Engine is running fantastic, but I'll pull the IACV to have a look (but it was last cleaned about 5k miles and 10 months ago). The TPS is original to the truck, but only 57k miles on it. I'm leaning toward the IACV...
 
#2 ·
Won't hurt to remove and inspect, then spray the stepper with carb cleaner. What year is your rig?


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#3 ·
1995 LWB. I pulled the IACV and cleaned it - wasn't really dirty from a service/cleaning 11 months ago. It's been running well, no stalling (which is most important as this is the wife's daily driver!). Still questioning the OBD display. Does it only display thrown codes - that is to ask if it stays off/dark if no code?

I'm about to throw the plastic seat surrounds back on...
 
#5 ·
I had similar symptoms. No code, but stalling randomly. Mine was the IAC valve, but the kicker was after replacing the part, I had to disconnect the battery entirely, and touch the two cables together. This cleared the memory in the CPU, and finally my stalling was cured.
 
#6 ·
I have a new IACV arriving today, so I'll see if that makes any difference.

One problem that continually resurfaces is loosening of the ignition control module mounting screws (on the distributor). After the previous stall in July, I snugged them up and drove for just over a month before it stalled, when again these screws required tightening. I just checked them this morning and they snugged-up 1/2-turn.

Last Spring I was plagued with faulty modules, and intermittent ignition ground issues. I went back to the stock location to eliminate the relocation kit as a problem. I may relocate it this weekend, but I'm not convinced it is necessary. I keep two tested modules in the glove box, and personally it seems easier to swap the module off the distributor than to have to pull the coil and relocation bracket to swap one (I'm thinking: side of the road, in the rain...).
 
#7 ·
The heat and vibration on the dizzy location is what cooks the IAM. I prefer the safer relo. Did you use threadlock on the mounting screws?


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#8 ·
PC,

I am relocating the ignition model today.

Can you tell me where the red and blue wires are connected on your coil (or post a photo)? They are not addressed on the relocation kit instructions, and these wires may be unique to the 1995 MY.
 
#9 ·

The two wires on the left side of the coil go to the IAM on my 95 SWB. Did you get your relo from AB? ISTR there were issues w/ their instructions. Check their tech Sppt.


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#11 ·
Ok I am relocating the module today. The kit I have is from Auto Electrical Spares, but their instructions make no note of the red and blue wires pictured in my post above. However, on RR.net's ignition module page it states:

"5. The ignition coil now has to be removed. On vehicles before LH 624781, disconnect the black/white wire from the coil negative termminal, wrap its end with insulation and tie it out of the way --this wire is no longer needed. On later models, do the same withe th red and blue wires (no longer needed)."

So, my question is - should the relocation result in a non-start, will any damage occur to the module if the red and blue are disconnected? What about re-connecting the red and blue for testing purposes and test starting???
 
#12 ·
Solution found !!!

This morning I traced the Red & Blue wires from the coil and found they go to the ignition amplifier module on the distributor. I then traced the two remaining wires and found the black/white (the relocation instructions say to remove) triggers the injector circuit, and the other is from the ignition switch. Knowing this I re-installed the relocation kit, disconnecting the unused red & blue, leaving everything else in place and bingo, perfect start.


I'll contact both suppliers and update them with the technical info so anyone else installing this kit on a late 1995MY RRC will know their ignition amp and coil wiring more closely matches the 1994-1995 D1 wiring. Hopefully they can avoid these issues.
 
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