Range Rovers Forum banner

'94 County LWB ~ Metal Crickets

2K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  pl626 
#1 ·
'94 RR County LWB 4.2

Please help me diagnose this noise: rattling noise, quickly growing worse, passenger side, front end.
Noise only under load. Completely stops if I take my foot off of accelerator, and seems to stop if I punch up the gas a little.
Noise is very loud under freeway speeds and now turning into more squealing sound.
Noise sounds a little like crickets, a little high, a little chirpy. Metallic crickets.

Local shop said brakes were shot. So, I replaced pads, rotors, and 1 leaking caliper 2 days ago.
Wheel bearing are really bad, but I had wrong bearings so they haven't been changed out YET.
I can't tell if this noise is coming from wheel or not.
Drove car yesterday and noise was not so bad. Today it sounds like something is going to fall off of my car.

I might add (don't know if this is important or extraneous) that not too long before the noise started I ran over 5 gallon plastic bucket
that rolled in front of me at speed.

Please note that I am "60 or better" and not all that knowledgeable about mechanics, BUT I love my car
and will do what I can to keep it running. BTW - Hard to find someone who will work on RR locally.
 
See less See more
#2 · (Edited)
I can't see a way to update thread, so maybe this is it.

Cricket noises have become intermittent whine/squeal type noise.
Tire and brake guy assures me that it is nothing to do with brake work.
I have now been to about 15 shops that won't even look at a Range Rover!

Can anyone even point me in any direction to start with a high pitched squely whine sound from front end that:
(1) only happens when car is driving slow and maneuvering or at steady speed
(2) stops immediately the second I take my foot of of the gas or punch the gas

At this point I am completely flummoxed.

UPDATE: my mechanically inclined neighbors just took a spin around the block with me and thinks that it is a belt. That is the direction that I was leaning too. Now all I need is to find a mechanic who will wrench a belt attached to a RR. This could be good, folks! :D
 
#4 ·
There's a plethora of things it could be, so here's some things to check


if you're only getting it at certain speeds, and not at standstill, it's unlikely to be engine related – still worth checking to eliminate, so with the hood up and the handbrake on, car in neutral, get under the hood and throttle her up – listen for belts slipping, ancilliaries like the alternator bearings failing etc.


as you've run something over, get under the car and check the steel brake disc shield is not damaged, loose or bent – if it's touching anything it shouldn't be it'll make a right old racket.
Also check the front prop – I had a wire coat hanger wrap itself around the prop and the noise was horrific, but only when I was driving fast – the inertia of the prop meant the wire hit things when going fast, but not when going slow



Jack each front wheel up and check for rocking – 6 o'clock and quarter past nine – do it with a mate depressing the brake pedal, and again with the brake pedal released – there should be no movement


with the engine running and the car parked, turn the steering slowly lock to lock – see if the power steering is whaling at you – do it fast as well


also, drive until the noise is apparent – check your road speed. Then drop down one gear, and get the car to the same road speed – if the noise is not there, or is very different, then the tranny may be at fault – if the noise is still apparent and identical, it's more likely to be axle orientated



try that for a start..
 
#6 ·
pl626 - lone wolf told me that the alternator belt was a little bit loose, but that he wouldn't be able to work on it. After another cruise around, listening to the noise, I am not so sure that it's a belt.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Osis - I am really working on this and here is what I can tell you so far.

(1) Found a YouTube video of bad alternator bearings and that really does sound a lot like the collection of chirps, rattles, and whines that my car is making, but it will not make the noise at all while stationary.
(2) I may have to take it back to brake guy to check brake disc shield. I haven't got that kind of talent.
(3) I am thinking it could be either drive-shaft. Maybe both. Drive shafts and U-joints are old and on my to do list already. I can't afford to do both right now. I could do one if I could find a mechanic who isn't RR phobic, then do the other in 3-4 weeks.
(4) Power steering seems to be OK
(5) Road testing this is really tricky. Other than noise under load, and no noise when decelerating, there doesn't seem to be any discernible pattern here. It's raining like crazy at the moment. I will try to brave road test (and go back to brake guy) if it ever lets up for a few minutes.

(6) I really appreciate all of the suggestions from the Roverhood. It is SO much more helpful than what I am getting locally. Now, back to search for a mechanic. Will continue to check in.


UPDATE: Parts store was able to point me at a mechanic who WILL work on Range Rovers. There is no room at the inn until next week, but that is fantastic news!
 
#8 ·
another UPDATE:

After driving from mechanic to mechanic with no joy, I ran it by JiffyLube to do a quick check on all lubes and greases.
Eureka! JiffyLube found the problem in a nanosecond.

The u-joints on the drive-shaft between the front differential and the transfer case are falling apart.

He told me that he can remove that shaft and that I would be able to drive my car for the next couple of days
(yes, I work weekends) until the u-joints arrived and he could do the repair.

Does that sound right? Can I really drive the car without the front prop? Will it damage my car?

I am supposed to bring it back to shop in about an hour. Any quick replies to this one?

:/
 
#9 ·
The UJoints are on the shelf at every NAPA and OReilly's. Both carry the Precision 344 which many members swear by. As far as driving without the front prop... I wouldn;t. Folks have, but it really is not desirable.
 
#13 ·
OK, so just one more question on this topic... I hope.

Do we think I could drive about 40 miles, with front prop removed, without doing any damage?

No more than 40 miles. I really need to do this but don't want to kill the viscous coupling.
Those things are EXPENSIVE. Ouch!
 
#16 ·
Thanks EVERYONE for the assist. You guys nailed it with the front u-joints.
I decided to cancel work this weekend and not drive. I do have to drive it back to shop tomorrow for repairs.
That will total less than 10 miles driving without the prop. It could not be helped.

Now on to the next job...
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top