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Engine Options

1K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  Gilbertd 
#1 ·
Ok so I have a slipped liner in my 95 RRC, SWB, Soft dash, 3.9l, serp belt This is the newest classic I have ever owned, what are my engine replacement options at this point. I am looking to replace just the short block, so do any of the newer engines have the same configuration if I use all the stuff off the 3.9. In other words can I use a 4.0, 4.2, or 4.6 shortblock. When did they cease to be the old nailheads? Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
You'll want to be careful with the 4.6 (and the 4.2 to a lesser extent), as they have thinner walls and are more prone to porosity issues. I just swapped my 3.9 with a used 3.9 that was still in good condition, so I've delayed the tophat project for now. When I checked with AB a few months back, they told me they didn't have any 3.9 short blocks and they told me they have had difficulty finding 3.9s. Robison Service and D&D are good places, and I believe both actually balance and blueprint their engines.
 
#6 ·
Congrats! FYI, my new-to-me used 3.9 now has over 1000 miles, but I had to replace many of the ancillary parts, i.e., water pump, mounts, O2 sensors, etc. In fact, I spent more on all the little parts than the actual long block itself.
 
#7 ·
In short - yes, I've done it...but...

1]: it's bloomin hard (probably easier to just split it)
2]: you'll need an engine crane with a decent height lift, the easiest way is to lengthen the arm on the engine crane, but then of course you lower the capacity so be very careful...i'm not recomending you make home made adjustment to a piece of lifting equipment
3]: you'll need to take the front wheels off and drop the car onto its discs to lower the front - this helps the crane clear the front panel
4]: when its part way out, you'll need help to lift the rear end of the 'box
5]: the gearbox cross member needs to come out
6]: engine hoist chains/straps/ropes need to be very short - I used clutch chains (2 brothers chains) so I could shorten each leg to get the balance about right
7]: the transfer box will drag on the floor - it needs to be smooth - to avoid damge to the casing I used some plywood on the floor - the wood was scrap, but the casing survived un-harmed


alternatively, if you can find the bonnet slam panel from an early model (they bolt on) you can cut yours off (drill out the spot welds) to give you some clearance and then bolt the early one in when you've finished - then it's easy to remove in the future if you need to :wink:
 
#5 ·
Don't think so Eugene - last time I pulled a motor and gearbox (out of a wrecker) I modified the front end with a grinder and even then it was hard to get a steep enough angle on the motor/gearbox to get it out.
 
#9 ·
..without doubt!

mind you, I'd recomend a mate/some mates to help whenever doing an engine out - the beer tastes a lot better at the end of the process :wink:
 
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